Front spring selection for a drag racing application

The Granny

Active Member
Joined
Sep 30, 2015
What kind of spring length/diameter/stiffness are you guys using on the front? I have the stock springs on the front right now and would like to lower the front end an inch or maybe even two? The car will have stock style suspension, not coil overs. Looking to get the springs from here if possible. I attached the best pic of the car I have that shows how the car currently sits height wise.
 

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I have done a few low 9 sec. Regals including mine, and a couple 8 sec. builds which are still street friendly.

None were lowered.

For the front, I use non-AC early front Regal springs and just basic gas shocks, stock lower arms, and the G-Body tube-type uppers. Tried the TRZ lowers once, and the went into the scrap pile.

For the rear, I use all H-R products and the must-have item is the anti-roll bar. The rubber bushings on top of the housing are replaced with spherical bearings.

Springs used are stock rear GN replacement, not load levelers. Shocks are 50-50 drag shocks.

The rear frame brackets, upper and lower, must have reinforcement brackets welded in place.

Also, a 2" steel pipe is welded to the across the frame at the top over the axles.

The trans crossmember if firmly bolted in place without the rubber spacers, and the frame reinforced there too.

Of course, a full cage is mandatory in my experience with a 9 sec. ride!
 
Oh man I could talk your ear off about suspension stuff...but I don't have the experience Nick does. (this is not a sarcastic comment, it is a genuine compliment)

HOWEVER.... being the keyboard ninja that I am, until my tiny metal thing with 6 holes punched in it arrives, I am still free to spout off my personal opinion...


You could go really trick with the springs and get some lightweight (like 2 or 300lb/in) springs and use some nice double adjustable shocks, trim the spring so that you are still at stock ride height or slightly lower, but due to the height of the spring, with it being so soft, you will still theoretically have a fair amount of potential energy (I fucking love talking about this stuff) stored up making your car's weight actually help you hook up at the drag strip, simply by utilizing the potential energy of the suspension.

You would accomplish this by using a softer spring that is much taller than stock spring height...so for example let us say that stock ride height is 10", and the stock front spring rate is 500lb/in, in order to obtain this sweet deal that physics/science has blessed us with, called potential energy, you would need to use a spring of let's say, 200lb/in, but 14" or 16" high. As the new soft spring is so soft, it will compress a bit but you may still need to trim it a little to get the perfect ride height, but the point here is that because the new spring is compressed significantly while the suspension is at your typical ride height, the springs have stored up potential energy in them, waiting to shoot up (what happens to a spring when you compress it? It wants to expand!...fucking A science is making our cars faster dude!) the front of your car, transferring weight, and helping to hook up the rear!

Now, before you say "Well Mr.Marley, if you have such soft springs, your car is going to bounce around all over the place, and I'm the type of douchebag who always tries to find something wrong with someone says so I can pick an e-fight because I am bored with my life" ....well, BEFORE you say that, this is where your shocks come in to play!

To try and paraphrase Mark Savitske, who seriously has more patience than I think Jesus might, because of the amount of time this man will spend explaining to you all this stuff and make sure you understand his book (or even Dave Morgan's or Jerry Bickel's) because he truly loves these cars..anyway, to paraphrase this enigma-of-suspension, he says

"If your suspension was an orchestra, the shocks would be the conductor." <---see how that is all in red, so you pay attention to it? Might be worth reading this longass post to figure out wtf I am ranting on about... Anyway.. what he is trying to convey (sorry Mr.Savitske if I screw this up a little) is that your shocks are the only thing that are actively applying force to another object. They are not reactive, but uh, pro-active?(I don't think they can cure acne though... and I'm pretty sure that isn't the correct term) but essentially all your suspension, except for the shocks, all have to wait for a force to be applied to it in order to react. The shocks are the only thing that doesn't wait for a force to be applied to it, it applies the force....so wtf does that have to do with my add-riddled debacle of a post? Because properly valved shocks, ideally double adjustable ones, can help to control the rise and compression (compression and rebound) of the springs, and prevent your front end from bouncing all over the place.

