proper way to launch?

[arista5]

I was told it's best to feather your car through the 60' and then press the pedal as your going through it.

What is the exact way to launch without wheelspin on nitto 555r's

thanks

i always thought it was green = punch but that is reflected in my 2.12 60's

thanks

 

[TylerDurdenOLD]

when using non-slicks on the track, it is sometimes better to come out of the hole by taking a full second to get to WOT...some times doing a good burnout on decent street tires will hook with going to WOT immediately

also, going on green has nothing to do with what you get for a 60ft time......if you leave when you see green you will be about a half second behind the guy who leaves on the last yellow....not a half second ET wise though...just car lenght wise....now if you run a 14.00 ET and he runs a 14.00 ET he will still have beat you to the line by .5 seconds....

hope that made sense

dan

 

[wiked87gn]

hmmm let me place my imput.

you want to leave at the last yellow,also you can take off with about 5 pounds of boost and right after you get going go WOT, works for me.

 

[UNGN]

Feathering a TR ensures a slow 60 ft time. The proper way to launch a TR is leave with as much boost as the tires will hold.

If you have to feather the throttle, you need better tires and/or some rear suspension "tuning".

Boost not only spools the turbo, but also properly plants the rear tires.

Feathering implies a partially closed throttle which is not ideal for spooling or fueling. It also doesn't give any weight transfer or constant loading to plant the rear tires.

 

[c&cgn]

I would consider UNGN a drag radial "guru". I have used his method of launching with DR's and slicks and have the most success doing it his way. I even printed off one of his posts before the board crash, but can't seem to dig it up right now. Maybe he would be so kind as to post it again?

 

[mike85gn]

I build 4-5 pounds, and when I see the last yellow, I take my foot out of the brake and mash the gas with the other foot like mad. Oh, take out your floor mats, too

 

[Tom87GN]

Any of you guys have stock D5 converters on your cars? If so, what boost can you leave at with ET Streets or ET Slicks without spinning at the line?

 

[UNGN]

I still have the original D5 in my car. My big problem other than wheelspin was that my car "pushes through the lights". My brakes have needed to be gone through for a couple years, but they still work OK so I haven't bothered.

If your car pushes, what I found helps tremendously is to stage, boost to just before you feel the car is going to push or the rear tires spin. Now, as the tree comes down, with your foot still firmly on the brake, mash the gas pedal to the floor, then release the brake slightly afterwards. Even if your car can only hold 5 psi without spinning at the line (about what my car can) you can still net 1.6 60fts.

The rapid WOT will slighly bog the motor while spooling the turbo. The shock plants the tires (make sure there is plenty of air in the right side airbag 20-25 psi). If your car hooks (It should with ET Streets), it will feel like you were rearended by a truck.

 

[KEVINS]

Another trick if your car is pushing through the lights is back into the water box. Keep the front tires dry.

KS

 

[ez at nova]

with my stock D%, and 8" slicks, I hold 5/6 lbs before it either starts to push or the rear left tire starts to spin, and that's not fun becuase theyn I'm poining towards either the wall if I'm in the right lane, or the tree if I'm in the left!
Kind of strange that just the one spins under this condition since I have posi,...maybe since I don't have airbags or the left brake is weaker? I'm sure the posi works fine becaues if I light them up any other time both spin exactly the same.
Jeff C.

 

[Ed Miklavcic]

brakes

I installed Cotton front and rear "soft" pads and shoes along with the S10 wheel cylinders and am very pleased with the results. I'm sure the surfaces will wear away twice as fast but I stop and hold like a modern brake system where before it was a mash and pray. Cost was <$100 and time from jacking the car up to lowering it down was < 4 hours. Once the wheel cylinders are installed a re-shoeing should be < 3 hours.

 

[BIGBOOST]

Put some nice heat into the slicks, stage first, engage trans brake, build about 15 pounds of boost, leave on the last yellow, and hold on! When the frontend touches down, keep it straight and pull a gear!

 

[GT40FIED]

Are you married to your Nittos? With some good slicks it wouldn't really matter how you left. A transbrake would also be a huge help with that turbo. You could spool the boost up as much as you wanted and then let it rip. of course...this would annihilate street tires. On DR's I agree with Tyler Durden. Take about a second to get to WOT.

 

[UNGN]

Originally posted by GT40FIED
On DR's I agree with Tyler Durden. Take about a second to get to WOT.

Okay.....but you drive a mustang (and your 60 ft times on drag radials are?) That may be the proper way to drive a mustang, but If you drive a Buick like a Mustang, it will be as slow as a mustang. Ask someone with a TURBOCHARGED, automatic transmission mustang, what they do, then get back to us.

 

[rudyttype]

floor it

 

[hot6-231]

Hold as much boost as you can, if ya spin, then get slicks or sticky streets aka; Hoosiers(quick times) MT's, Drag radials.

 

[Ron]

The ladder bar works well to.

 

[Rippin_V6]

I agree totally with Mike85gn, TAKE OUT YOUR FLOORMAT!!!!! I would have lost at E-town because of a bunched up floormat, but instead I lost from a redlight!!!!lol My car lost 3 tenths of a second because of this......