Transmission cooler lines

Most important part here is how the oil goes thru the external cooler which should be a LPD design. If it is mounted vertical, it has to fill from the bottom up. If mounted horizontal, I mount in such a way as to have a low side. Keep the lines as short as possible. Testing I did back in the early 90's allowed me to create problems in the 200-4R by using different cooling configurations. This info is more related to use of a Lock-up but should be followed for non-lock as well. I will not warranty a trans unless cooler configuration is correct. Photo evidence is sometimes provided. Protect your investment for years to come and get the cooler configuration correct.
Agree with that,not sure what coolers you use personally or what you recommend to your customers but you ought to try the setrab brand,it's what I use on my stuff and my customers cars,pretty much what all the NASCAR boys use and no one is making more heat in their transmissions and rear diffs than those guys
 
The diagram you posted is wrong as it does not fill the cooler from the bottom up. The out of the radiator goes to the bottom of the aux cooler. This is assuming the top line is the return line.

Looking at your pictures and the specs of the cooler you show, the cooler is too small for anything but a stock converter. Look into the Hayden 1679. It is priced right and comes with everything you need to install. In cooler summer climates and a lock-up, a 1678 can be an option.
Hi David,

The info that I posted was from many years ago when I was asking members of installing transmission cooler, and the photo was given on how to install the tranny lines.
My stock transmission also has a stock converter, and the only changes are the following: THE TRANS HAS A HARDENED PUMP STATOR, HI-PRO 10 VANE HI VOLUME PUMP, ALTO HD BAND, *400 INT BOOST VALVE, *570 TV BOOST VALVE, HI-PRO GOVERNOR AND VALVE BODY MODS, FRESH LOCKUP SOLENOID, HD HARDENED DRIVE SHELL.

Looking at the radiator, the transmission line going to the top of the radiator is the return line, and the bottom transmission line feeds into the bottom of the radiator?
 
That is correct and how I recommend.
Now that you saw my sig and the little transmission upgraded parts, do you still think I should replace the transmission cooler with Hayden 1679?

Also, you claimed the photo I posted is wrong, meaning the bottom transmission line is connected to the lower end of the radiator, and the top of the radiator which is the return transmission line is split as one end is connected to the True-Cool LPD transmission cooler, and the other end coming out of the True-Cool Transmission cooler is connected to the other side of the return transmission line.
I did check with Hayden site and their FAQs stated the following:

Q. Should the cooler be installed before or after the radiator?
A. Hayden recommends installing the auxiliary cooler after the radiator to return the coolest fluid directly to the transmission. Installing the cooler before the radiator will still provide additional cooling and may be necessary in some difficult access applications.
 
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So which way is right? The gunzgear guy says it doesn't matter on the cooler?

I spoke to a local trans dude that does a lot of trannys for the local street racers and he said it doesn't matter either. He basically told me that there is no diff in what way you do it.

May I ask why you think one way matters vs another?


Most important part here is how the oil goes thru the external cooler which should be a LPD design. If it is mounted vertical, it has to fill from the bottom up. If mounted horizontal, I mount in such a way as to have a low side. Keep the lines as short as possible. Testing I did back in the early 90's allowed me to create problems in the 200-4R by using different cooling configurations. This info is more related to use of a Lock-up but should be followed for non-lock as well. I will not warranty a trans unless cooler configuration is correct. Photo evidence is sometimes provided. Protect your investment for years to come and get the cooler configuration correct.
 
Now that you saw my sig and the little transmission upgraded parts, do you still think I should replace the transmission cooler with Hayden 1679?

Also, you claimed the photo I posted is wrong, meaning the bottom transmission line is connected to the lower end of the radiator, and the top of the radiator which is the return transmission line is split as one end is connected to the True-Cool LPD transmission cooler, and the other end coming out of the True-Cool Transmission cooler is connected to the other side of the return transmission line.
I did check with Hayden site and their FAQs stated the following:

Q. Should the cooler be installed before or after the radiator?
A. Hayden recommends installing the auxiliary cooler after the radiator to return the coolest fluid directly to the transmission. Installing the cooler before the radiator will still provide additional cooling and may be necessary in some difficult access applications.

The converter creates almost all of the heat in the transmission. All the fluid going thru the cooler is from the converter. So if you have a converter that generates excessive heat, you have to use a cooler that will be adequate to cool the fluid.

The picture shows the aux cooler being filled top to bottom assuming top line is return. It needs to fill bottom up. The 200-4R is very sensitive to the cooler circuit with lock-up function in all my testing. It is also sensitive to tube and fin coolers and extended cooler lines.
 
