First off, let me say sorry for the long post. Its just that I am very interested in learning a little about the 200-4r transmission. I have a lot of questions regarding the strengthaning topic, and since I am new to transmissions, I don’t fully understand all of this so if you can help feed a hungry mind, I will be very gratefull!!!
I will need help in discription of some of the procedures, and then identifying some of the parts, I have a haynes manual to reference but it uses different part namesf from the article.
here is a link to the diagram I have been studing
http://www.geocities.com/iamwillywanka/200-4Ra.html
CASE:
Always make sure surface is FLAT and in good shape. Using solvent or water , a 2X4 board, as a block, will work with wet/dry sand paper, 400 grit, and just go over to assure the surface is flat and has no burrs or divots in aluminum surfaces. Q#1(Isnt it bad to use sandpaper due to the chance of the miniscule sand getting in the case? If not due to good cleaning do you wet sand or dry sand?)
PARK GEAR:
We install a Torrington low drag bearing. Q#2(is that part #100?)
LOW PLANET:
No problems but new roller clutch is suggested. Q#3(is that part #96?)
LOW REVERSE CENTER SUPPORT:
This washer, Center Support to Sun Shell, is the most common to fail. Q#4(is this part #82?) PTS installs a roller bearing in the face for more dependability. Q#5(is that in place of the washer or additional to the washer?)
SUN GEAR AND SHELL:
Use stock OEM hardened shell. Q#6(is that how it came from the factory, or will it need to be purchased)
FRONT PLANET:
Ck for washer side pinion wear. Drill out lube hole to increase lube to bearing and pinions by three or four sizes. Q#7(drill which piece, # please)
*FORWARD DRUM: Q#8(is that part #72 or 57)
We also replace the plastic thrust washer with a bearing. Q#9(part number 56 or 71)
*DIRECT DRUM: Q#10(part #43?)
The direct drum must be within .030 of original diameter.Q#11(what is the original diameter?) In ring bore, no ring cavities can be present. Q#12(Is that just a groove that has etched itself in from a bearing?)Teflon rings are recommended and almost a must.
Q#13(do these replace part #45?)
BANDS AND RELATED:
We have tried and tested all kinds of bands. Q#14(is this part #41?)
CENTER SUPPORT:
Another common 2-3 flair Q#15(what is the 2-3 flair and simptoms) Ring land wear. Q#16(sorry, but can any one discribe apperance because I am dense) Teflon bushing is used in direct drum. Q#17(does that replace part #35?) All ports are checked for crossleaks. Q#18(sorry, dense again) All should do this. For street/strip cars the killer street unit has a large bearing Q#19(is this part #39?, and is it not large to start with or will I need to install a larger one?) on the center support between drum and center support. The center support is crossed drilled Q#20(is there a current hole that you enlarge or do you drill a new hole?) for lube and then polished. Q#21(dense but what do you polish it with?) A bearing is cut into the front for contact with OD ring gear. Again less parasitic drag. No real strength gain, less drag, less friction.
OVERDRIVE RING GEAR:
The OD ring gear Q#22(is that part #28?)
*3+4 CLUTCH
4th clutch, a 3 clutch piston Q#23(is that part #33?) should be used (2 is stock). Q#24(is it just the piston or # of clutches also) A stock cut to .070 will work just fine. Q#25(who would I bring this to who would know how to do this? Machinest, tranny shop?)
OR CLUTCH
No changes needed.Just ck weld at front. Q#26(check weld on which piece?)
*OVERDRIVE PLANET: Q#27(is that part #24?)
INPUT SHAFT:
There are two designs of input shafts stock. First is the "blind spline" type. With these, the planet splines kinda spline into the bearing journal . The other has a distinct "grove" between splines and journal. Q#28(are there any pics of the two different kinds by chance?) Always use hand fit one piece solid teflon rings. Q#29(does that replace part #4?)
