Lend Me Your Ears - Stereo Upgrade Questions

a little to brite on the treble for me. .

I know exactly what you mean. I love Santana's guitar, but can't stand that piercing treble that some equipment seems to be tuned to produce.

I have begun listening to head units and speakers and hear a lot of treble that seems to be built into some products. And, they do not have separate treble and bass controls.

Instead, some head units (less expensive stuff) I have seen have gone the route of home theater systems with that feature that lets us select the type of sound we are listening to, i.e., "pop," "vocal," "classical," "hip-hop."

So, I am going to continue to listen and look for higher-end equipment that gives me the individual CONTROL over bass and treble that I want. I know they are out there, I just have not seen that much yet.

The point about sound rooms is well-taken...a car is a much smaller audio environment with competing sound from outside.

Thanks for the ideas guys.

Steve
 
my opinion from a musician

I also have a 87 turbo t and listen to lots of music. Being a pro musician guitar player I like my music to be clear and defined. My system has the ability to shake windows from the frames but since I turn down the gains on my amps it sounds clear and tight. I play and listen to exactly the same types of music as you so here's what I recommend and use. Remember this is just my suggestion but will give you what I think you're looking for. Of corse it all depends on what you have to spend. I use a alpine head unit. I tried many other units out there and always found the alpine not only to be the best looking but to have the best features and sound. For speakers stay away from 6x9s for the rear instead go with components( a mid range and seperate tweeter with a crossover to keep the bass out of the mix. I'd do the same for the front, again use a component system of a mid and tweeter with a crossover. I use boston acoustics for my rear and alpine for the front. I also have 2 12 inch subs for bass. Like I said it can pound if i want it to but is not adjusted for crappy rap. Sorry guys to me rap is not music.. I have a 12 band eq that fits the dash under the stereo to fine tune the frequencies and also to turn on off the bass also to adjust the bass frequency. In total I have 10 speakers 4 front 4 rear and 2 subs. Tuning tips this is where most people screw up and make a great system sound like crap . try this. when using amps turn the gain down on all the amps, then turn yur radio all the way up next adjust the volume to the point that you like it with the amp gain. If you do this right your system will have max volume or volume that you like without the farting distortion that many systems have from just cranking the radio up. I also use phoneix gold 1500 watt 4 channel amp for my regular speakers and an alpine 1000 watt amp for my subs. do the samr to adjust your sub amp. Also dont cheap out and assume all patch cords are equal use good quality cords to hook up the amps and good quality wires for power and grounds . get a good 4 gauge power wire and hook it to the battery and use a quality power block. almost forgot I use alpine dd drive components in the front. in all I have some bucks invested in my system but it don't have to be done all at once. I'd start with a good head unit a small amp and good quality speakers. most speakers out there are decent enough but if you really want good sound you have to use components. They are specific to the tones mid for mid tweeter for highs subs for bass. you might be able to get away without an eq since most radios have 1 built in now , I like having it cause it's visual and I don't have to search through screens to adjust a frequency . good luck and hope this gives you an idea or two
 
Hi Jamier-

Thanks for the ideas. I have been off the net for a week.

I understand the concept and it makes sense to me. I believe that, like in a home system, separate speaker components will produce the highest quality sound. Those two and three-way 6x9s are a joke.

Would you be kind enough to tell me in detail (brands and models) what head unit, equalizer, amps, and speakers you have; exactly where you positioned each type of speaker, and what brand and model crossovers you used for them? What does "dd drive" (re Alpine components) mean?

Generally, will I have to fabricate speaker mounting brackets and how do you protect wiring from the dash into the doors (I assume there are door speakers)?

I appreciate your input!

