Recent track experience

[Nigel]

I have been able to spend a lot of time at the track lately, not to give anybody track envy, but the tack is 10 miles from my house. Yesterday I got in on a track rental thanks to a heads up from HighMileage. Track rental is like being a kid on Christmas morning.

I left everything the same from the previous track runs, and with the temperature change and possibly the car being hotter also for the first run, I got a little more knock then I like to see. 4.7 degrees at the 1-2 shift. And a few blips down the track between .5 and 2. Added fuel, and cut it way down. Added a little more and turned alky to 6.5 and cut it to I think one blip of .5 at 95. (still need to get a powerlogger).

Best run:
1.729
7.960@85.37
12.585@105.77

Without better breaks or airbag or …, I don’t think I can cut a better 60ft.
I also don’t think I can get too much more mph without some work.

I am interested in possibly porting everything, just to see what it may net. I’ve seen the sticky on porting the stock stuff and may go that route.
Does anybody think porting the stock heads will net anything with the stock setup? Cracking the factory head gaskets may not be worth it though. (could be a winter project, I would like to pull the engine anyway and replace all of the gaskets just to get rid of as much oil seepage as possible and make it look nice)

I know the stock downpipe is a big restriction with bigger turbos, any real value with the stock turbo?

I am leaning towards just cleaning up and optimizing all of the factory stuff, not because I’m cheap, just for the fun of it.

Also, is anybody running the stage 1 extreme automatics transmission with their replacement valve body? Thinking of putting one of these in over the winter. I like it because no core required, put the stocker on the shelf, swap in the new one?

 

[Lil Truck]

All the mods you mention will be noticeable with a larger turbo. Not sure you will see a lot more with the stock turbo.
If your not going to change the turbo, transmission, converter stall and brakes may get you the best gain. I have pulled a 1.54 60' on stock suspension with drag shocks only, TSA car.

Good times with the stock turbo!

 

[Lil Truck]

http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/th...pgraded-to-ta61-and-009s.232579/#post-1698971

This post has some great numbers with a stock turbo, block & trans but intake and exhaust are free flowing.

 

[Nigel]

Thanks, that guy was getting a lot out of his combo. I think I may have to change the tranny, getting a slide into second, not too bad, but not firm. I will likely do some basic brake upgrades out back, box the lowers, and an airbag, probably for next year, along with some porting. The 1.54 60, was that off the foot brake?

 

[Lil Truck]

Yes, foot brake and 9.5 PTC converter. The rest of the trans is stock with a shift kit and billet servo. It had a mild slip before the mods and converter was added.

 

[Nigel]

Probably last update for this year.
I did some mild porting and matching of the compressor housing. Ported the opening of the doghouse. Got rid of the factory intake hose and hard piped to the stock elbow. Good Weather.

1st Run - 1.6 retard on the 1-2 shift
1.636
7.777@87.29
12.361@106.47

2nd Run – 0 retard – Spun a little
1.806
8.012@86.74
12.618@107.28

A little porting and replacing the soft factory intake hose helped.

 

[Lil Truck]

Good work!
Keep going, just a few tenths to the 11s !

 

[Razor]

Probably last update for this year.
I did some mild porting and matching of the compressor housing. Ported the opening of the doghouse. Got rid of the factory intake hose and hard piped to the stock elbow. Good Weather.

1st Run - 1.6 retard on the 1-2 shift
1.636
7.777@87.29
12.361@106.47

2nd Run – 0 retard – Spun a little
1.806
8.012@86.74
12.618@107.28

A little porting and replacing the soft factory intake hose helped.

Are you locking the converter? The 21 mph pickup is normal on the back end of the track.

 

[Nigel]

Razor, the chip is programmed to the lock the converter at WOT, have it set to lock at 60 mph, I will have to get the power logger to confirm that it is doing what it is programmed to do. So I think it is locking.

Lil Truck, Thanks, 11 sec time slip would be great, will need some serious stratagy with the stock stuff.

I am open to being a little creative on how to get an 11 sec timeslip while keeping the stock hardware, I would also like to do it on 93 octane. Once I get to a certain point then I might as well upgrade hardware. I, also in the short term, would like to keep the heads on, just because once they come off why stop there. Looking to keep Pandora's box closed for now. Some items below, thoughts welcomed.

