Starting T-Type After LONG Term Storage

[87_TX_T-Type]

Been preoccupied with some other things the last couple of weeks, but managed to pull the timing cover off today to see if the timing gears had been upgraded. It is evident that the engine has been dug into before, and today I found a little more to that.

Timing_Chain

• 87_TX_T-Type
• Mar 15, 2017

Looks like the timing gears and chain were upgraded to a double roller setup.

Quick questions:
1) Cam button still has plenty of tensile strength, should I bother replacing it or anything else while I have it all undone?
2) I took the water pump, timing cover, and cam sensor off in one piece... Is there any special consideration for putting it back on to keep the timing in check?

 

[Lil Truck]

The the cam sensor must be removed before you reinstall the timing cover. Damage to the gears will most likely occure if you don't, the sensor must be reinstalled with the correct timing for the cam. You can find detailed procedures for this on this site and gnttype.org
I have never tried to install the timing cover with the water pump installed, don't know if it presents any problem ?
Cam button should be fine just check for excessive wear on the timing cover ? Post a photo.

 

[87_TX_T-Type]

The the cam sensor must be removed before you reinstall the timing cover.
Cam button should be fine just check for excessive wear on the timing cover ? Post a photo.

Inside cover looks fine where the cam button sits. Cam gear has a consistent mating spot that is shiny. Not sure if this is normal or not. If not, I have at least one backup cam gear/sensor.

Inside_TChain_Cover

• 87_TX_T-Type
• Mar 16, 2017

Did encounter one little snag...
I can't seem to get the oil filter housing/pump off of the timing chain cover. I've removed the four 3/8" bolts, but no luck. Should I just leave the housing/pump on, and instead remove the large supply lines on each side?

 

[Lil Truck]

Inside cover looks fine where the cam button sits. Cam gear has a consistent mating spot that is shiny. Not sure if this is normal or not. If not, I have at least one backup cam gear/sensor.

Inside_TChain_Cover

• 87_TX_T-Type
• Mar 16, 2017

Did encounter one little snag...
I can't seem to get the oil filter housing/pump off of the timing chain cover. I've removed the four 3/8" bolts, but no luck. Should I just leave the housing/pump on, and instead remove the large supply lines on each side?

The wear Mark is normal on the gear, you need to check for excessive shaft play on the cam sensor. It has a spring washer and it should remain in contact with the gear and flat washer when you pull it downward. If there is a visible air gap a shim washer should be added to the flat shim washer that is already installed. Or you can use on of the others you have. It looks good from the photo along with the rest of the cover.

The water pump shouldn't give you a problem, but check it for smooth operation and no signs of leakage they are cheap and easy to replace at this point!

Do you need to remove the oil cooler or pump for any reason? I would leave them alone unless there was a problem? The threaded center shaft unscrews to remove the oil cooler adapter if you need to remove it.

 

[Lil Truck]

Just remove the bolt holding the cam sensor in and pull it out, there is an O ring on the shaft that might have some resistance when you pull it out. Rotate it a little and it should pull free.

 

[87_TX_T-Type]

Do you need to remove the oil cooler or pump for any reason? I would leave them alone unless there was a problem? The threaded center shaft unscrews to remove the oil cooler adapter if you need to remove it.

I'm probably not using the right nomenclature, so maybe this will help. This is the timing chain cover still attached... I'm trying to remove the area in yellow (oil cooler adapter + filter housing?), so I can pull the timing cover/water pump out completely to clean it.

Filter_Housing

• 87_TX_T-Type
• Mar 17, 2017

So I have two choices:
1) Disconnect the hoses marked in red and leave it attached to the timing cover, or
2) Remove the four 3/8th bolts holding it to the cover.

I've tried #2, but it still does not want to release.

 

[earlbrown]

There's 6 bolts that hold the oil filter adapter to the timing cover. Two hare hidden inside the filter cavity area. Take note that one of them is longer than the other.

Remove the filter, then remove the big nut in the center that the filter threads onto. Then the sammich adapter will come off. When that's out of the way you can get to the last two hidden bolts that hold the filter adapter to the timing cover.

While the cover is off, do the oiling mods I wrote up. Make sure to get a thicker O-ring for the sammich adapter, and I recommed you get a biggie adapter from RJC Racing to run a larger (and cheaper) oil filter for less pressure drop. If you don't want to run a biggie kit, get a filter for a 99 S-10 instead. It screws right on, but it's longer so has more filter media.