Steve
 
install tips

I'm using the alpine Ai net head unit I'll send you the model # later on for this and the other components. I'll get straight to the install. First thing I did was pull up the carpet and run my 4 gauge power cable from the battery to the trunk. I put an inline 30 amp fuse under the hood just after the battery. I then ran the rca and speaker cables from the trunk to the dash where the radio will go, Just a note but never run the power cable and the speaker wires/ rca cables on the same side my power was run on the passenger side and the rest on the driver side. Like I said before spend a few extra bucks and get yourself some decent speaker cables and rca's. The reason in #1 quality of the wire. TThe better the shielding the less chance of unwanted hum or noise in your system. AS for speaker placement. Here's what I did You might choose to do different. I used the boston acoustic components in my rear deck, they are a component system but came in a pre wired casing with a cover/ grill. I cut my rear dash just enough to drop in the unit and used a little Gb which is a type of body caulk to secure it in place. The unit is low profile enough to not really be noticed unless you are looking for it. 1 on the left side and 1 on the right , I put them right where the factory speakers would go. I also painted the grills to match the car color, I think it looked sharp. some prefer not seeing the speakers and mounting them underneath the rear deck this could be done also , I just choose to go this route. My front speakers I built some pods out of mdf wood And mounted them to the lower door pannels with screws from behind. I had to cut the lower pannels to allow the speaker magnets to clear the pannels and sit flush. I sanded the pods and again used paint to paint them the color on the door pannels, I kept the grills black the pods grey looked really trick. If you have concert sound lowers you wont have to cut anything, the mids will fit right in place of the originals. The front tweeters I mounted on the lower door pannel aimed center and upwards, I positioned them just in front of the power lock switch, or remote mirror switch, just had to drill a small hole th pass the wire through then screw the tweeter to the pannel. I did the same for the right and left front components. The crossovers I mounted under the dash close to the kick pannels. The wiring for the units went like this speaker wire from the amp to the crossover to the speaker, the crossover splits the speaker wire into the mid and tweetew so you have to run two wires from under the dash into the door and to each specific speaker. Sounds like alot but it's reall easy My front components are alpine dd drive series don't know if they still make then but they were top of the line competition series when I picked them up. I was lucky when I bought my stuff since a friend of mine was parting out the system in his show truck and sold everything dirt cheap. He went 3rd in the world sound off with the amps and wire's I took off him. The dd drives are not the same that he had but really sound great and are high quality. I think the trick is to take your time with the install and keep everything as clean as possible, Hide the wires as much as you can. take the extra time to pull up the carpets and to loosen the interior pannels when you do the wiring, you'll be glad you did later on, plus it cuts down on the chances of wire chafing when you pull the wiles against metal parts. My trunk was like this, Because I carry lots of musical stuff/ guitars amps exc... I had no room for a sub box. So I went with free air subs. I bought 2 12 inch sobs and mounted them to a piece of mdf wood and positioned them upright behind the back seats. I used a piece of black carpet to cover the wood and make it look nice. again I passed the wires up and above the subs and wood then down in front and around / under so the wire would not be seen. I built a amp rack and put it in front of the sup plate but layed it down. Again I drilled the holes for all the speaker wires and power wires and passed them throught the carpeted wood and to the amps. Only about 1 inch of the wires came through and they connected to the amps so it looked really clean, for the wood and carpet I think I spent 50 bucks, really cheap investment for a amp and sub rack that looks pro done almost forgot I left a 1nch or two of space between the floor of the trunk and the rack to make room for the wires that I ran earlier, this way they were tucked away nice and clean under the rack. the rack had two amps on it 1 for the speakers and 1 for the subs. I also put my fuse box, power splitter in the middle. It split the powerline from the 4 gauge wire to 4 12 or 10 gauge wires don't remember which. the fuse box also gave me extra protection against power surge. If I was to use a stiffining cap I would have also mounted it here. just never got around to it. it took me about 1 night to do everything, I had all the supplies and tools ahead of time and called a friend to help out. I'll look if I still have the pics around This was in my old regal my new t- type just needs the sound of the te-60. This system has since been switched into my s-10 truck only difference is I built a box and put in 2 12 inch rockford fosgate subs. Like I said before I have the ability to blow out windows but prefer to tune the system for maximum clairity and listening environment. Write me if any other questions good luck hope this helps.
 
Jamier-

Thank you for taking all that time to detail your install and setup. I appreciate your effort! I am in total agreement about buying quality components. As it is said: "You get what you pay for."

I can tell I will be pushing the limits of this area to find and listen to some of the equipment you and others have described. We have Circuit City, Best Buy, Tweeter, and a few private car audio businesses. But wherever I go, I will be armed with my own CDs to test speakers and amps with the kind of music I like.

It is nice to know that some of these turboBs have sound systems that match the cars' performance.

Happy Holidays to all of you who have posted on this thread.

Steve
 
I have an Alpine 7990 head unit. It feeds a Linear Power PA2 pre-amp, which in turn feeds a Linear Power XO3 crossover. Both of these units have been modified to increase the sound quality.

The sub out goes to a Linear Power 5002 running mono. The amp has been modified to produce 1700+ watts and has a feedback circuit. The sub is a Cerwin Vega Stroker 12" sub in a 4 cu ft ported enclosure, which is ported to 32 Hz. The enclosure takes up the entire package shelf.

The band pass channel feeds the rear fill amp which is a Linear Power DPS200 which has also been modified for additional power and sound quality. The rear fill speakers are a pair of Alpine SPX-17MB 6-1/2" Mid Bass drivers. These are mounted in the rear seat arm rest recess in a custom panel covered in factory style cloth with a removable grill.

The high pass channel feed the front end amp which is a Linear Power DPSQ50 4 channel amp which has been modified for additional power and sound quality. The front end speakers are a pair of Blues 6-1/2" Mid Bass drivers mounted in a pair of custom door panels. These are run off of 2 channels of the amp. The mid-range and tweeters are Image Dynamics CXS54 5 1/4" woofers and 1" silk dome tweeters mounted in QForms kick panels. These are run off the other 2 channels of the amp.

The entire car has had extensive sound deadening done to the entire interior. Dynamat Extreme covers every interior surface, doors, roof, floor, deck lid, trunk floor, quarter panels and fire wall. No sub bass rattles here. Three batteries in the spare tire well supply the power. Monster Cable speaker wiring and RCA cables through out. 2 ga. power and ground cables.

Now the good news. It's all being removed to be improved, bigger and better. There will be 4 Polk DB 12's in a custom enclosure. Different mid-bass drivers, maybe some horns, and more power.
John
 
POLK dbs? try 2 Polk Srs instead. Better sound, (and if you are doin horns you obv are chasing SQ) smaller box size w/ 2 SRs vs 4 dbs....also you could mono @2ohms a 500.1 polk/momo amp to each one to get 975 rms on each sub to satisfy any SPL urges. As a Polk sponsoree, and car builder I honestly can say the SR series is the sickest!! Its everything Diamond Audio, MB Q, and JL aim for.
 
Hey Greg, I already have the DB 12's. I'm doing an aperiodic (sp?) enclosure with a pair of Linear Power 2.2 HV's. Looking for sound quality, but not willing to give up volume.
John
 
Top