G-Body Frame jacking points

Turbo Loyd

Member
Joined
May 26, 2001
After seeing the damage a fellow TR driver has done to his frame thinking he could use a floor jack and jack stands under any part of his frame, decided I would scan and post the page from the shop manual

G-Body%20jack%20points.gif
 
it would be nice if you could just jack them up like the NASCAR guys on tv. the frame on my 78 Ford LTD2 was fully boxed and made out of 1/8" steel, so i could just jam the jack under the middle of the door and jack it up just like the NASCAR guys. it saved so much time putting it up on jack stands compared to my usual jack points on every other full frames rwd car i've owned- the engine crossmember and rear axle center section.
 
You can put the jack on the K-member and rear diff? I've always put the jack and stands under the corners of the frame just inside of the wheels (the cross hatched areas).
 
You can put the jack on the K-member and rear diff? I've always put the jack and stands under the corners of the frame just inside of the wheels (the cross hatched areas).

You sure can, have been doing it for years.
 
Don't jack car up on sway bar. If it's in the way, find an alternative. I've always been able to slip the lip of the jack between bar and pumpkin in the back if that's what you're asking.
 
Why should the bar be avoided? I don't think it will do the solid stock bar any harm to sandwich it between the jack saddle and the pumpkin. That said I wouldn't put it between a jack stand and axle .
 
Don't jack car up on sway bar. If it's in the way, find an alternative. I've always been able to slip the lip of the jack between bar and pumpkin in the back if that's what you're asking.
ThankYou Turboelky ! So You go behind the swaybar on the pumpkin ? That would be my choice but wasnt sure how solid it was? Wasnt going to attempt it on the swaybar itself with out asking first.
 
So Turbo Lloyd, what kind of damage was done to that fellas frame? I've been very careful where the jack and stands were placed but, it would sure save a lot of hassle if I could use any part of the frame.
 
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I can relate! Working on a former Heath Elmer car I found someone had jacked the car up by the frame where the trans crossmember bolts up. Moved the trans mount up so much the u joints were hitting the trans tunnel. Had to get the frame pulled in that area to straighten it out. After a ton of work by me and a trans and rear end rebuild by Bison this poor TR is better than it ever was.
 
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it would be nice if you could just jack them up like the NASCAR guys on tv. the frame on my 78 Ford LTD2 was fully boxed and made out of 1/8" steel, so i could just jam the jack under the middle of the door and jack it up just like the NASCAR guys. it saved so much time putting it up on jack stands compared to my usual jack points on every other full frames rwd car i've owned- the engine crossmember and rear axle center section.

With the Herb Adams sway bars on mine, I can do this.
The front bar is 1 5/16" Dia. with heim joint end links (solid) and ADDCO 3/16" thick poly mid section bushings (very little squish).
The rear bar is 1 1/2" Dia. (ATR style, only bigger) that attaches to the lower control arms.

When jacking up the front frame contact hoist location, the frame raises approx. 4", the front tire raises about 2", then the rear tire comes off the ground.

Just for fun I put a bottle jack under the spring pocket on the front lower A arm. The front tire only comes off the ground 4" before the rear tire comes off the ground.
I put the bottle jack under the rear axle as close the tire as possible, the rear tire only comes off the ground 2" before the other rear tire comes up.

When crossing a heavily crowned road at an angle I can feel the car "teeter" as it transitions over the crown.
The only other suspension mods were ATR performance front springs (stock height), Moog cargo coils on the rear w/ Kenne-Bell lift bars/ lower control arms and Bilstein shocks all around.

I think it's pretty cool.
 
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