Question about CK shift kit and filter kit and issues I am having

T

ttribejr

Member
Joined
Dec 1, 2015
I bought a shift kit, lock up solenoid and bottom feed filter upgrade from CK, just installed it.

I have contacted CK, but he needs pressure readings to help me. My pressure gauge won't be in until next week and I am trying to get this figured out by this weekend. I am going to double check my install while waiting on my gauge to arrive in the mail.

Trans worked fine before install.

I think I have a pressure problem and I have a theory, but here are the symptoms.

The car acted completely normal from start up / warm up. I put it in reverse, nothing unusual. Back out of my shop and put it in drive, nothing unusual. Idle down my 200 yard driveway and get on the road. If I give it anything over 1/4 throttle it slips. First to second gear, I can't feel the shift. Feels like a CVT transmission. If i go over 1/4 throttle, the RPMs go up by MPH stays the same. I did not attempt any boosted runs, I parked it back in my shop.

This was my first shift kit, but it was easy. The instructions were detailed and everything seem to go together fine.

Question one. The little ball bearing .250 parts that go in specific locations. If one got bumped out of place, would it cause my problem? Specifically the ones on top of the separator plate.

Question two. The new "bottom feed" filter doesn't fit up snug against the valve body. It kind of hangs down and possibly even touches the trans pan. Is this normal and if not, will it cause enough flow restriction to result in my problems? Elaborate if so. I am sure it is seated all the way in the hole and sure there is only one seal installed, etc. Everything else outside of the valvebody looks fine. I took pictures before I tore it down to make sure it all went back the same way.

Question three. The valve body shift-shaft that moves with the gear shifter / S pin. It freely slides back and forth when not connected to the S pin. Does it matter what position it is in when the valve body is bolted up? could it be installed upside down?

Thanks for any help.
 
I can't speak intelligently about the shift kit install since I have never done one.

But...the filter issue brings up an idea. It is possible that the o-ring from the old filter never came out with the old filter when you removed it. If this is the case, it won't allow the new filter to properly "pop" in place. And this would definitely not allow any pressure to build.
 
David Husek said:
Remove what has been done and test for proper operation. If it slipped as you state, a rebuild is most likely in your future.
Click to expand...

Hi Dave.

My Trans and Converter are doing awesome! Thanks for all the help. You da man!
 
How many miles on the trans?
Have you been regularly changing the fluid and filter(annual?10k miles?)
I've never had much luck changing the fluid in a high mile trans. I guess the new fluid "cleans" the insides and ends up with a slipping trans.
Are you sure you got all the "ba//s" back where they are suppose to be. Some times it is hard when you are under there looking up at it.
 
ttribejr said:
Question one. The little ball bearing .250 parts that go in specific locations. If one got bumped out of place, would it cause my problem? Specifically the ones on top of the separator plate.

Question two. The new "bottom feed" filter doesn't fit up snug against the valve body. It kind of hangs down and possibly even touches the trans pan. Is this normal and if not, will it cause enough flow restriction to result in my problems? Elaborate if so. I am sure it is seated all the way in the hole and sure there is only one seal installed, etc. Everything else outside of the valvebody looks fine. I took pictures before I tore it down to make sure it all went back the same way.

Question three. The valve body shift-shaft that moves with the gear shifter / S pin. It freely slides back and forth when not connected to the S pin. Does it matter what position it is in when the valve body is bolted up? could it be installed upside down?

Thanks for any help.
Click to expand...


Question 1, Usually if one of those slip out of place the separator plate won't fit flush and/or the trans will not operate in one or more gears.

Question 2, It could be the pump cavitating but if the filter is up in there then it's more than likely not but check anyways, it's easy and free. Many people use 2 seals anyways.

Question 3, No it doesn't matter, it can only go in one way, aka that S shaft can only go into one spot on that valve.

My questions are, did you install the boost valve from the kit? Was it the .555 valve? Lot of problems with those since a lot of them were machined incorrectly. I just had to drill one out.

You need a pressure gauge, I know you have one coming so when you get some readings report back. I wouldn't drive it until then.
 
I went over my entire install. Everything looked fine. Except the boost valve (next to the filter inlet) is stuck in place and I can not get it out. Not sure of the name exactly but it's what raises line pressure. I have tried tapping on it, pulling out with a magnet etc. I assume this is my problem.

What were you saying about machined wrong? I have left a couple messages with ck about it over the last few days but he hasn't called me back yet.