So how does this help you, Mr.Granny? Well, you may need to try a few different springs, but I believe Jegs has a return policy for them as long as they aren't cut, so you can essentially try a ton for free...just add labor! heh.. So you will want to find some soft trick springs that are good quality, and taller than stock. I honestly forgot the actual equation to figure the height you need, but its something like the weight of the front end / 2, and then something with how much the spring is compressed stock..it is somewhere in Doorslammers by Dave Morgan. I highly recommend you buy that book, btw. But yea, pick some taller than stock (by a few inches) springs that are fairly softer so that they will compress down a fair amount at ride height, and pick up some goodass (that is the technical term, btw.) shocks...like the ones I use by Chris Alston's company Varishock. They look like this:


Before you buy your shocks, ask to see the shock dyno sheet of them, and call around to a few different reputable suspension shops and ask around. I actually returned my Viking shocks once I did some digging and saw their shock dyno sheet, and it looked like a blind kid playing pin-the-tail-on-the-donkey...just all over the place (no offense meant to the blind, sorry I'm an asshole) whereas the Varishock dyno is straight up in the book How to Make Your Muscle Car Handle (by Mark Savitske) ..but I didn't just blindly take what was wrote as truth, I called around and sure enough I got the same answer over and over-they are super reliable and the sheit (that is a Spanish term for "Totally Awesome). So, I bought them for the front and rear of my car!

As for the rest of your stuff...

You want suspension pieces that won't bind and allow for maximum articulation. Which essentially puts a crapshoot on anything with polyurethane bushings. Not saying that stuff won't work. Just saying poly has high rates of stiction (that one is actually a real word) and does in fact bind. Something like a roto-joint, johnny-joint, or the g-pivot...I think it is called that? The one that Chassisworks makes..that one.. all of those allow for max articulation and won't bind.


If you don't wanna weld a giant tube across your rear frame, maybe something like the UMI rear shock tower brace might help..it will at least tie the two sides together... and the HR bar is def wanted. I have a personal theory that although the HR rear swaybar has less rate (a swaybar is essentially a long weird looking spring, and so it has a "rate" just like springs do, this is the force it applies on an object when it is acted upon remember how I said the suspension is re-active except for the shocks?) than the UMI bar, the HR bar may seem to work better because it mounts further into the frame, and although this fundamentally gives it less rate, I imagine the performance gain from mounting the sway bar "arms" further forward on the chassis must have something to do with the leverage points required by these cars..because the UMI is technically a stronger bar, but it uses shorter "arms" than the HR bar... anyway, that is just a personal theory..not saying it makes sense or anything.

And oh, don't go with coilovers. Whatever you do. They suck for drag racing for the front suspension on stock mounting location G-bodies specifically. This ties in with the whole spring potential energy deal...but basically since coilovers use smaller springs that are typically stiffer to give added handling performance, they don't have as much, or any, potential energy in them when you launch...now you can adjust the coilovers to add preload, but before some jerk replies with that comment, how many people on here are going to really be able to maximize coilover spring preload and get that right, vs. just twisting a knob on a double adjustable shock?


So yea, did I bore you yet? Can you tell that I just drank an entire Rockstar in like 5 minutes just a little bit ago?

And yes, I can back up everything that I have just claimed with multiple references from text.

Science and physics make cars go fast. I wish I paid more attention in school now that I know it can help me make my car better than yours.

Side note- I have a feeling that if anyone actually reads this, I am going to get a LOT of shit for it...

and oh, if you want to learn about Bump Steer on these cars, I did a kinda not-so-crappy write up with diagrams and whatnot in my build thread. Here is the link to the post: http://www.turbobuick.com/threads/m...2-street-car-build.362094/page-6#post-3749305
 
My 2 cents....