*PUMP BODY: First, never use a pump body twice unless you are reinstalling the SAME pump rotor,slide,and veins, Q#30(so if I want to upgrade to a 10 vane pump I SHOULD get a new pump body?)
that came out of the running trans.
Use only GM parts ...slide,rotor,veins,all purchased at the same time, all measured at the same time. Q#31(who measures for what? If they are the same size as the old ones? Does GM sell them all together that are messured with each other?)10 Vein is more than enough. The Chrome Moly ring kits have been known to be a little rough too. We wet sand with 600 over glass Q#32(why over glass? Less chance of contamination?) in solvent the flat edges and then fine wire wheel the circumferance. It is imperitive that the pump rotor and slide are measured very carefully. They MUST be within .002 of the pump cavity depth. Q#33(how to measure this and need a little more detail, for I am getting denser by the minute)
If you have a good pump body Q#34(how do you know? If there are no scoring marks?) and have the ability to measure it to the thousandth, you could play rotor roulette and get your calipers out and measure 50 slides and rotors before you get two that would fit, PERFECTLY. Q#35(do you mean if the measure the same as the old ones?) AND, you could probobly pull it of, but it is not exact.
Ok, now we modify the pump return Q#36(is that hidden behind the front seal?) hole by drilling it to 9/64ths. From both directions.
Assemble all pump rotor parts in , of all things, Cam shaft install lube. The red stuff.
Q#37(is there cam lube that is red? Does that hurt the tranny or is it kind like petro jelly, or do you change the atf fluid after tranny has been run for a little while?)
*PUMP STATOR:
A hardned stator should always be installed. Q#38(are the hardened from the factory, or is that only an aftermarket piece?) (maybe if I can spare the extra $ I should just buy the pump ass. From bruce)
38 question in one post!!!! please dont ban me for so many questions.
I just cant stop thinking about this stuff. I stayed up till almost 3am because I couldnt sleep because of SO many questions. If I am good and willing to be a good student, will you members be my technical advisors? thank you, thank you, thank you
FEED ME MORIS (little shop of horrors)
NEED INPUT(short circut)
I will need help in discription of some of the procedures, and then identifying some of the parts, I have a haynes manual to reference but it uses different part namesf from the article.
here is a link to the diagram I have been studing
http://www.geocities.com/iamwillywanka/200-4Ra.html
CASE:
Always make sure surface is FLAT and in good shape. Using solvent or water , a 2X4 board, as a block, will work with wet/dry sand paper, 400 grit, and just go over to assure the surface is flat and has no burrs or divots in aluminum surfaces. Q#1(Isnt it bad to use sandpaper due to the chance of the miniscule sand getting in the case? If not due to good cleaning do you wet sand or dry sand?)
PARK GEAR:
We install a Torrington low drag bearing. Q#2(is that part #100?)
LOW PLANET:
No problems but new roller clutch is suggested. Q#3(is that part #96?)
LOW REVERSE CENTER SUPPORT:
This washer, Center Support to Sun Shell, is the most common to fail. Q#4(is this part #82?) PTS installs a roller bearing in the face for more dependability. Q#5(is that in place of the washer or additional to the washer?)
SUN GEAR AND SHELL:
Use stock OEM hardened shell. Q#6(is that how it came from the factory, or will it need to be purchased)
FRONT PLANET:
Ck for washer side pinion wear. Drill out lube hole to increase lube to bearing and pinions by three or four sizes. Q#7(drill which piece, # please)
*FORWARD DRUM: Q#8(is that part #72 or 57)
We also replace the plastic thrust washer with a bearing. Q#9(part number 56 or 71)
*DIRECT DRUM: Q#10(part #43?)
The direct drum must be within .030 of original diameter.Q#11(what is the original diameter?) In ring bore, no ring cavities can be present. Q#12(Is that just a groove that has etched itself in from a bearing?)Teflon rings are recommended and almost a must.
