Sitting here a little down in the dumps [watching the news] and a little bored... 
So..... Just Wondered what your procedure was with your TR for how you do your burnout? I believe there is a certain "good" way of doing this to try not to heat up the back brakes and kill their holding power while staging.
That being said here's what I do
Put my car in D [3rd gear] and creep up so that my back slicks are smack in the water puddle. Very LIGHTLY apply the brakes.. just enuf to stop the car, then apply the gas lightly and get off the brakes at the same time allowing the tires to sit there and spin lightly in the water puddle [3 or 4 rotations] and then roll ahead a couple feet onto the dry pavement with your slicks all wet then stop the car.
Then I take my foot off the brakes, and re apply them fairly soft.. but enuf to hold the car from rolling ahead. Now with the brakes on... I FLOOR THE GAS and hold the car with the brakes BUT JUST until I feel the tires are STARTING to spin good, then I completely let go of the brakes with the still gas floored.... and my car will roll out a few feet and is well into 3rd gear with the speedo bouncing like crazy [buried LOL], some minor smoke coming of the ET Drags, then I let off and stop the car... Creep ahead.. pre stage.. stage etc...
I have found the above method has always worked AWESOME on my personal car.. I think maybey b/c I am not sitting there in one spot brake torquing... at the same time fighting the rear shoes which are trying to hold the rears from spinning... creating a bunch of heat in the brakes..
In fact in July 2000 I had stock front & rear brakes, with the pass side rear wheel clylinder leaking slightly.. I used this burnout method all day and on my best pass that day, I was able to hold 12 PSI on the launch with my 26X10 slicks and a REd Stripe T/C and cut a 1.62 short...
This year with the new S-10 rear wheel cyls, soft shoes, and the same above burnout technique but the STOCK D5 convertor... I was able to easily hold 15 PSI on every launch, but with the brake pedal mashed I held 18-19 PSI on my last launch.. (but only cut a 1.68 60' - stock convertor really seemed to hurt my personal car compared to the red stripe).
Just wondered what some of you guys are doing as far as burnouts with the beefed up back brakes, but no line lock...??
Is there a better way I could do this?
Thanks!
So..... Just Wondered what your procedure was with your TR for how you do your burnout? I believe there is a certain "good" way of doing this to try not to heat up the back brakes and kill their holding power while staging.
That being said here's what I do
Put my car in D [3rd gear] and creep up so that my back slicks are smack in the water puddle. Very LIGHTLY apply the brakes.. just enuf to stop the car, then apply the gas lightly and get off the brakes at the same time allowing the tires to sit there and spin lightly in the water puddle [3 or 4 rotations] and then roll ahead a couple feet onto the dry pavement with your slicks all wet then stop the car.
Then I take my foot off the brakes, and re apply them fairly soft.. but enuf to hold the car from rolling ahead. Now with the brakes on... I FLOOR THE GAS and hold the car with the brakes BUT JUST until I feel the tires are STARTING to spin good, then I completely let go of the brakes with the still gas floored.... and my car will roll out a few feet and is well into 3rd gear with the speedo bouncing like crazy [buried LOL], some minor smoke coming of the ET Drags, then I let off and stop the car... Creep ahead.. pre stage.. stage etc...
I have found the above method has always worked AWESOME on my personal car.. I think maybey b/c I am not sitting there in one spot brake torquing... at the same time fighting the rear shoes which are trying to hold the rears from spinning... creating a bunch of heat in the brakes..
In fact in July 2000 I had stock front & rear brakes, with the pass side rear wheel clylinder leaking slightly.. I used this burnout method all day and on my best pass that day, I was able to hold 12 PSI on the launch with my 26X10 slicks and a REd Stripe T/C and cut a 1.62 short...
This year with the new S-10 rear wheel cyls, soft shoes, and the same above burnout technique but the STOCK D5 convertor...
I was able to easily hold 15 PSI on every launch, but with the brake pedal mashed I held 18-19 PSI on my last launch.. (but only cut a 1.68 60' - stock convertor really seemed to hurt my personal car compared to the red stripe).Just wondered what some of you guys are doing as far as burnouts with the beefed up back brakes, but no line lock...??
Is there a better way I could do this?
Thanks!
