parts ?

[tom robison]

hey guys, i have been wanting to build a turbo'd small block chevy for a few years now and was just wondering what blocks , cranks , rods and pistons you are using. I would like to do a blow through carb set for my gn. Thanks

 

[Louie L.]

I have been discussing this with Dusty B for a couple of weeks . Im sure he can pipe up and give you his opinion. Very important to get good infor from some one whos done it before.. One thing is to know how much power you are looking to get and what the budget is.

Im currently working on this type of project myself and have it mostly planned out.

 

[Dusty Bradford]

We need to know what your power goals are and we can go from there. Anything over 800 hp will be best for an aftermarket block. Stock blocks have made over 1000hp but the main caps will walk.

A stock 350 4 bolt block or a 2 bolt with splayed caps installed with an eagle or scat rotating assembly will take 800. I hear the later model 350 blocks are best suited for this. I knew I'd eventually want more than 1000 so I went straight to a Dart Little M block.

 

[tom robison]

looking to be in the mid to high 9's. About ten years ago i built a stock block, crank and rod motor w/ a procharger and went 10.50's with it on 94 octane, but that car weighed 2700 lbs, but now the car is about 800 lbs heavier and parts have came a long way since i last messed with a small block. i am planning on using a stock 2 bolt block w/ splayed caps, 4340 eagle crank and rods, not sure about pistons yet. what brand pistons do you use?

 

[Louie L.]

Thats a conservative and attainable goal. The Eagle parts can get you there. Still cylinder head and turbo choice will be important. Especially if the car is a fully equipped street unit with AC and all the goodies.

I use only JE's because of my experience with the V6's. I dont know if there is a better piston for the V8. If there is Ill buy it...

 

[tom robison]

the car is going to be a street car, but a stripped down summer car, no ac or heat. these are the heads i am thinking about using NEW PROACTION 23* ALUMINUM HEADS FOR SBC!! - Free Classifieds Powered By Racingjunk.com

as for pistons je are in the running. and the turbo iwas thinking about this eBay Motors: Precision PT-88 Turbo 1250HP T4 turbocharger PT88 (item 250050788026 end time Dec-16-06 14:13:03 PST)

 

[Dusty Bradford]

Combination of parts sounds fine. I will have my JE's for sale in a couple months if your interested. They are for a 4.030 bore and are the extreme duty inverted dome pistons for forced induction. -28cc dish for 8.5-1 with a 64cc chamber and fit a 3.75 stroke with 6.0 rod.

I'm swapping heads and can't use these pistons.

$400

 

[tom robison]

keep me in mind for the pistons when you are ready to sell them, that stroke, rod and piston combo yeilds 383 cid,correct

 

[Dusty Bradford]

Yes 383...

 

[ITSNOTAGN]

dont waste your money on a huge 1500$ turbo. call up dave @majestic turbo in dallas and he will send you a brand new borg warner s400, 75mm with a gt42 exhaust for 550$. this turbo is good to around 1000-1100hp and is easily and cheaply upgradable to an 88mm, wich is good to about 1400. its definately the best deal around and will spool around 2800-3200 on a 383 with good heads.
For the rest of it, sounds like youll do fine picking what you think is good. if your going F/I, i would do a single plane with either a elbow from intakeelbows.com or a 4bbl throttle body and a Extreme Velocity top hat. also if its a daily driver, stay fairly small on you cams .050 duration numbers, you dont need a huge one and the torque of the smaller cams is fun on the street
Gary

 

[turbocliff]

I went 9.90 @ 140 with a stock 4-bolt block, lunati crank, eagle rods, and lunati pistons. 383 ci with off the shelf brodix track 1s, a 600lift solid roller, a GT47-82mm turbo, and an air to air cooler.. It would have gone more like 9.40s with a clean pass, but only had 5 passes on it at low boost and was just starting to make power when I split the #2 main cap in half and destroyed my nice rotating assembly...

Now I have a 358ci (staying less than 360in for a class) bowtie block with billet splayed caps, crower crank, eagle 6" rods with L-19 bolts, amd JE dished pistons (9.5:1 with 67cc).. I have a Steve petty cusom grind solid roller, better Brodix track 1s than before, and a GT47-88mm turbo, but the rest of my combo is the same... put down 935RWHP on a mustang dyno @ 22psi.. prolly around 1200ish at the crank. Should be able to put down around 1200 at the wheels at 30psi with a lil more agressive of a tune (but still safe).

My advise is build a strong shortblock first, cause it's way too easy to make BIG HP with a sbc and a nice turbo... so you'll need a motor that can handle it...

Cliff

 

[tom robison]

been looking for parts, there is just to many to choose from.

 

[Louie L.]

Tom ,
Tell us what you are looking at. Im at the same point right now.There is so much SBC stuff its easy to be overwhelmed.

 

[idaho gn]

ive gone 9.0 with a mostly stock bottom end..........pistons were upgraded and rods were scat stock replacement .....010 block and gm crank this is in a syclone awd and all. would i recomend it ......mmmmmm maybe .

 

[tom robison]

what crank and rods to use? eagle scat, ohio crankshaft. who's the best? will a stock block filled with block fill hit the 9.60-9.90 range. rember this is going to be a street car , not a daily driver. What size turbo to use and what brand?

 

[ITSNOTAGN]

a stock block will go mid nines no problem. the problem is that going so much faster is easy, and once you build a combo for the 9's, you usually have one that will make the power for 8's and overstress the block.
To answer your question, a half-fill will work fine, and an eagle rotating assembly is plenty. basically your preference and cost its up to you. the main problem is that if your buying a complete rotating assembly i would just spring for a little M block because you can keep it for 5-10 years easily with the amount of rebuilds it affords. if you want a stock block, get this one and be done with it.
Dyno-Flo

actually anything from dynoflow is the best value you can get, hands down and i would personally buy a this, and i was actually going to until i went with a ls1
Dyno-Flo
that engine on 10psi will put you in the 9s very easily, if not low 9's.
Gary

 

[tom robison]

looking at a gen 6 for a tpi camaro,/ speed density, can i make this work?

 

[chevyII]

as far a high dollar parts for chevy the best cranks are the same crower and callies, rods hands down oliver and pistons are easy JE. Heads are just as easy going 23/18/ or sb2.2 heads the second two will get expensive due to the specific valvetrain parts. Alos if you go with a 23 degree type head get a large volume intake like 220cc ARF heads then port them to 230 or so. The stock style heads are the limiting factor on HP. Also if you go with an aftermarket block make sure and get a large bore 4.125 siamesed block. The larger bore unshrouds the valves and made good gains in a NA engine.

 

[clusolynn]

clusolynn with blown 87

Hello, I recently "blew" the bottom out of my 87. But, after reading about what you are doing, I have a brand new set of dart cast iron heads with 2.05 intake valves and 220 cc runners with flow sheets that I would be interested in trading for ? v6 race heads? roller rocker setup?stock longblock? scanmaster etc., if you are interested,please let me know at clusolynn@excite.com or call at 386-719-6814. Thanks, John Lynn

 

[tom robison]

i have a direct scan setup and some other odds and ends , shoot me an email, thoughs heads would go good on my new daily driver. tprobison@fuse.net