My trans has 60k miles on it. Car was all stock when I got it except for a TT street chip. Fluid was pretty clean and didn't stink. I just bought this kit to firm up shifts, prolong life, etc.
 
ttribejr said:
I went over my entire install. Everything looked fine. Except the boost valve (next to the filter inlet) is stuck in place and I can not get it out. Not sure of the name exactly but it's what raises line pressure. I have tried tapping on it, pulling out with a magnet etc. I assume this is my problem.
Click to expand...

To get the boost valve out, remove the c-clip that holds it in place. Bolt the trans pan back on (just use several bolts), and add some fluid. Start the engine and rev it up a little.

The boost valve-train should now be in the pan (make sure the trans in in park or neutral before doing this).

RemoveBeforeFlight
 
Could be your problem and definitely is a problem. This is what happenes to a lot of them. Careful tapping on them as you can wedge them in even further. You can try bolting the pan back on with out the clip in place and add fluid and try running it. Leave it at idle and yank on the TV cable and see if you hear it pop out. It may come out, but it might not. If it doesn't you'll have to drill it out. If it gets to that point let us know, I can tell you how to go about it without messing anything else up since I was just in the same boat.

Some....a lot it seems, were machined wrong. The edges of the valve itself were rounded off. In a hydraulic application that is bad. It allows the valve to rock in the sleeve and it also doesn't seal up as you need straight, squared edges in a hyd app. I only learned of the issues from Dave Husek himself. VERY KNOWLEDGEABLE when it comes to these trans.

I don't think that's all of your problem but like I said, a problem none the less.

Oh....and good luck getting ahold of Chris at CK. That's all I'll say about that.


IMHO, any future trans parts purchases or turbo buick parts in general I advise a call to David.
 
Last edited:
well i got it all back together and now its even worse. Im almost positive its a problem with that pressure. I cant get that valve out of the case. Forget what its call, next to the filter inlet. Sucks, my trans was fine before I installed this kit.

When I double checked my install, everything appeared correct. I will drop the trans pan one more time and remove that c-clip and see if i can use the TV cable trick to launch the parts into the trans pan.

In case it doesn't work, Dave, do you take credit card?
 
I finally got the pressure gauge. Ill check that next chance i get. In case I have to drill out the boost valve, can somebody explain that process to me? Thanks.
 
ttribejr said:
well i got it all back together and now its even worse. Im almost positive its a problem with that pressure. I cant get that valve out of the case. Forget what its call, next to the filter inlet. Sucks, my trans was fine before I installed this kit.

When I double checked my install, everything appeared correct. I will drop the trans pan one more time and remove that c-clip and see if i can use the TV cable trick to launch the parts into the trans pan.

In case it doesn't work, Dave, do you take credit card?
Click to expand...

Give me a call
 
blklt1z28 said:
Could be your problem and definitely is a problem. This is what happenes to a lot of them. Careful tapping on them as you can wedge them in even further. You can try bolting the pan back on with out the clip in place and add fluid and try running it. Leave it at idle and yank on the TV cable and see if you hear it pop out. It may come out, but it might not. If it doesn't you'll have to drill it out. If it gets to that point let us know, I can tell you how to go about it without messing anything else up since I was just in the same boat.

Some....a lot it seems, were machined wrong. The edges of the valve itself were rounded off. In a hydraulic application that is bad. It allows the valve to rock in the sleeve and it also doesn't seal up as you need straight, squared edges in a hyd app. I only learned of the issues from Dave Husek himself. VERY KNOWLEDGEABLE when it comes to these trans.

I don't think that's all of your problem but like I said, a problem none the less.

Oh....and good luck getting ahold of Chris at CK. That's all I'll say about that.


IMHO, any future trans parts purchases or turbo buick parts in general I advise a call to David.
Click to expand...
Hmmmmm..... Seems like a common issue going on here.. mine started with a sloppy 2-3 shift unless I did it manually.... Now it feels like I lost 2nd gear. And I second your comment on trying to get ahold of Chris. And mine was rebuilt by him and has less than 300 miles on the rebuild.
 
Well now you guys have me nervous. I'm in the middle of rebuilding my transmission. I have brand new halves of the pump and I put the ck performance boost valve in.... before I button up this transmission should I put the stock boost valve and spring back in?
 
You said the filter hangs down. Is it a bottom feed filter? Could it possibly be sucking down to the pan?
 
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