I bought Landrum springs and had them in my car for the long travel and extra potential energy. Actually went through a couple different ones until I got the right ones. Had the ride height set perfect and lots of suspension travel up front. That being said, they rode like crap and would bottom out easy when hitting the breaks hard. After putting in some spring spacers to prevent that it still was very loose up front. Probably could have helped hook on a crappy or unprepped track where a lot of weight transfer would be needed but I race on halfway decent tracks.

I got tired of the crappy feeling and put my stiffer SPC springs back on that I had bought from Savitske. Felt a lot better and hooked just as good if not better. Nothing worse than low 1.3 60fts next 4 track outings on a 9 sec car. I'll never put the low rate long travel springs back on. I know that's what people have recommended and why I put those springs on originally. But my suspension is set up correctly and the car barely rises anyway on launch and it just wasn't needed for me and I think would be dangerous on the top end if I had to hit the brakes hard for something. Which unfortunately did happen to me at the top end of the track not long after I had put the stiffer springs back on. Car barely flinched even if my heart did skip a few beats. If I had the soft springs on up front I am pretty sure I would have ended up in the wall. Kinda like when you see cars swerve and the front end dives and a rear wheel lifts off the ground and then it crashes. Not for me.

And as far as rear setup... if you race on drag radials you want no deflection in the rear so it can dead hook. Solid bushings in all control arms and rear end ears along with a weld in bar like Wolfe or TRZ. Double adj rear shocks. And fix the instant center with some kind of relocation kit.
 
My 2 cents....

I bought Landrum springs and had them in my car for the long travel and extra potential energy. Actually went through a couple different ones until I got the right ones. Had the ride height set perfect and lots of suspension travel up front. That being said, they rode like crap and would bottom out easy when hitting the breaks hard. After putting in some spring spacers to prevent that it still was very loose up front. Probably could have helped hook on a crappy or unprepped track where a lot of weight transfer would be needed but I race on halfway decent tracks.

I got tired of the crappy feeling and put my stiffer SPC springs back on that I had bought from Savitske. Felt a lot better and hooked just as good if not better. Nothing worse than low 1.3 60fts next 4 track outings on a 9 sec car. I'll never put the low rate long travel springs back on. I know that's what people have recommended and why I put those springs on originally. But my suspension is set up correctly and the car barely rises anyway on launch and it just wasn't needed for me and I think would be dangerous on the top end if I had to hit the brakes hard for something. Which unfortunately did happen to me at the top end of the track not long after I had put the stiffer springs back on. Car barely flinched even if my heart did skip a few beats. If I had the soft springs on up front I am pretty sure I would have ended up in the wall. Kinda like when you see cars swerve and the front end dives and a rear wheel lifts off the ground and then it crashes. Not for me.

And as far as rear setup... if you race on drag radials you want no deflection in the rear so it can dead hook. Solid bushings in all control arms and rear end ears along with a weld in bar like Wolfe or TRZ. Double adj rear shocks. And fix the instant center with some kind of relocation kit.

Mark will say that the SPC springs they offer (if you're talking the ones in the F and R kit) will still work well on the street and strip, even with them being a little stiffer.
 

Thank you both for your opinions and experience, I want to do it right the first time and this is why I'm looking for advice.

To clarify, I'd like to lower the car in both the front and back not only in an attempt to maximize performance, but for aesthetics also. I can accomplish this in the rear when I put my adjustable spring perches on. I'll be using AFCO's BNC shocks in the front. I haven't installed them yet, and to Tyler's point about seeing how the shocks perform on a dyno I plan on calling afco tomorrow and getting a dyno sheet. I tried looking for an example of one on both here and yellowbullet but couldn't find one, so when I get mine I'll post it here for sure.

Back to my main question about what spring rate to use, I understand that the perfect rate from one car to another will vary because of the different weights but I'm looking for a range at least to guide me in the right direction. So Tyler mentioned 200-300, has anyone used a spring in this range with success? If so what kind of ETs were ran?

Tyler you posted a lot of good info there and I have read through your build thread, maybe you should lay off the energy it seems to be messing with your memory :eek: You and I talked for hours one night about a month ago about the suspension on our cars, and I want to thank you for time it took to do it.
 
