Ignition drop-out - Translator Plus

[Jerryl]

It's long winded, but hopefully you'll appreciate the journey . . .

I have been having some sporadic VERY LOUD exhaust backfire issues at WOT for about a year and would put $$$$ down on "visible underwear stains" of that Vette driver following the backfire in front of him, under the overpass.

The car gets driven an average of about 3-4 miles/week. So its takes a while to narrow things down, but this one was narrowed it down to spark related. I had already changed plugs, closed the gaps, added/verified grounds, verified system voltage, new Delco Ignition module/coil, RM plug wires, OEM Crank sensor, OEM cam sensor cap, yadi yada . . . . No dice.

Here is something interesting . . . . .
Two weekends ago, I started the car and the battery was bit weak . . . but it started . . . . then I got stranded around the corner of the house (3 turns) on the way to the local show. She would not re-start . . . pushed it home about 100 yards, and realized how out of shape I am.

The following day, it started up (Uhhh?) but only ran for 1 second and died. Thought the battery voltage dropped the previous day when starting, and set the anti-theft in some weird way that allowed it to idle, get me to the corner, and die . . . . Or maybe it is just trying to piss me off. Well I wasn’t . . .LOL. Back to . . . "it only runs for 1 second" . . . I proceed to reset the anti-theft in the chip and started her up, and she stayed running . . . Shut it off after about 10 seconds, hooked up the battery charger . . . try again next week.

Fast forward a week.
So this past weekend, she started right up and idled great. Backed it out, got her cleaned up, washed (sprinkled) the engine bay, pulled it back in to prepare for a visit to the local show . . . . . 3 hours later, cranked and started right up, backed it out, make 6 turns and got stranded again. (Uhh? . . We are making progress). No codes, SM numbers look good for no start/key on, Engine temp 140, FP is solid, No spark . . . . (Let's wait a bit for it to cool down, start it up, and go home?). . . . . Still nothing after 45 min. Sprayed crank sensor to chill it hoping it would start as to not have to tow/push again, no luck. (Hmmm . . Here is an idea . . let’s remove the P&P wiring from the T+ at the module as it may have gotten wet) . . . Removed it, connected the module to factory wire, and she started . . . and stayed running. (Yipeee!!!!) Drove to the car home, started right back up, and drive to the show . . . Stayed for 30 min . . . drove home. No issues.

Went home opened the T+, and saw some moisture on the inside cover. (No, I did not jet spray the engine bay, just misted it) Either way . . . I removed the P&P wire and tucked the ignition side of the T+ away.
We will see what happens next week, but I may be onto something! LOL

I know, only one way to tell if the backfire is resolved . . . but maybe the T+ was the cause of the backfires? Anyone seen this before?
(Yes, I will contact Bob B.)

 

[Shawn N]

Check your module for cracks in the epoxy. I had a 5 month old GM module that would arc and kill the car. It would restart a hour or so later only to die again. My module part # was 24503624.

 

[3.8L V-8 eater]

Sounds like it could be culprit...I have a T+ but mine don't have the harness for use of the spark control...I wouldn't even know what one looked like!!

 

[TurboBob]

as these cars have gotten older, ground offsets and noise have gotten more common with the T+. The T+ gets its ground in the MAF circuit, which goes thru some factory splices and ends up on the back of the passenger side head.

The ignition module has an internal ground that connects thru its mounting bolts as well as tieing into the ECM using the ref low wire.

as the connectors have aged and the grounds have gotten flaky, and plug wires have deteriorated, we start to see issues like that with the T+. Cleaning up
all the grounds and connectors will most likely cure the problem. Or you can unhook the timing connections and set the timing with the chip.

Bob

 

[Jerryl]

Check your module for cracks in the epoxy. . . . .

Thanks for the reply. I had already changed the ignition module twice. Even tried a TYPE II which actually worked well for a while.
Thought I solved it than, but the backfire had returned.

Sounds like it could be culprit... . . .

Sure hope so.. Actually kind off excited to see what will happen, but it looks like more rain this coming weekend. L

as these cars have gotten older, ground offsets and noise have gotten more common with the T+. The T+ gets its ground in the MAF circuit, which goes thru some factory splices and ends up on the back of the passenger side head. . . . . .

Thanks Bob. Does it make sense to splice into the MAF ground and add an extra ground?
Not sure if this would make any difference but thought I would ask.