It can't be aligned

[georgewe4]

I took the Buick to get an alignment and was told it could not be aligned until some repairs was first made. I got the list of "stuff" and am now looking for opinions from people who know.
* center link Remove and replace center link
*Idler arms and Pitman arms (front-right) Remove and replace Idler arm
*Bushings (upper-front, right) Remove and replace control arm shaft and bushing, upper, one side

It came to a rand total of 513.95 plus tax with the 69.99 alignment.
I have done many repairs on cars, but have never done anything with the steering and control of a car. I know I could do this. Any advice on where to but the parts? Auto-zone, advance, NAPA? Cost? Part numbers? Anything to make this easier? Any of this stuff that I cant do at home with normal mechanic tools? I have Nothing fancier than a nice craftsman torque wrench... Bushings..how hard is that?
Thanks,
George

 

[turbojimmy]

I took the Buick to get an alignment and was told it could not be aligned until some repairs was first made. I got the list of "stuff" and am now looking for opinions from people who know.
* center link Remove and replace center link
*Idler arms and Pitman arms (front-right) Remove and replace Idler arm
*Bushings (upper-front, right) Remove and replace control arm shaft and bushing, upper, one side

It came to a rand total of 513.95 plus tax with the 69.99 alignment.
I have done many repairs on cars, but have never done anything with the steering and control of a car. I know I could do this. Any advice on where to but the parts? Auto-zone, advance, NAPA? Cost? Part numbers? Anything to make this easier? Any of this stuff that I cant do at home with normal mechanic tools? I have Nothing fancier than a nice craftsman torque wrench... Bushings..how hard is that?
Thanks,
George

A pickle fork would come in handy for the center link and idler and pitman arms. Otherwise they're easy to replace. The real b*tch is the upper control arm bushing. The upper control arm is easy enough to get out, but replacing the bushings is tough. Using advice here, I set them on fire with a torch and then beat the shells out of them. To install the new bushings I made a tool out of 1 1/2" pipe so I could drive the bushings into the arm. Do a search on the upper control arm bushing - you'll get lots of hits. The hot downpipe roasts them so it's a pretty common problem. You might want to put a heat shield on the downpipe when you're through.

Jim

 

[TURBOTWIN2]

You really need to find out why the Pitman Arm is recommended for replacement. That's a non-wear item, it would be special order. It has a hole on each end and the center link goes in one hole (wear part is the end of the center link) and the other end slides up on the gear box. The only ways it can go bad is: bent from impact or holes wallowed out from loose bolts on either end. Pitman Arm hardly ever needs replacement.
I would also say to do both sides on the upper A-frame bushings to keep them even. You could always take the arms off yourself (be sure and put the shims back like they were) and take the arms to a garage and let them do the bushings "on the bench". Easy money for a front-end man. HTH.

 

[UNGN]

This is about as simple as auto repair gets.

If you just do the upper control arm bushing, it will probably be able to be aligned. A smoked bushing will affect the steering.

You can replace the upper control arms without removing/compressing the spring. Just unbolt and pickle fork the upper ball joint. Document and keep track of the shims for re-installation.

If you take the upper control arms into any front end shop or even some autozones, they can replace usually the bushings and ball joint for $25 if you don't want to tackle it.

The just make sure you adjust the new tie rods to the old lengths so the alignment is close and drive it to the alignment shop.

 

[georgewe4]

Thanks for the response. Turbotwin2 I don't think they are recommending the pitman arm be replaced...Its listed, but I dont see a price for it. Maybe they mean it has to be removed in order to do the other. Thats the way I'm reading it. I know nothing has ever happened to the car. I think when I do this I will have someone else replace the bushings. All I need is another gray hair.
Guys.. I have never heard of a pickle fork. But what the hey. I'll get one. Does it come with instructions ? I will do both sides with the bushings.

I have noticed over the years that the car just doesn't drive the way it used to. Feels a little sloppy and loose especially on bumpy roads going around a curve. Hopefully this will change things.

 

[UNGN]

Thanks for the response. Turbotwin2 I don't think they are recommending the pitman arm be replaced...Its listed, but I dont see a price for it. Maybe they mean it has to be removed in order to do the other. Thats the way I'm reading it. I know nothing has ever happened to the car. I think when I do this I will have someone else replace the bushings. All I need is another gray hair.
Guys.. I have never heard of a pickle fork. But what the hey. I'll get one. Does it come with instructions ? I will do both sides with the bushings.

I have noticed over the years that the car just doesn't drive the way it used to. Feels a little sloppy and loose especially on bumpy roads going around a curve. Hopefully this will change things.

You mostly will notice the car pull to one side or wiggle or clunk during braking.

A pickle fork can be rented for free from autozone or purchased for around $10. In combination with a BFH it will make short work of the balljoints.

 

[georgewe4]

Hey I know all about BFH's and RBFH's.

 

[8UWITH6]

"Idler arms and Pitman arms (front-right) Remove and replace Idler arm"

You must have gone to a Firestone. The heading in their computer system is "Idler Arms and Pitman Arms". (Front-right) pertains to the passenger side front idler arm..............NOT the pitman. HTH