Wilwood rear brakes & C-clip elmin on a stock housing question

ttypewhite

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 1, 2001
I have a set of Wilwood rear dics brakes that I want to put on the car. I am in the process of gathering all my parts together to do the front/back and Master Cylinder. I have pretty much everything I need. The problem i am facing is that I bought a set of Wilwoods that came off a Ford 9" rear end and has this bracket.
tn_100_2310.jpg


I still have the stock 10 bolt 8.5" housing in the car with a 30 Spline Eaton carrier, 30 spline Moser axles with C-Clip elim. Question I have is, is there a bracket I can buy to bolt up to my C-clips to retain this setup? Or do I have to buy Ford ends, cut my housing and weld them on to make this work? Obviously I am looking for the easier fix as I don't want to dump a lot of money in a stock housing. Anyone make bracket that will make C-clips work?
 
I've been here before. Wilwood tech wasn't much help for me. I needed a set of 9" brakes for a weird axle offset and they couldn't help me. I ended up figuring it out out on my own from the exploded views on their website.

You'll need to make sure your rotor OD is the same as whatever 10 bolt kit you buy the caliper brackets for. I think most vented drag kits are 11.44 rotors, but some are ~12"

You need to get the 10 bolt axle flange bracket. I'm not sure what people are using for the 10-bolt, becuase wilwood doesn't seem to have a specific part number, but my guess is the 12 bolt kit works maybe. Here are the instructions for the 12 bolt vented kit. http://www.wilwood.com/PDF/DataSheets/ds267.pdf

In the exploded parts view, the caliper brackets are part number 249-5234 and 249-5235. You would need those first. If the brake diameters are diferent the new caliper brackets wont' work, so double check that before ordering.

The next problem will be the brake offset. Your ford 9" are probably 2.375" offset and have spacers in the bracket and special depth rotor hats to accomdate that. I would bolt up the caliper brackets and rotors first and see how far off the calipers are from going on. Most likely you can lengthen or shorten the spacers in the caliper bracket to make up the difference and your good. If you have to shorten them too much you might end up having to buy new hats.

I didn't have as many problems, I had 2.00 offset axles and had a kit for 2.375 offset so I only had to lengthen my spacers by .375". You'll most likely be going the other way, but with the wrong brake hats, who knows how much. If you get far enough along and can't get spacers made locally PM me and I can turn some on my lathe for you.

If you go the way of buying ford 9" ends, you'll need new axles also because the ford bearing arangement is different. I'm not sure you can get a 30 spline axle with for 9" bearings.
 
Thanks for your detailed response, that was very helpful. Here's a pic I have of the rotors
tn_100_2308.jpg

tn_100_2309.jpg
 
You need bracket for a 10 bolt with 12.19 rotors. I have no idea what part number that would be if they make such.
 
I want back and checked. Those bracket part numbers I put above are the right ones for 10/12 bolt with c-clip elims and 12.19 rotors.
 
That's awesome, thank you very much for your help. If I could be of any service to you in the future, please feel free to drop me a line.
 
So here is my walk of shame..... In 2011 I made this post about putting these brakes on the car..... Wow!! What a lazy prick I am. Anyway, I finally forced myself to make it happen. So I stripped down the rear end. Pulled the axles out.



Got the proper brackets for these calipers



Put longer wheel studs in






Slapped it all back together



Problem is, it has kicked my tires out a extra half inch. That's a half inch that I don't have. If I were to drive this car right now the outer fender would come down on my tire. I knew there was a reason I procrastinated for all these years. Question is, how can I gain that half inch back? The bracket for the Wilwood calipers that is between the axle housing and the c-clip eliminator is what is causing me the grief. What would be the easiest way to remedy this?
 
Notch the caliper bracket so that it can slip over the axle tube and bolt it to the back side of the flange. For this to work you would need to be able to remove enough spacer in the caliper bracket to compensate. If the spacers are greater than the width of the caliper bracket plus the axle flange then you can make it work.
 
The simple way to solve the tire rub problem is different rims with less back spacing.

With the caliper bracket between the C- clip elim and the axle housing flange the axle splines may not be fully engaged in the diff. That's something that would need to be checked.
 
Thanks!

But what bracket or coilover is he using that allows that large of a spring? I haven't seen any coilovers for our cars that have that tall of a spring.


They appear to be Afco Coil Overs. Will let Mike chime in on the spring length.
Although the springs don't appear any shorter than my rear QA-1 Coil Overs that use 14" springs
 
C-clip eliminators are not necassary on a rear disk rear end.Go without c-clip eliminators
When I did my Moser 30 splines I went without them.
 
C-clip eliminators are not necassary on a rear disk rear end.Go without c-clip eliminators
When I did my Moser 30 splines I went without them.

Wouldn't this rely on the brake rotor rubbing on the brake pads to keep the axle in place?
 
They appear to be Afco Coil Overs. Will let Mike chime in on the spring length.
Although the springs don't appear any shorter than my rear QA-1 Coil Overs that use 14" springs

Thank you for the input.

I was able to see that they were AFCOs (plus the anodized blue lends itself to think they're AFCOs at first glance) but I didn't realize the rear coilovers had such a large spring.

I guess I thought they were more like the front coilovers that have a much shorter spring than stock. Didn't realize that for the rear they have such a tall spring.
 
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