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My 2 cents....

I bought Landrum springs and had them in my car for the long travel and extra potential energy. Actually went through a couple different ones until I got the right ones. Had the ride height set perfect and lots of suspension travel up front. That being said, they rode like crap and would bottom out easy when hitting the breaks hard. After putting in some spring spacers to prevent that it still was very loose up front. Probably could have helped hook on a crappy or unprepped track where a lot of weight transfer would be needed but I race on halfway decent tracks.

I got tired of the crappy feeling and put my stiffer SPC springs back on that I had bought from Savitske. Felt a lot better and hooked just as good if not better. Nothing worse than low 1.3 60fts next 4 track outings on a 9 sec car. I'll never put the low rate long travel springs back on. I know that's what people have recommended and why I put those springs on originally. But my suspension is set up correctly and the car barely rises anyway on launch and it just wasn't needed for me and I think would be dangerous on the top end if I had to hit the brakes hard for something. Which unfortunately did happen to me at the top end of the track not long after I had put the stiffer springs back on. Car barely flinched even if my heart did skip a few beats. If I had the soft springs on up front I am pretty sure I would have ended up in the wall. Kinda like when you see cars swerve and the front end dives and a rear wheel lifts off the ground and then it crashes. Not for me.

And as far as rear setup... if you race on drag radials you want no deflection in the rear so it can dead hook. Solid bushings in all control arms and rear end ears along with a weld in bar like Wolfe or TRZ. Double adj rear shocks. And fix the instant center with some kind of relocation kit.
I called Savitske to ask him about the springs he sells, and he says his wouldn't be ideal on a drag car, that they're too stiff.. His spring are 535-550 lb/in, do you remember what spring rate the Landrums you had were? It sounds like you had some that were way too soft for sure if you had issues bottoming out.

My RCA will have solid bushings, I got the uppers and lowers from baseline. I got TRZs bar as well. Rear shocks are SA QA1s that I bought used for what I thought at the time was a good deal.. the more I research it seems like I shouldn't even put them on and sell them to fund for a nice set of DAs
 
I had 18-200 spring on the front. My car is very light up front also. I purchased them through Santhuff and had them spec them out for me. The next stiffest one had the ride height way too high and the 18-200 were fine except I needed a hair stiffer so it wouldn't bottom out on the tire under hard breaking. My car is also lowered already so not as much clearance as others before it would hit the tire. No issue with the car hooking but I did not like the feel at all.

Once the rear suspension is set up correctly the front doesn't rise much anyway. As you get faster you stiffen up the front to prevent wheelies also. If you want to hook on crap then yes, you need a lot of weight transfer. But on a decent track with a lot of power, if your front end rises a lot you will wheelie. Even with the SPC lowering springs I still have a lot of travel up front. TRZ pro upper and lower front arms. The pros have heim ends so there is no bind at all in my front end. Single adj Strange shocks up front. I went with the TRZ setup because I thought I needed a lot of free travel and the long low rate springs up front but really the problem was the rear setup. Once that is set up correctly the front didn't matter near as much.

We have the same rear setup, Baseline and TRZ. I have double adj Strange shocks and constant rate coilover springs on Wolf adjustable perches. For drag radials loose on extension to dead hook and tight on compression to keep them planted.
 
I had 18-200 spring on the front. My car is very light up front also. I purchased them through Santhuff and had them spec them out for me. The next stiffest one had the ride height way too high and the 18-200 were fine except I needed a hair stiffer so it wouldn't bottom out on the tire under hard breaking. My car is also lowered already so not as much clearance as others before it would hit the tire. No issue with the car hooking but I did not like the feel at all.

Once the rear suspension is set up correctly the front doesn't rise much anyway. As you get faster you stiffen up the front to prevent wheelies also. If you want to hook on crap then yes, you need a lot of weight transfer. But on a decent track with a lot of power, if your front end rises a lot you will wheelie. Even with the SPC lowering springs I still have a lot of travel up front. TRZ pro upper and lower front arms. The pros have heim ends so there is no bind at all in my front end. Single adj Strange shocks up front. I went with the TRZ setup because I thought I needed a lot of free travel and the long low rate springs up front but really the problem was the rear setup. Once that is set up correctly the front didn't matter near as much.