• I have to pull the headers for an exhaust leak, not sure if there is a whole lot to be had in porting headers, depending on the shape they are in maybe replaced. Porting worth it?
• Retard cam timing a few degrees, typically not considered worth the effort, but since I am looking for scraps, may be something?
• Current timing is 24.5 in 1st &2nd, 23 in 3rd, may be a little more there?
• Running AC R43T plugs gapped @ 30, recommendations for improvement?
• Boost is roughly 24 to 25 psi. Will need more spring to run more, but also boost will wind down as RPMs increase with stock turbo, not to much more here I think.
• Air Bag, HR sway bar, ...? Launching well everytime is getting tricky.
• Other ideas?

TIA

 

[Lil Truck]

Razor, the chip is programmed to the lock the converter at WOT, have it set to lock at 60 mph, I will have to get the power logger to confirm that it is doing what it is programmed to do. So I think it is locking.

Lil Truck, Thanks, 11 sec time slip would be great, will need some serious stratagy with the stock stuff.

I am open to being a little creative on how to get an 11 sec timeslip while keeping the stock hardware, I would also like to do it on 93 octane. Once I get to a certain point then I might as well upgrade hardware. I, also in the short term, would like to keep the heads on, just because once they come off why stop there. Looking to keep Pandora's box closed for now. Some items below, thoughts welcomed.

• I have to pull the headers for an exhaust leak, not sure if there is a whole lot to be had in porting headers, depending on the shape they are in maybe replaced. Porting worth it?
• Retard cam timing a few degrees, typically not considered worth the effort, but since I am looking for scraps, may be something?
• Current timing is 24.5 in 1st &2nd, 23 in 3rd, may be a little more there?
• Running AC R43T plugs gapped @ 30, recommendations for improvement?
• Boost is roughly 24 to 25 psi. Will need more spring to run more, but also boost will wind down as RPMs increase with stock turbo, not to much more here I think.
• Air Bag, HR sway bar, ...? Launching well everytime is getting tricky.
• Other ideas?

TIA

93&Alky should be no problem, not sure how far on just 93?

I run mid 11s on 91&alky, less timing 23/20 boost 24-26

The limits of the stock turbo is where you attention should be, if its just pushing hotter air more boost will probably not give you any gain.

I have run Autolite 23s at .020 gap @ 26-28 lbs

Not sure what the suspension mods will do I still run stock suspension with drag shocks.

How is the tranny holding up?

Any change on the stock cam timing will most likely give up what you gain on the other end?

 

[Nigel]

Looking at tranny rebuild over the winter so long as job outlook stays good, but overall not too bad, just slides a little into 2nd.

 

[Nigel]

Update to the experiment.
I ended up with a best time below with the stock turbo:
1.639
7.674@87.04
12.229@107.38
This was with 22 to 21 psi boost. 24 degrees 1st and 2nd, 20 degrees in 3rd programed timing.
The convertor was not locking even though it was programed to lock.
Last winter I pulled the engine to clean up and fix oil leaks. Decided to pull the heads(I know poor judgment) and cleaned them up, port matched the intake. That is where the extra came from to get the 12.2s. I retarded the stock cam 4 degrees(don't know if that is part of what helped or not but thought I would give it a try). I also had a series of mistakes, did use any seal tabs and used glycol, ended up having a head bolt leak coolant into the crankcase. So after my track time I discovered the leak. I ended up pulling the engine again to check everything, two weeks after putting it back in. The engine did not really incur any damage other than things getting gunked up. I ended up replacing the rod bearings, but overall everything looked really good, and using plasti-gauge all bearings checked in spec. Thrust was also in spec using a dial indicator. Honed the cylinders and replaced the rings. Dave Husek rebuilt the trans and provided his 26-2800 9.5in torque convertor, a set or stock ported heads and a 206 roller. Dave had a fresh Bison TE-44 that I picked up. Did not want to reuse the stock turbo after running glycol thru it. Got it back on the road early-mid September.
So now I essentially have a 100k short block with new rings and rod bearings, stock ported heads, a 206 roller, and a TE-44 with a built trans and 26-2800 stall convertor. I need new injectors and a taller tire. Car currently runs 11.8x @ 112, trapping at 5500 rpm. 22psi with 21/19 for timing. 235/60-15 ET Streets.

