Hydroboost brakes from 84 Regal

depending on which unit you by that is true. however you will still be able to stop the car it just wont be easy
 
I disagree, i have had the belt come off on a hydroboost car with no accumulator, felt a lot like trying to stop with a failed powermaster. You dont list core charges on those links, the core on a reman 84 hydroboost will be pretty expensive. You need a powermaster pedal, the firewall bracket and rod off an 84 hydroboost setup, and ideally you would add a booster from an astro van or newer 2500 pickup with an accumulator on it. You can use the master from your current vacuum setup in lieu of the heavy cast iron anvil from the 84 setup. Theres a bunch of write ups here on how to bend the pressure line slightly to fit. The effort of collecting all the parts to cobble this together is WELL worth it as anyone here who has it will confirm!
 
I disagree, i have had the belt come off on a hydroboost car with no accumulator, felt a lot like trying to stop with a failed powermaster. You dont list core charges on those links, the core on a reman 84 hydroboost will be pretty expensive. You need a powermaster pedal, the firewall bracket and rod off an 84 hydroboost setup, and ideally you would add a booster from an astro van or newer 2500 pickup with an accumulator on it. You can use the master from your current vacuum setup in lieu of the heavy cast iron anvil from the 84 setup. Theres a bunch of write ups here on how to bend the pressure line slightly to fit. The effort of collecting all the parts to cobble this together is WELL worth it as anyone here who has it will confirm!


$10 core charge
 
When I did mine it didn't take a change of pedal or pedal bracket. I have 2 Hydroboost units, a stock one without an accumulator and another with one. I didn't like the way the one with the accumulator was mounted in the bracket so I turned it around so I could use stock hoses from an 83/84.
 
I didn't change the pedal when I had vacuum either. I just marked the powerdisaster pedal where the vacuum rod aligned with it, drilled and tapped a hole in the pedal, got a grade 8 bolt that wasn't threaded the whole way and screwed it in, put a locknut on the backside, cut the head off the bolt and drilled a hole for the retaining pin. I don't see why you couldn't do that to a vacuum pedal, I think the only difference is where the rod connects.
 
That is the only difference, some guys may not be comfortable drilling and cutting on a brake pedal and just swap it for a powermaster pedal since theyre pretty plentiful and just bolt on
 
Ghinking of doing this on my 1987 Buick GN, but using a willwood mc that got brand new for 70 bucks part number 260-8555 1.00" Bore Aluminum will this work? Also aised from parts listed on here and pm pedal , do I need anything else?
 
If I'm not mistaken, think you need a 1 1/4" bore for HydroBoost to perform at their best.
Maybe someone who has done this conversation can chime in.
 
You need 1.125" (1 1/8") bore. Also a modification kit to adapt the HB unit to the wilwood cylinder so it won't scrape and bind on the snap ring in the master.
 
You need 1.125" (1 1/8") bore. Also a modification kit to adapt the HB unit to the wilwood cylinder so it won't scrape and bind on the snap ring in the master.
Thanks for the response Ill keep my vacuum set up
 
I used this one from Rock Auto - worked well
A-1 CARDONE 101740 {#18010180, 18010558} Reman. w/ Reservoir

MASTER CYLINDER.jpg
 
You need 1.125" (1 1/8") bore. Also a modification kit to adapt the HB unit to the wilwood cylinder so it won't scrape and bind on the snap ring in the master.

Has any one used the Baer 1.125" (1 1/8" bore) Remaster Master Cylinder in a HydroBoost Conversion?
Just curious?
Wondering if it's shorter overall length vs the Wilwood?
Looks like a nice unit....any comments?

thx
 
Has any one used the Baer 1.125" (1 1/8" bore) Remaster Master Cylinder in a HydroBoost Conversion?
Just curious?
Wondering if it's shorter overall length vs the Wilwood?
Looks like a nice unit....any comments?

thx
Going to install one this weekend. Brake lines are different. Unit is 3/8x24 factory lines don't fit. I had some braided lines made we'll see how it goes. The Baer MC is gorgeous and makes my wilwood look like caca
 
Going to install one this weekend. Brake lines are different. Unit is 3/8x24 factory lines don't fit. I had some braided lines made we'll see how it goes. The Baer MC is gorgeous and makes my wilwood look like caca


I'd be very interested to see the finished install and your thoughts about this piece.
 
B2C267BD-1BC6-4824-AAEA-B931A4E30001.jpeg
How about about using a hydroboost from a 79 cutlass Diesel with the matching booster? Comes with the accumulator, the right slant for mounting to the fire wall and the matching master cylinder doesn’t have the downward slope that our cars master cylinders have. I’ve been waiting for my power master to show me signs of going out so I can do the swap but it just keeps working I don’t know how it’s the ugliest one I’ve ever seen!!

This is the best picture I could find online.
 
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