huntsg
Active Member
- Joined
- Aug 10, 2009
Glad you got the leak solved.
New Accufab FPR Leaking!! Help
- Thread starter RED LS1
- Start date
Glad you got the leak solved.
ScottHeidinger
Active Member
- Joined
- May 2, 2015
All the TT chips I have used say 43 line off. Mine drops to low 30's line on and warmed up. I don't think a couple PSI will make a huge difference as long as you BL numbers are within reason
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- Joined
- May 28, 2001
5-6 is ok.
ScottHeidinger
Active Member
- Joined
- May 2, 2015
Is your fuel pressure rising 1:1 with boost? Have you looked at your IAC and TPS numbers?
Is it stumbling at low boost, high boost or any boost?
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Is it stumbling at low boost, high boost or any boost?
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Pronto
Believe nothing you hear and half of what you see.
- Joined
- Dec 9, 2002
I waited till you got the Kirban's regulator to comfirm my opinion of the Accuflub regulator. At some point their quality fell short of the mark and doesn't look like it's ever coming back. They are junk. You'll never see one on my car ever again.
RED LS1
SENIOR MEMBER
- Joined
- Dec 31, 2001
Funny you should mention the TPS/IAC. My IAC was Waay off. I started looking at the scanmaster instructions hoping to find something off and IAC it was. IT was at about 75-80 at idle. I had the screw way out because I stripped and painted the TB. So I screwed it in and got it to 10-15. I readjusted the TPS to .44-.46. Stalled it back up to 4-5 psi and same thing. It just starts poofing and sputtering. The car won't even spin the tires. I can't make it past the lowest amount of boost. It's idling perfect and runs great otherwise. Long terms are 129 and BL is around 125 right now. It was 129 before I adjusted the IAC. The MAf is reading around 6 at idle. Fuel pressure is 45 with line off and 39-40 with line on. I checked all the inlet and intercooler hose connections they're all new and tight with T-bolts from RJC. The wires and plugs are all brand new they're RJC MSD wires and NGK UR5 at .032. I also pulled the new TT chip out and reinstalled to make sure there were no problems with pins
That fitting installed looks like it could be the wrong fitting. All the ones I have seen the o ring doesn't slip back and forth like that one will. The o ring usually sits tight in that groove. My guess is that's the problem.
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RED LS1
SENIOR MEMBER
- Joined
- Dec 31, 2001
The car was bone stock when I got it with 50,000 miles. This problem did not exist. I tore the motor down to the heads and block and put it all back together cleaned and painted with new gaskets. Right now it's stock long block, stock turbo and intercooler with a TT chip and 60's that are brand new. The ignition stuff is original and so is the MAF
turbo87adam
Active Member
- Joined
- Mar 18, 2012
Did you make sure to sand all the connection points for the chassis grounds? I'm not a 100% sure but I thought the ignition module grounds thru the brackets and to the engine block?. Paint looks nice but can cause grounding gremlins if not closely watched as things are bolted back together that need a clean grounding surface.
RED LS1
SENIOR MEMBER
- Joined
- Dec 31, 2001
Yeah I would start testing the coil/ignition and maf for the sputtering problem.
As far as the ground to the coil/ignition, In my old el Camino i had to run a ground directly to the coil bracket/plate. Resolved a similar issue.
I took my accufab off for a few days and when I went to put it back on and do the "line off" test, fuel shot out of the vac port. I got the Kirban's and haven't had a problem yet. There is a post around here, good luck finding it, that shows a fp trace of the accufab and the kirban fpr. The accufab was somewhat erratic, the kirban much flatter. Bottom line, Kirban's is the fpr to get.
Pronto
Believe nothing you hear and half of what you see.
- Joined
- Dec 9, 2002
Gene Van Horn
Active Member
- Joined
- Feb 20, 2013
You said the car hasnt been run in a while. After you check coil and module i would check maf and 02 sensor. If you have the dough go with LS or LT and a new o2 .