Q#13(do these replace part #45?)
BANDS AND RELATED:
We have tried and tested all kinds of bands. Q#14(is this part #41?)
CENTER SUPPORT:
Another common 2-3 flair Q#15(what is the 2-3 flair and simptoms) Ring land wear. Q#16(sorry, but can any one discribe apperance because I am dense) Teflon bushing is used in direct drum. Q#17(does that replace part #35?) All ports are checked for crossleaks. Q#18(sorry, dense again) All should do this. For street/strip cars the killer street unit has a large bearing Q#19(is this part #39?, and is it not large to start with or will I need to install a larger one?) on the center support between drum and center support. The center support is crossed drilled Q#20(is there a current hole that you enlarge or do you drill a new hole?) for lube and then polished. Q#21(dense but what do you polish it with?) A bearing is cut into the front for contact with OD ring gear. Again less parasitic drag. No real strength gain, less drag, less friction.
OVERDRIVE RING GEAR:
The OD ring gear Q#22(is that part #28?)
*3+4 CLUTCH
4th clutch, a 3 clutch piston Q#23(is that part #33?) should be used (2 is stock). Q#24(is it just the piston or # of clutches also) A stock cut to .070 will work just fine. Q#25(who would I bring this to who would know how to do this? Machinest, tranny shop?)
OR CLUTCH
No changes needed.Just ck weld at front. Q#26(check weld on which piece?)
*OVERDRIVE PLANET: Q#27(is that part #24?)
INPUT SHAFT:
There are two designs of input shafts stock. First is the "blind spline" type. With these, the planet splines kinda spline into the bearing journal . The other has a distinct "grove" between splines and journal. Q#28(are there any pics of the two different kinds by chance?) Always use hand fit one piece solid teflon rings. Q#29(does that replace part #4?)
*PUMP BODY: First, never use a pump body twice unless you are reinstalling the SAME pump rotor,slide,and veins, Q#30(so if I want to upgrade to a 10 vane pump I SHOULD get a new pump body?)
that came out of the running trans.
Use only GM parts ...slide,rotor,veins,all purchased at the same time, all measured at the same time. Q#31(who measures for what? If they are the same size as the old ones? Does GM sell them all together that are messured with each other?)10 Vein is more than enough. The Chrome Moly ring kits have been known to be a little rough too. We wet sand with 600 over glass Q#32(why over glass? Less chance of contamination?) in solvent the flat edges and then fine wire wheel the circumferance. It is imperitive that the pump rotor and slide are measured very carefully. They MUST be within .002 of the pump cavity depth. Q#33(how to measure this and need a little more detail, for I am getting denser by the minute)
If you have a good pump body Q#34(how do you know? If there are no scoring marks?) and have the ability to measure it to the thousandth, you could play rotor roulette and get your calipers out and measure 50 slides and rotors before you get two that would fit, PERFECTLY. Q#35(do you mean if the measure the same as the old ones?) AND, you could probobly pull it of, but it is not exact.
Ok, now we modify the pump return Q#36(is that hidden behind the front seal?) hole by drilling it to 9/64ths. From both directions.
Assemble all pump rotor parts in , of all things, Cam shaft install lube. The red stuff.
Q#37(is there cam lube that is red? Does that hurt the tranny or is it kind like petro jelly, or do you change the atf fluid after tranny has been run for a little while?)
*PUMP STATOR:
A hardned stator should always be installed. Q#38(are the hardened from the factory, or is that only an aftermarket piece?) (maybe if I can spare the extra $ I should just buy the pump ass. From bruce)
38 question in one post!!!!
please dont ban me for so many questions.I just cant stop thinking about this stuff. I stayed up till almost 3am because I couldnt sleep because of SO many questions. If I am good and willing to be a good student, will you members be my technical advisors? thank you, thank you, thank you
FEED ME MORIS (little shop of horrors)
NEED INPUT(short circut)