We have the same rear setup, Baseline and TRZ. I have double adj Strange shocks and constant rate coilover springs on Wolf adjustable perches. For drag radials loose on extension to dead hook and tight on compression to keep them planted.

I haven't scaled my car yet so I don't know the exact weights but it is basically all stock, no power seats or Windows, minus the spare tire and Jack and front away bar. the TRZ arms will be my only area of weight reduction so far in the front. I do plan on getting the car scaled soon though that way I can know how much force is one the front end that way I can pick a spring that'll give me the height and weight transfer I'm looking for safely


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.........To clarify, I'd like to lower the car in both the front and back not only in an attempt to maximize performance, but for aesthetics also. I can accomplish this in the rear when I put my adjustable spring perches on..............

Just my experience on a few GN's, lowering the car will degrade drag strip performance, especially on the launch.

If you are planning to have 7 or 8 sec. performance, do a complete back-half conversion and the car can be lower and run awesome with a 1000+ HP drivetrain!

One factor you have not published, is this car being built for an occasional 9 sec. pass, or do you plan to run in competition?

Your comments and plan is for a fun car that can run a 9, I have one street car like that, but my comments here apply to a car built to win races!
 
Just my experience on a few GN's, lowering the car will degrade drag strip performance, especially on the launch.

If you are planning to have 7 or 8 sec. performance, do a complete back-half conversion and the car can be lower and run awesome with a 1000+ HP drivetrain!

One factor you have not published, is this car being built for an occasional 9 sec. pass, or do you plan to run in competition?

Your comments and plan is for a fun car that can run a 9, I have one street car like that, but my comments here apply to a car built to win races!

I hear ya, it's definitely not a 7 or 8 sec car. It's not going to be a 100% drag car but I do plan on competing if the opportunity ever presents itself. I'll be driving it on the street probably once or twice a week, and taking it to the track as much as possible to learn more about the car and how to fine tune the suspension. I want to be able take the 109 I have right now into the 9s for sure. In the future I eventually plan on doing a stage/ta block build and using it to primarily compete. Until that time comes I want to push the combo I have now as far as it'll go, safely and efficiently


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I called Savitske to ask him about the springs he sells, and he says his wouldn't be ideal on a drag car, that they're too stiff.. His spring are 535-550 lb/in, do you remember what spring rate the Landrums you had were? It sounds like you had some that were way too soft for sure if you had issues bottoming out.

My RCA will have solid bushings, I got the uppers and lowers from baseline. I got TRZs bar as well. Rear shocks are SA QA1s that I bought used for what I thought at the time was a good deal.. the more I research it seems like I shouldn't even put them on and sell them to fund for a nice set of DAs

I'm using the baseline uppers as well, with UMI DA lowers with roto joints and the UMI rear lower relocation bracket.

IMO, pick up that rear lower relocation bracket. The effect the moment arm has on the rear end planting the tires is significant. We don't nececesarily have to deal with wrap up (oh, the youngster knows fancy words!) but assuming the swaybar is keeping the chassis level, the effect the IC has on planting the tires is huge.

Its like a bigass see-saw, in a "I just wokeup at 11am and this is the best description you're gonna get" kinda way. The force on the rear end is dicpotatoed by the IC location...longer and lower has less force on the rear, higher and closer (to the rear end itself) has much more violent -like Star Wars but in real life type shit- reaction.

