The PowerMaster Bleeding Procedure

[wiseman]

Okay.......I am disgusted and exhausted of this problem with my p.m. Again. This is my second new out the box rebuilt unit. 5 miles max on the units. I followed the bleeding procedures (bench and in car bleeding) to the T (it took me hours) and I used the vacuum method. The motor would turn off 7 to 15 secs every time, but my brakes pedal were really soft, almost to the floor but "no" brake light would come on.

So, I wasn't happy at all with the spongy brakes, so I re-bleed the brakes using the help of wife's foot pumping while I opened the stems (3 bleeds per wheel). The left front must have had alot of air in it, they fluid shot out on the 3rd bleed. (may be from the new proportional valve) Then, I "pumped up" / repressurized the acc. And cranked the car, and like magic the brakes were NICE and Firm. Went on a quick ride, they worked like charm. But now my brake light comes on and the motor constantly runs. This is the EXACT same thing the 1st one did after I manually bled them. Any thoughts?

 

[zeus87gn]

I have a post in the tech section. I may have ran the p/s dry(it was really low the other day) I refilled and pumped down the acc. then turned key on. runs for like 17 seconds. The more i pump the acc down like over 20 pumps the longer the motor runs. the motor never turns back on after its pumped up with key on. I did have some frothy fluid on pump down but after doing that a dozen times it seems to be gone. I still have a soft pedal and brake light comes on for a second and the motor runs for a few seconds on every brake pedal application.

I'll bet you have air in somewhere in the remainder of your system
You may even need to go as far as bench bleeding (on the car tho) the master cylinder portion of the P/M

 

[zeus87gn]

This may be a crazy question, but I just want to be sure....when filling the power master bowl, is the large compartment (with the sump port and accumulator port (inner side towards passenger side)) supposed to be filled also? I don't see a fluid level bar.....

The ps of the fluid bowl whould only be about 1/2 full when the accumulator is pumped up
When the acc is pumped down, that side of the bowl will fill with fluid out of the acc.

 

[zeus87gn]

Okay.......I am disgusted and exhausted of this problem with my p.m. Again. This is my second new out the box rebuilt unit. 5 miles max on the units. I followed the bleeding procedures (bench and in car bleeding) to the T (it took me hours) and I used the vacuum method. The motor would turn off 7 to 15 secs every time, but my brakes pedal were really soft, almost to the floor but "no" brake light would come on.

So, I wasn't happy at all with the spongy brakes, so I re-bleed the brakes using the help of wife's foot pumping while I opened the stems (3 bleeds per wheel). The left front must have had alot of air in it, they fluid shot out on the 3rd bleed. (may be from the new proportional valve) Then, I "pumped up" / repressurized the acc. And cranked the car, and like magic the brakes were NICE and Firm. Went on a quick ride, they worked like charm. But now my brake light comes on and the motor constantly runs. This is the EXACT same thing the 1st one did after I manually bled them. Any thoughts?

You're in Houston?
I think it may be easiest to get together on this
PM me and I'll be glad to take a look

 

[jetmech]

I'll bet you have air in somewhere in the remainder of your system
You may even need to go as far as bench bleeding (on the car tho) the master cylinder portion of the P/M

JUST read your next post on the fluid level of the passenger side. with the accumultor pumped down my level will be very full the with the key on it uses almost all of it may a quarter inch of fluid left in the bowl. Im thinking the acc may be bad and using all my fluid.

 

[Art-87TR]

Great tread, but wish I didn't have to post on it. Oh well

Just noticed every time I hit the brakes the Motor runs. (red light does not come on). Turn it off, pump it down (it takes 14 pumps Not 10) - turn it on 14-15 sec. pump stops. Let it sit 5 minutes no cycle. When I opened top after pump dowm very foamy - cleared in bout 3-5 minutes. I did this several times with no change, soon as I hit the brake the motor runs. This is one of the Kirban lifetime units I bought about 5 years ago but literally no miles on it.

 

[zeus87gn]

Sorry for the late response - been busy with the personal life
The PM doesn't like to sit - if you know the vehicle won't be driven for a while pump it down
It sounds like your acc is saturating - this can happen when it sits
The pressure constantly sitting on the bladder and keeping the nitrogen pressurized can kill it
Cycle it some more and the foamy-ness will clear up
Most likely, the acc may be going out