On the cam button (when you get the cover off) replace it with a cam button from a 95 Buick Park Ave. It has a torrington bearing on the front instead of the hard plastic original.

You'll also want to drop the oil pan after you get the cover off so you can pull the teeth out of the pickup you're going to notice you're missing. Get a new Melling oil pickup too since it doesn't have a trap door.

 

[Lil Truck]

Earls correct on the filter block removal, but he missed your other posts and photos. The site was messed up this morning...possibly why?

You already have the cam button he is talking about,timing chain replaced, and done the oil pan inspection.
All is good, your on the right track!

 

[87_TX_T-Type]

There's 6 bolts that hold the oil filter adapter to the timing cover. Two hare hidden inside the filter cavity area. Take note that one of them is longer than the other.

Remove the filter, then remove the big nut in the center that the filter threads onto. Then the sammich adapter will come off. When that's out of the way you can get to the last two hidden bolts that hold the filter adapter to the timing cover.
While the cover is off, do the oiling mods I wrote up.

Ahhh, that makes sense... when looking at the adapter there are a couple of places that look as if they were cast to receive a bolt - yet no bolt. So the bolts are on the inside of the housing. I should have figured that one out. Thanks. I'll check out the oiling mods too. As far as the timing chain, it was already upgraded to a double roller. This was more of an inspection and cleaning endeavor, so luckily no teeth to pick up.

 

[earlbrown]

I wouldn't say the double roller was an upgrade.


Just make sure not to use a tentioner of the outside of the the chain isn't smooth.

 

[87_TX_T-Type]

I wouldn't say the double roller was an upgrade.

So... a single chain with tensioner and stock plastic gears is better???

 

[Shawn N]

Lets just say the stock timing stuff won't take out the timing cover out when it breaks.

 

[earlbrown]

So... a single chain with tensioner and stock plastic gears is better???

They have a bad rap because they break every 30 years or 100,000+ miles. Whichever comes first.

They also allow for a tentioner, don't mess with the knock sensor, and won't take out the timing cover when they fail.

If you've read my 'how to' on building an oil pump, the reason I did that is because a non-stock timing set took out my gear pocket when it failed. I went back to a stock 'POS' set and suddenly my magnetic drain plug stopped growing afros.

 

[Linewalker]

They have a bad rap because they break every 30 years or 100,000+ miles. Whichever comes first.

They also allow for a tentioner, don't mess with the knock sensor, and won't take out the timing cover when they fail.

If you've read my 'how to' on building an oil pump, the reason I did that is because a non-stock timing set took out my gear pocket when it failed. I went back to a stock 'POS' set and suddenly my magnetic drain plug stopped growing afros.

Lmao on "stopped growing afros".

 

[t-typinator]

How is the project coming along, Any progress ?

 

[87_TX_T-Type]

Slow, but good. Since I pulled the heads and the timing cover I decided to strip, clean, and paint every part that I've pulled off the car. Very very tedious work. That's finished, so now it's just cleaning up the engine bay to match.

Hopefully I can start putting it all back together this week.

 

[87_TX_T-Type]

Quick question... while the engine bay is clean and clear...

I plan to "top off" the grease in the joints. Is there a weep hole on these joints? I don't want to blow out the boots.

 

[Lil Truck]

Quick question... while the engine bay is clean and clear...

I plan to "top off" the grease in the joints. Is there a weep hole on these joints? I don't want to blow out the boots.

No wep hole, you will hear a light crackle sound or pop, that's when to stop. It may pop the boot up but you can push it back down no damage will occure. Wipe off the excess Greese.

 

[87_TX_T-Type]

Making progress slowly but surely... Here's the engine bay about 3-4 weeks ago after cleaning and some painting.

Stripped

• 87_TX_T-Type
• May 19, 2017

... And here we are today...

Today

• 87_TX_T-Type
• May 19, 2017

However, I'm having trouble re-installing the downpipe.

I originally removed it with the cat still attached from under the car to be painted. No real issue. However, I cannot get the sucker snaked back into the engine bay now. I also can't remove the cat from the downpipe since there is crimp/rib where the pipe connects. I removed (again) the AC shield, x-pipe, and passenger valve cover, and exhaust shield under the car to give myself a little more room, but no luck.

So should I keep trying, or take it to a muffler shop to pull/cut off the cat and snake the downpipe in from the top?

 

[turbo87adam]

Have you tried heating up the the down pipe to pull it apart?