So, we have this imaginary spot called the IC (instant Center) and we need to figure out where the hell the right place for it to be is located (like finding the gold at the end of a rainbow, or two chicks at once) and we calculate that through drawing an imaginary line through the upper and lower CAs in the rear, forward. So you're gonna see a triangle converging at some point. At the end of your magic suspension triangle, that is the Instant Center...this is like, the "safe tree" where all things magical happen, you're gf doesn't get mad at you for not doing the dishes, and your kids stop making noise when you're trying to sleep in...see, magical? Depending where this IC is located, it will effect your rear end hook up. This is due to the moment arm (invisible see-saw) that pivots on the rear end LCA and the IC. The angle, height,location, whether it had breakfast that morning, all of that effects the moment arm.

To try and quote an article that basically stole pages from Bickel's book, here is that Jerry Bickel said about the rear end and suspension tuning:

"If a car has too much 'bite' and rattles/shakes the tires, you would want to try raising the front of the rear LCA. If you move the front of the RLCA up, make sure to keep the same distance between mounting points (bolt holes) on the UCA and LCA, also called the 'spread', By moving the front of the RLCA it will lessen how much the rear compresses, and will let the tire try to spin more rather than put pressure on the tire. You can calculate the engle o rear LCA by knowing the distance of center rear bolt hole to ground and front bolt hole to ground."

In a separate article, dealing with where to pick your IC starting points- "Long, low intersect points create traction for the longest time, but react slowly. Short, high intersect points create traction for the least time, but react fast."

So wtf does this all mean? It means we need to understand just what in the hell we are actually doing when we make these changes to our suspension, so we don't go backwards and start making the wrong adjustments.

As a side note, Bickel does say that AT cars typically work best with the IC about 1-2 inches off the ground.

Thank you both for your opinions and experience, I want to do it right the first time and this is why I'm looking for advice.

To clarify, I'd like to lower the car in both the front and back not only in an attempt to maximize performance, but for aesthetics also. I can accomplish this in the rear when I put my adjustable spring perches on. I'll be using AFCO's BNC shocks in the front. I haven't installed them yet, and to Tyler's point about seeing how the shocks perform on a dyno I plan on calling afco tomorrow and getting a dyno sheet. I tried looking for an example of one on both here and yellowbullet but couldn't find one, so when I get mine I'll post it here for sure.

Back to my main question about what spring rate to use, I understand that the perfect rate from one car to another will vary because of the different weights but I'm looking for a range at least to guide me in the right direction. So Tyler mentioned 200-300, has anyone used a spring in this range with success? If so what kind of ETs were ran?

Tyler you posted a lot of good info there and I have read through your build thread, maybe you should lay off the energy it seems to be messing with your memory :eek: You and I talked for hours one night about a month ago about the suspension on our cars, and I want to thank you for time it took to do it.

Those AFCOs are niceee. Please post up what you find about the AFCO shocks. If I didn't have stock mounting positions, I would try and spring for a set of JRI shocks.. mmmm suspension boner...

FWIW I took out my AC/heater box / PS/ lightended up every piece of suspension (front and rear) and am going TA block with alumoomimaimium heads, so I figured in the neighborhood of around 250ish lbs off the front. I am trying some 220lb Moroso springs first, just to get a baseline. I will probably need to go a bit stiffer, but I won't know until the motor goes in the car.

And I actually did remember our conversation after I posted...your SN stuck out and I kept wondering where the hell I knew it from..

Until you scale your car, you really won't be able to pick out the finer aspects of the suspension, like springs/rate, because you do not know how much weight it needs to hold up and how much force it needs to apply.

Scale your car first. Then look for springs.
 
Scale your car first. Then look for springs.

With the new springs and perches i'll be putting on I'll look at how the LCA is angled to the ground, I've talked with Kevin S. briefly about what I'd be getting into as far as correcting the IC and he said if you can lower the car so the LCA's are parallel with the ground then the geometry should be good to go w/o any testing. So I plan on giving this a shot and seeing how well it turns out before I start messing with the LCA mount, if I even need to.

