Rear brake line !@#%ing pain in the...

[Paladin]

In the Autumn the rear brake line which goes from the driver's side rocker panel to a crossmember above the rear axle blew out above the crossmember. I removed the original line, bent a new one the same as the removed piece, and couldn't get the new piece in place. I've attempted again (the original piece is long gone...) and again hit a problem trying to get the brake line installed. I have it in there, but I need to bend it pretty much 90 degrees towards the back of the car, then 90 degrees down to the point in the crossmember where it screws into the remainder of the brake system.

I'm at the point where I'd like to order a new set of brake lines, say from Inline tube, but I am afraid that I will hit the same stumbling block, and waste a chunk of money ruining another perfectly good brake line trying to get it installed. I'm sure there are plenty of folks in this community who have replaced the brake lines in these cars, so if someone can give me some tips/pointers on how to pull this off, please do as the present situation is driving me mad!

I also think I may need to replace the proportioning valve, cos going by how it should work, the second that line blew out in the rear it should have closed off the rear system...instead if the brake pedal is pressed I blast a nice shot of DOT3 out the rear of the car. Presently I have the line bled and crimped just so I have some brakes if I need to move this car around.

Again, thanks for any advice you all can provide, it is greatly appreciated..

Sam

 

[Greasemonkey]

That seems to be a pretty common occurence. The line blew on my Cutlass, and I've only got it out so far. I did order the lines from Inline tube, and they're nice. I can understand the frustration in trying to get the new one in, as I had to cut the old one out.

 

[Paladin]

I can't believe it has to be this difficult to run a new line to the rear end, I must be doing something wrong, that's the only thing I can figure... Either way the car has no rear brakes right now and that's putting a major damper in my plans.

Nobody has any ideas on this?

 

[bandwidthpolice]

I replaced mine with parts store pieces. It was pretty easy. I used a 60" piece, a 30" piece, two brass couplers and an adapter line from NAPA to go to the proportioning valve. I took the old one out and bent the new one to match. The rear most section was the 60" piece. Maybe I got lucky but after removing the clips that hold the old line on (that was the hardest part, especially the forward most one that also holds the fuel line) I just placed it back in there. If it's bent properly, it should go. I can't see why it wouldn't. I didn't even have the car jacked up much higher than my chest. I don't have any pics but perhaps it's because I used pieces rather than trying to replace it as one unit. Don't get me wrong; I had to mess with it for half a day but it wasn't that bad.

 

[Paladin]

I considered using 2 individual pieces... I think the stocker was 40". I'm not sure if that is even the original bit of line that was there, the car has passed through many owners each doing something to make my job more difficult.

Thanks for the tip though, I'll definitely give that a shot now.

Sam

 

[V6UnderPressure]

Going through the same problem, and will be buying the two sections as stated a couple posts ago. My question is, what size is the line? And why is an adapter fitting needed for the proportioning valve?

 

[Rickracer]

The line size should be 3/16"

Be sure they don't give you compression fittings to connect the lines together. If I might make a suggestion here, you may want to take it to a shop. A good shop will have the equipment and personnel do do this job right, and in much less time than you ever could laying on your back. They will have tubing benders, flaring tools and hopefully someone with experience plumbing brakes. IMHO, if you look at the frustration factor, plus the safety factor, that is one job best left up to a professional.

 

[V6UnderPressure]

Well I went to the local parts store, and bought the 60" line and 30" line with 2 brass couplings and an adapter. I am going to try it and I have a tubing bender (which Im pretty good with). Being that I also got two separate sections, I think I can save myself a bit of a headache. Not to mention, how do I get my car to the shop if I have no brakes!

Scott

 

[V6UnderPressure]

Well I went to the local parts store, and bought the 60" line and 30" line with 2 brass couplings and an adapter. I am going to try it and I have a tubing bender (which Im pretty good with). Being that I also got two separate sections, I think I can save myself a bit of a headache. Not to mention, how do I get my car to the shop if I have no brakes!

Scott

Forgot to mention I paid 16.00 total for everything.

 

[bruce]

I used the PST Stainless Steel Line kit, and on a hoist, it was about a 45 job to replace the lines, and 20 more to bleed it all.

All the lines fit, just right, only one needed to be *unbent*, from having to fit the shipping box.

 

[tom h]

Inline Tube makes rear brake lines in both OEM steel and stainless steel, and they are exact, high quality replacements for stock.

See this thread for more info on replacing rear brake line:
http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=88106

Line can be replaced in one piece, I did it with car on jackstands.
It was tricky, figuring out how to "roll" the new line into place.

I do Not have the OEM crossflow muffler, and my gas tank was out of car at the time, so that gave more working room.