horrible camber problem/bent frame, bad ball joints etc. help.

[GS70350]

My front tires have worn out after 4000 miles due to a very bad camber problem. the outside of the tires are bald and the insides still have 50% of their tread left.

I hit a curb a while back and i think it tweaked some components of the suspension. Now it has 5 shims on the passenger side control arm, and they say they cant put on any more.

It needs new lower ball joints and upper control arm bushings.

If i want to drive it i need it aligned, and in order to do that these things must be replaced or fixed somehow. I have about 350 dollars that i can spend here tops. I was wondering if the pole position adjustable upper control arms would be able to fix my alignment problem.

I dont want to spend any money on this thing unless im making the suspension better than the crappy stock setup, so if anyone has any budget minded options or recommendations, please shoot me some tips here, because i really need help.

A list of things i need.

Replace lower ball joints (and probably uppers too)
Replace upper control arm bushings
Fix camber problem without paying huge bucks.

Thanks for the help

 

[JP87GN]

If your tires are wearing on the outside then I would say you have to much positive chamber and need to take shims out to bring the upper control arm in to be in spec. and wear more evenly. Do you go to a reputeable alignment shop or just your local tire shop? Some of those guy don't have a clue as to how to correct things that are way out of spec.

 

[Rickracer]

Removing shims on G bodies moves camber positive

Adding shims moves camber negative. .5* negative is a good handling setting, and helps with tire wear under hard driving conditions.

 

[Ormand]

There is an offset shaft for the upper control arm that allows for more adjustment. It's pretty cheap, from Autozone or Advance Auto or PepBoys. Or you can get one from Hotchkiss or Global West, for more $$$

 

[Turbo6inKY]

Originally posted by GS70350


If i want to drive it i need it aligned, and in order to do that these things must be replaced or fixed somehow. I have about 350 dollars that i can spend here tops. I was wondering if the pole position adjustable upper control arms would be able to fix my alignment problem.

The PP arms would be a possible fix, but you need to take it apart and find out what's really broken. You probably killed an upper ball joint, but you won't know for sure until you get it all apart.

Don't even bother with the Hotchkis arms, they're too expensive. The UBMachine arms and the Pole Position arms ideally should be used with 1983 Chevy 1/2 ton pickup truck upper ball joints. The balljoint is taller by about 1", which raises the A-arms off the frame (they can hit at full droop, and will hit worse with the stock joints). This also has the distinct advantage of raising the front roll center height about 3", which makes a HUGE different in the car's handling.

If the stock arms aren't damaged you can just get stock ball joints, but you won't know what to get until you get it apart. So don't buy until you know what you need.

If you smacked a curb, you might want to look at the front wheel bearings too.

If the upper A arm mounts are bent out of whack, hit them back with a hammer. If the arms themselves are bent, then start looking at aftermarket arms. The UBMachine arms would be a the cheapest route. The Pole Positions offer the most adjustability, but might freak out a knuckle-dragging alignment tech (be sure to take the instruction sheet with you to the alignment shop).

If the FRAME is bent (unlikely if it was just a curb), you'll need to get it straightened or cut off and replaced. The PP arms might be able to compensate, but you'll never be able to get it completely right.

While you have it apart, get new bushings and tie rod ends. Examine the pitman arm and the idler arm too.

If you do the work yourself and use the UBMachine arms, you should be able to do the rebuild inside your $350 budget, including the alignment (ask for -.5 degree static camber, 4 degrees caster, and zero toe). Once its done, you won't believe how well the car drives, and the tire wear will be nice and even across the tread.

 

[JP87GN]

Re: Removing shims on G bodies moves camber positive

Originally posted by Rickracer
Adding shims moves camber negative. .5* negative is a good handling setting, and helps with tire wear under hard driving conditions.

My bad! I must have been looking at my car upsidedown and backwards. Your right, adding shims will move camber negative I don't know what I was thinking. Anyways I noticed my car has 4 shims on the pass side and two on the drivers side. Is this normal or should they usually match?

 

[Turbo6inKY]

Re: Re: Removing shims on G bodies moves camber positive

Originally posted by JP87GN
My bad! I must have been looking at my car upsidedown and backwards. Your right, adding shims will move camber negative I don't know what I was thinking. Anyways I noticed my car has 4 shims on the pass side and two on the drivers side. Is this normal or should they usually match?

They will hardly ever match. Its a mid 80s Buick, not a Lexus.

 

[GS70350]

thanks for the suggestions guys. my frame seems fine, and my control arms seem fine upon inspection. the ball joints will need replacing and so will the bushings. i went ahead and put in a couple more shims to get it to about .5 negative camber for the time being. I will be placing an order for the '83 truck ball joints, and probably the UBMachine control arms and new bushings and other components within the next two weeks.

thanks again