New lower voltage has car dieing when put in gear.

[we4Mateo]

Oh, now I show my ignorance. How do I tell. I know the cross counts aren't counting.

When the cc's stop, it's in open loop and the chip commands the fueling; most TT chips are set up this way and the extender chips can be set either way. Also, the decimal on the scanmaster will blink slowly when in open loop and be on steady when in closed loop from the home screen. You're idle AFR's sound about normal with a TT chip; 13's are better but I don't think you're hurting anything. I prefer the closed loop idle myself, but you need a really good ignition system to keep the car idling smoothly. A wider gap from a good ignition system helps this too. I wouldn't worry about your idle AFR much though where it is. If your BL's at cruise are within 10+- of 128 then your fuel pressure should be good too. The translator idle adjust might help. I def don't think it's voltage related though as lower voltage usually makes a car go leaner.

What chip are you running? Sorry if you mentioned it already.

 

[we4Mateo]

If the car still stalls, you'll probably need to get used to goosing it a bit when shifting into gear until the TC loosens up over time. Those damn Vig TC's do that for a while. I LOVE locking mine at wot though. It is something. My hunch would be it doesn't stall when the trans is good and warmed up?

 

[LEGACY_GN]

The convertor is 5 years old with about 25k on it and never did it before. I have tt wide and chip. It just feel like it's give it too much gas at idle and even pushing on brakes. Could be in my head but other wise seems to run good.

 

[we4Mateo]

The convertor is 5 years old with about 25k on it and never did it before. I have tt wide and chip. It just feel like it's give it too much gas at idle and even pushing on brakes. Could be in my head but other wise seems to run good.

What's a TT wide? Is that a speed density chip like a 6.0 or something? There should be a version number on the chip. MAF or no MAF?

 

[LEGACY_GN]

It's the latest 6.1 for or wide and o2 or whatever with the special board that goes in the scan master and a 3.5 maf. I had thought maybe the maf is dirty

 

[we4Mateo]

It's the latest 6.1 for or wide and o2 or whatever with the special board that goes in the scan master and a 3.5 maf. I had thought maybe the maf is dirty

Do you need a MAF for the 6.1? I don't know much about that chip. Eric Stage I is the guy to ask; he made it.

 

[Eric Stage I]

Your air/fuel ratio at idle is good, nothing wrong there.
I would concentrate on IAC operation. Try to get the IAC numbers set up right and see how that goes. (10-30 in park, warmed up)

 

[we4Mateo]

^^^^^See!

 

[LEGACY_GN]

Thank you so much for you replies.

IAC is about 3 months old as I thought it was the problem to but they have always been in 15-20 range at idle in park and about 30-40 in gear. Now, where it gets interesting is when you put it in reverse they at first hold around 40 and then begin climbing all the way to 150 if you let it and then you take it out of gear and the RPMS race up for a while. It's always done that though with the old IAC and now the new one so I've just decided to accept it. Anyway, I cleaned the MAF and air filter today and hooked up my fuel pressure gage. Pressure is showing 40 at idle, so a bit low. It also hesitates and surges idling in gear coasting. Drives great, idles terrible and dies all the time when going into gear. All since lowering voltage. Eric, could the 16 volts for 8k miles have damaged the ECM or your chip?? If it wasn't for frying batteries and headlights I'd remove the caspers field fix and go back to the 16 volts.

 

[we4Mateo]

Thank you so much for you replies.

IAC is about 3 months old as I thought it was the problem to but they have always been in 15-20 range at idle in park and about 30-40 in gear. Now, where it gets interesting is when you put it in reverse they at first hold around 40 and then begin climbing all the way to 150 if you let it and then you take it out of gear and the RPMS race up for a while. It's always done that though with the old IAC and now the new one so I've just decided to accept it. Anyway, I cleaned the MAF and air filter today and hooked up my fuel pressure gage. Pressure is showing 40 at idle, so a bit low. It also hesitates and surges idling in gear coasting. Drives great, idles terrible and dies all the time when going into gear. All since lowering voltage. Eric, could the 16 volts for 8k miles have damaged the ECM or your chip?? If it wasn't for frying batteries and headlights I'd remove the caspers field fix and go back to the 16 volts.

The field fix does nothing for your voltage. Keep it though so you don't get stranded. You have other problems.

 

[LEGACY_GN]

Trust me, normally I'd agree with you, but I promise it dropped the volts from 16 to 14 average. New kirban 200 amp alternator was constantly in the high 15's as soon as I installed it. 8000 miles later I put the caspers field fix and they drop to normal. My theory is that somehow the old volt booster was running up the volts all the time with the new alternator and as soon as I hooked the field fix they dropped. Weird right? I swear thats what happened. I'll even make a youtube video of it. Regardless, since the lower voltage it hasn't run right at idle.

 

[TurboBuRick]

I don't know how the field fix would correct voltage.

 

[we4Mateo]

You may have problems now with lower voltage, but you probably had problems before that were covered up by the higher voltage. Get back to basics and make it run right on the proper voltage.

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app

 

[we4Mateo]

Your idle afr's are fine so what are you still having problems with?

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app

 

[GNRick]

Maybe you need a new O2 sensor? When I was having transmission issues, I read where flooring the car a few times quickly might unstick the throttle valve. Well all that happened was I fried the headlights. I also have a Caspers voltbooster. I don't think I damaged anything else though.

 

[LEGACY_GN]

I fixed it. IAC was sticking because port was carbone up from old engine always backfiring under boost and me not cleaning IAC port on new engine. I'm guessing the higher voltage was enough to get the IAC to retract the plunger faster when put in gear despite carbon, and when I lowered the voltage it wasn't enough to overcome carbon build up. Throttle body cleaner to port and to IAC and works perfect now. No more dieing when put in gear and idles much better. Thanks for all the responses and hopefully if this happens to someone else maybe they can check for carbon build up.

 

[we4Mateo]

Great! Glad to hear that.

 

[bpman1234]

man i just went trough that iac cleaning but in my case just at idle the idle was going up and down but when i gave it gas all was good till it had to idle .carb cleaner did the job all is good.glad you fix it .