I'll definitely post the dyno sheet for them, and once I get the time to scale the car I'll post up the weights. I'll also measure and plot the suspension I have now (stock) just for fun, and post that too

Here's a pretty informative link for reference I just ran across: http://www.onallcylinders.com/2015/...e-to-tuning-your-four-link-suspension-system/
 
With the new springs and perches i'll be putting on I'll look at how the LCA is angled to the ground, I've talked with Kevin S. briefly about what I'd be getting into as far as correcting the IC and he said if you can lower the car so the LCA's are parallel with the ground then the geometry should be good to go w/o any testing. So I plan on giving this a shot and seeing how well it turns out before I start messing with the LCA mount, if I even need to.

I'll definitely post the dyno sheet for them, and once I get the time to scale the car I'll post up the weights. I'll also measure and plot the suspension I have now (stock) just for fun, and post that too

Here's a pretty informative link for reference I just ran across: http://www.onallcylinders.com/2015/...e-to-tuning-your-four-link-suspension-system/

pffft...after all I wrote, that is the only thing you respond to! hahah!

On a side note- did what I wrote make sense at all?

Yea, you def want to get the LCAs parallel to start with.

Honestly, from what I've been finding out, we can screw up our suspension more by messing with the top CA angle, than with the LCA angle, which is why I recommend getting the UMI brackets and adjusting those first. Mark Savitske straight up told me to not mess with the UCA mounting bolts until I tried the LCA mounting locations first.

That is a good article. It is in my "hot rod" binder :)

These are also great:
http://www.baselinesuspensions.com/info/Launching_A_Drag_Car.htm

http://www.racingjunk.com/news/2014/05/09/drag-race-suspension-tuning/

https://www.cachassisworks.com/Attachments/Instructions/899-031-214.pdf

http://www.how-to-build-hotrods.com/tuning-4-link.html

http://www.rapid-racer.com/suspension-tuning.php

http://www.racingjunk.com/forums/showthread.php?17130-4-Link-Basics-Theory-amp-Help-Instructions


I would really recommend getting Dave Morgan and Jerry Bickel's book. Savitske's book is great starting point. Morgan's book takes it a little further and gives you a lot of ways to do your own backyard tuning, and Bickel's book is like the "how to implement this in the real world" kinda book.
 
I would really recommend getting Dave Morgan and Jerry Bickel's book. Savitske's book is great starting point. Morgan's book takes it a little further and gives you a lot of ways to do your own backyard tuning, and Bickel's book is like the "how to implement this in the real world" kinda book.
My bad :eek: I really do appreciate it, and it does make sense for sure. I'm just itching to get the chance to apply everything I've learned so far. Whenever I do make a change I'll keep track of what I did either on my laptop or a notebook, plot it on AutoCAD (I don't know any other way to do it) and take a video of the launch. It'll be fun for sure, just a few more weeks of school and I'll be home for the summer to finally start attacking the boxes of parts that are piling up in my room. Those are some good links you posted too THANK YOU ;)
 
My bad :eek: I really do appreciate it, and it does make sense for sure. I'm just itching to get the chance to apply everything I've learned so far. Whenever I do make a change I'll keep track of what I did either on my laptop or a notebook, plot it on AutoCAD (I don't know any other way to do it) and take a video of the launch. It'll be fun for sure, just a few more weeks of school and I'll be home for the summer to finally start attacking the boxes of parts that are piling up in my room. Those are some good links you posted too THANK YOU ;)

Yea man I'm def down to share what I have learned..i dunno if it is right, but it is what I've picked up from dudes way smarter than I..

Realtalk tho dude- did what I type up make sense? Cause I've been toying with the idea of making a bigass writeup of suspension stuff that applies to our cars. Like a "how to figure out complicated shit written by a Californian dumbass who tries to make it simple" kinda thing.

What you think?
 
Yea man I'm def down to share what I have learned..i dunno if it is right, but it is what I've picked up from dudes way smarter than I..

Realtalk tho dude- did what I type up make sense? Cause I've been toying with the idea of making a bigass writeup of suspension stuff that applies to our cars. Like a "how to figure out complicated shit written by a Californian dumbass who tries to make it simple" kinda thing.

What you think?

I'll shoot you a text, do you still have the same #? if not pm me here


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