Setting up a stage2 dry sump system

I read from the older threads that quite a few guys are using Peterson dry sumps. Could anybody throw a photo of peterson pump mounted on the buick engine?
 
dry sump pumps

I have a complete busch stage engine[ ruggles built] it has a 3 stage peterson pump mounted along with cogged belt for pump and another cogged belt for water pump, it has a V pulley for the alternator, i dont have the alt,
the cyl, was oiled down and stored for 10 or so years, it supposed to get warm this weekend and i may take few pictures and try to post them,
later oc,
 
Same as my drysump setup -came off a busch weiner motor. is it a waste or too much trouble to run one of these on a mostly street driven car?
 
One issue with using a stock cam sensor and no oil pump, is that the cam gear tries to PULL the cam sensor into the engine and will cup/warp the interruptor cup, and shear the small screw holding it to the shaft. We solved this problem by machining the top of the cam sensor for a torrington bearing and machining a billet interruptor "cup", then welding it to the shaft. Alot of work to make a stock sensor do the job. After killing 4-5 stock sensors we had to come up with something. I have one I can take pictures of and post if needed.
 
One issue with using a stock cam sensor and no oil pump, is that the cam gear tries to PULL the cam sensor into the engine and will cup/warp the interruptor cup, and shear the small screw holding it to the shaft. We solved this problem by machining the top of the cam sensor for a torrington bearing and machining a billet interruptor "cup", then welding it to the shaft. Alot of work to make a stock sensor do the job. After killing 4-5 stock sensors we had to come up with something. I have one I can take pictures of and post if needed.
The cam sensor drive bottoms out on the oil pump drive shaft?

I always thought that normal driving of the cam sensor loaded the shaft upwards.
 
One issue with using a stock cam sensor and no oil pump, is that the cam gear tries to PULL the cam sensor into the engine and will cup/warp the interruptor cup, and shear the small screw holding it to the shaft. We solved this problem by machining the top of the cam sensor for a torrington bearing and machining a billet interruptor "cup", then welding it to the shaft. Alot of work to make a stock sensor do the job. After killing 4-5 stock sensors we had to come up with something. I have one I can take pictures of and post if needed.

That's odd, the sensor needs no torque to move, so it should not have that issue. Are you sure that the gears meshed correctly without binding and cam movement(front to back) was in spec?
Also, was the sensor gear bronze, so it could eat itself to right tolerance?

One possible solution would be to drill one hole to cam sprocket and one in front cover and use FWD 3800 style cam sync. (magnet is clipped to cam sprocket hole and pickup is bolted to front cover)?
 
One issue with using a stock cam sensor and no oil pump, is that the cam gear tries to PULL the cam sensor into the engine and will cup/warp the interruptor cup, and shear the small screw holding it to the shaft. We solved this problem by machining the top of the cam sensor for a torrington bearing and machining a billet interruptor "cup", then welding it to the shaft. Alot of work to make a stock sensor do the job. After killing 4-5 stock sensors we had to come up with something. I have one I can take pictures of and post if needed.

Can you please post pics!!

Thanks
Prasad
 
I'm sure the guy I sold the brand new RPE 6109 $6000. Short block for $3800. Wants to complain too! It ran low 10s right out of the box and still running strong 3 years later!
 
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