 

[Lil Truck]

Update to the experiment.
I ended up with a best time below with the stock turbo:
1.639
7.674@87.04
12.229@107.38
This was with 22 to 21 psi boost. 24 degrees 1st and 2nd, 20 degrees in 3rd programed timing.
The convertor was not locking even though it was programed to lock.
Last winter I pulled the engine to clean up and fix oil leaks. Decided to pull the heads(I know poor judgment) and cleaned them up, port matched the intake. That is where the extra came from to get the 12.2s. I retarded the stock cam 4 degrees(don't know if that is part of what helped or not but thought I would give it a try). I also had a series of mistakes, did use any seal tabs and used glycol, ended up having a head bolt leak coolant into the crankcase. So after my track time I discovered the leak. I ended up pulling the engine again to check everything, two weeks after putting it back in. The engine did not really incur any damage other than things getting gunked up. I ended up replacing the rod bearings, but overall everything looked really good, and using plasti-gauge all bearings checked in spec. Thrust was also in spec using a dial indicator. Honed the cylinders and replaced the rings. Dave Husek rebuilt the trans and provided his 26-2800 9.5in torque convertor, a set or stock ported heads and a 206 roller. Dave had a fresh Bison TE-44 that I picked up. Did not want to reuse the stock turbo after running glycol thru it. Got it back on the road early-mid September.
So now I essentially have a 100k short block with new rings and rod bearings, stock ported heads, a 206 roller, and a TE-44 with a built trans and 26-2800 stall convertor. I need new injectors and a taller tire. Car currently runs 11.8x @ 112, trapping at 5500 rpm. 22psi with 21/19 for timing. 235/60-15 ET Streets.

A few more pounds of boost and a taller tire you will be in the low 11s !!!

 

[we4Mateo]

Get those rpms down with a taller tire like others said. Stockish setups like this make huge torque over horsepower. I lock my tc on my 120mph runs and rpm never goes over 4900. It even drops below 4k when I hit it and it pulls like a freight train.

 

[Nigel]

Thanks for the replies guys. The numbers your both running is definitely getting it.
I'll have to check with Dave on locking his convertor, I don't know that it is up for that. My memory is not what it used to be, but I think he said don't lock it, I'll check.
Are you guys running any safety equipment? I don't think the local track (LVD) would let me get away with breaking 11.50.
After my FUBAR this past spring, everything seems to be working well, and it looks like I have room to grow based on what we4Mateo is getting out of his 44. I have to update my sig, but I am still running the 37lb/hr injectors. So other than fine tuning I am done adding boost till I get bigger injectors(Cash flow-hopefully this winter). I am also running Red's XP pump and Casper's volt booster.

 

[we4Mateo]

Different injectors and a good tune should get you there. It's fun going faster once the parts are there and you don't have to buy anything else. It's usually short lived but that one magic weekend is all worth it!

 

[Nigel]

Different injectors and a good tune should get you there. It's fun going faster once the parts are there and you don't have to buy anything else. It's usually short lived but that one magic weekend is all worth it!

For shore.

 

[Nigel]

Update – can’t believe it has been 2 ½ years since my last post on this thread.

I had a bad injector in the #6 hole and bent the gasket, pulled engine in summer 2015. I thought the new converter was too loose, so I put the stocker back in. Replaced the head gaskets with the RJC gaskets, put new 60 lb/hr injectors in. I was able to run an 11.66@113 with the stock converter. I was able to build a ton of boost on the line, roughly 20 lbs, but the car had to roll out a little for the rpms to build and then it really hit. Mid 1.6s was the best 60ft I could muster on 255/60 et streets. The stock converter made it easy to launch other than standing on the break peddle really hard.

Mid-summer 2016, the head gaskets were seeping compression into the coolant. Pulled the engine again - turned out to be #5. Bought a large 9x27 ½ inch thick piece of glass, stripped the engine down, and decked the block with the piece of glass and 220 then 600 grit sand paper. Took a while. The block checked flat with a precision straight edge and feeler gauges prior to decking, but when I started decking the block I put some machinist die on it, and you could see the low spots right off. It was a little low between #5 and the coolant passage. I don’t have surface finish gauges, but when I was done it was smooth and flat. Also did the same to the heads. I installed cometics, took them a part, cleaned, and used hylomar. Sent the 9 ½ converter back to Dave, had rebuilt to his 3021.

After getting it back together, I was able to run an 11.53@114.1 just last week at LVD. Car is now difficult for me to launch because the converter hits pretty hard. Relatively low 0 boost stall at around 2200. It flashes to 4500 really quick, car still shifts around 5100 rpm, crossing the finish close to 5300 rpm. I have 255/60 et streets, and they are getting tortured. I like the look of the smaller tire, but having a tough time figuring out a consistent launch.