Relocating Vacuum Lines. Deleting Vacuum Block ? Pros ad Cons?

[Tim Cucci]

I would like to delete the vacuum block and clutter from the front side of the intake and refurbish my vacuum lines. While researching I see where some people are drilling and tapping the rear of the lower intake and rerouting with soft vacuum lines to the appropriate components. Is there any downside to doing this mod? I have previously deleted the EGR and have the correct chip. In my case I would relocate the PCV Hose, FP Hose, Boost Hose, Canister Hose. and Cruise Control / HVAC. All five would be located on the back of the intake. Would these components function correctly? Any Air Flow or Vacuum downsides? The intake is presently removed from the car.

 

[No disintegrations]

if you don't like the looks of it, go for it. no downside.

 

[ravege]

This is something I would like to do as well. My question would be, Buick has two vacuum holes, one before the throttle blade, one after (can't recall which lines use which hole) - what was their thinking? Obviously people are getting their cars to run fine with all the vac lines coming after the throttle blade.

 

[~JM~]

How about this: http://www.turbobuick.com/threads/c...throttle-body-vacuum-block-delete-kit.446889/

Looks pretty slick!

 

[V6sleeper]

Yup call Don Cruz, he has a great kit all the work is done I just got one from him... or do it the old school way and tap the plenum with push loc's

 

[Boston GN]

Just installed Cruz's kit. It's much nicer than all those rubber lines

 

[fast86gn]

Just installed Cruz's kit. It's much nicer than all those rubber lines

Post a pic please

 

[Tim Cucci]

WOW! This delete seems like this would be one of the general TR owners mods such as a KN, Fuel Pump, etc. I know my lines had to be leaking and the block is brittle. All of it needs replacing so I'll just do a mod. Not sure if I want to come off the hip for the Spacer Mod yet. The CRUZ Kit is really nice. I can fabricate the block myself but not the spacer. I may just drill and tap the back of the intake. That would be easy for me to do while I have the engine apart. Glad to know there are no cons to this mod.

 

[fast86gn]

I run the billet block that has the extra nipple for vac breaks. Did away with the plastic one long ago. Th Cruz kit sounds interesting though.

 

[dynoman]

I found this set-up , looks nice !

 

[JAMCAR223]

That is REALLY nice looking. Great job!! Is the flat plate welded, and then drilled / tapped all the way though the intake OR was a "window" cut in the intake, and then the plate was welded to it??

 

[dynoman]

It's not mine , I found it with a search on this site . I would think that the plate was drilled & tapped before being welded to a window cut out of the manifold .

 

[Tim Cucci]

Nice ! What size pipe thread do you think the smaller holes are tapped for ?? I was debating on tapping the 4 small holes to 1/8 pipe for the vacuum lines and 1/4" pipe for the PCV ?

 

[Boston GN]

Post a pic please

I only have a few, but here they are:

 

[earlbrown]

I'm guessing you found my mods in the 'how-to' section with the brass barbed fittings?

I'm happy with the relocation. I had a billet vac block because the factory block warped and I could not get it to seal... Turns out the billet block leaked where all the nipples were pushed in. Another upside is I no longer have a block rubbing my discontinued hood liner.

This is something I would like to do as well. My question would be, Buick has two vacuum holes, one before the throttle blade, one after (can't recall which lines use which hole)

They're both behind the blade. The only see manifold pressure. If there was a hole in front of the blade it would see hundreds of PSIs during a WOT throttle chop.

 

[RmvBfrFlght]

This is something I would like to do as well. My question would be, Buick has two vacuum holes, one before the throttle blade, one after (can't recall which lines use which hole) - what was their thinking? Obviously people are getting their cars to run fine with all the vac lines coming after the throttle blade.

The hole/port that is in front of the throttle blade is for the CCP system (canister/evaporation emissions control). This way there is no vacuum applied to the canister unless the throttle is open. That port is also referred to as "ported vacuum." There is a check valve inline to the canister to prevent boost from being applied to it.

The hole/port past the throttle blade is for full time vacuum such as used by the FPR.

RemoveBeforeFlight

 

[Tim Cucci]

Going to cap the barbs for EGR, PCV with rubber caps. Only going to use Fuel Pressure, Boost, and Cruise for now. Throttle Body and EGR are both plugged under the home made delete covers. Very simple to do and cost about 10 bucks. Also put a small filter on the fuel tank vent, removed the canister and plugged the vacuum at the canister solenoid. Also got a filter to go direct to the PCV valve.

 

[earlbrown]

Nice to see someone else using my method to block off the EGR ports with pipe plugs. Did you have access to a mill or do it by hand?



On your rear ports, you might want to mock up the lines with the coil pack bracket in place. I used 90s on mine and felt sure it would work best... Turns out It would have been much nicer (and easier) if I'd just stuck with straight barbed fittings.

 

[Tim Cucci]

Did it all by hand. I wish I had a mill. I did mock it all up with the fuel rail and coil pack and made a couple of changes. I actually used a 90 barb for the FPR and PCV but ended up blocking the PCV 90 with a vacuum cap. Used the straight barbs for cruise, boost and hvac. I put a small breather right on top of the PCV and under the fuel rail. I'll post a finished photo later this morning when I get back out to the shop.
I see the back of the intake as being the easiest, simple, cleanest, and cheapest way to relocate the vacuum lines as long as the intake is removed. Also blocking EGR and TB with MPT plugs.
How To Section! Great Idea!
Thanks Earl.

 

[ttypewhite]

My lines are all run off of the 1" intake spacer. Got rid of any rubber lines under the hood and went with all teflon lines and Racetronix AN fittings. I made up my own version of the PCV with teflon lines and a Racetronix check valve.