So which way is right? The gunzgear guy says it doesn't matter on the cooler?

I spoke to a local trans dude that does a lot of trannys for the local street racers and he said it doesn't matter either. He basically told me that there is no diff in what way you do it.

May I ask why you think one way matters vs another?
Read above posts. All my testing says it matters how circuit is done.
 
[QUOTE="David Husek, post: 3760053, member: 23191 The 200-4R is very sensitive to the cooler circuit with lock-up function in all my testing. It is also sensitive to tube and fin coolers and extended cooler lines.[/QUOTE]
How about the size of the line ie; stock vs 6AN?
 
Would this be accurate?
upload_2017-6-16_12-53-14.png
 
Bahahaha all bs their is no black art to these units or the coolers,if you follow the instructions and buy a GOOD COOLER you will be fine i as well as plenty of other good builders around the country have had no problems building these units, you just have to find a compatent trans guy.i personally want to see hard data not just because I said so.
 
The diagram you posted is wrong as it does not fill the cooler from the bottom up. The out of the radiator goes to the bottom of the aux cooler. This is assuming the top line is the return line.

Looking at your pictures and the specs of the cooler you show, the cooler is too small for anything but a stock converter. Look into the Hayden 1679. It is priced right and comes with everything you need to install. In cooler summer climates and a lock-up, a 1678 can be an option.

I appreciate your comments, but do you still think I should use the Hayden 1679 for my following setup:
My stock transmission also has a stock converter, and the only changes are the following: THE TRANS HAS A HARDENED PUMP STATOR, HI-PRO 10 VANE HI VOLUME PUMP, ALTO HD BAND, *400 INT BOOST VALVE, *570 TV BOOST VALVE, HI-PRO GOVERNOR AND VALVE BODY MODS, FRESH LOCKUP SOLENOID, HD HARDENED DRIVE SHELL.
 
I appreciate your comments, but do you still think I should use the Hayden 1679 for my following setup:
My stock transmission also has a stock converter, and the only changes are the following: THE TRANS HAS A HARDENED PUMP STATOR, HI-PRO 10 VANE HI VOLUME PUMP, ALTO HD BAND, *400 INT BOOST VALVE, *570 TV BOOST VALVE, HI-PRO GOVERNOR AND VALVE BODY MODS, FRESH LOCKUP SOLENOID, HD HARDENED DRIVE SHELL.

I run a Hayden 679 trans cooler and I think it's a nice piece at a decent price, plate style as apposed to the tube and fin.
 
I appreciate your comments, but do you still think I should use the Hayden 1679 for my following setup:
My stock transmission also has a stock converter, and the only changes are the following: THE TRANS HAS A HARDENED PUMP STATOR, HI-PRO 10 VANE HI VOLUME PUMP, ALTO HD BAND, *400 INT BOOST VALVE, *570 TV BOOST VALVE, HI-PRO GOVERNOR AND VALVE BODY MODS, FRESH LOCKUP SOLENOID, HD HARDENED DRIVE SHELL.
The converter is all that matters in your setup in relation to cooling. The cooler you have is very similar to the Hayden 1677 which I recommend for stock converter setups. You should be fine with the cooler you have. The 1679 will be too much cooling for a stock converter. If you get a new higher stall converter in the future, at that time look at a cooler change.
 
The converter is all that matters in your setup in relation to cooling. The cooler you have is very similar to the Hayden 1677 which I recommend for stock converter setups. You should be fine with the cooler you have. The 1679 will be too much cooling for a stock converter. If you get a new higher stall converter in the future, at that time look at a cooler change.
Thanks for the info
Maybe next year my wife and I will travel back to Bohemia, NY and if possible I'll give you a visit in you area
Thanks again
 
Not trying to to get into a debate with anyone but I'm building a motor at Richard Clark's right now and doing some clean up on plumbing while I am at it. I asked him for trans coloer clarifiaction and he gave me this diagram showing original routing of GN and GNX coolers. The GNX had an aux cooer added by McLaren and this is what they did. I cannot explain their thniking but bet it was pretty well thought out. Do it how you choose but this is how I plan to go.
 

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As posted above, that isn't the way I would do it. The rad would be first and the aux cooler after rad and before back to the trans. Filling the coolers from the bottom forces the air out of the cooler with the fluid and this helps the cooler function properly. If it is full of air it won't be cooling the fluid.
 
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