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Discussion in 'E85 Technical Forum' started by czimpel, Jul 13, 2017.
Those should be OK.
No not necessarily , but every car is different and many like to run non-projected tip plugs on E85 & TR6 . These are a good , cheap & readily available option .
Did you get to fix the wide band ground? The wide band ground has to carry the amps for both the sensor controller and the sensor heater. Grounding it to the powerlogger block stands a good chance of overloading that circuit (through the powerlogger / ECM).
The ECM is grounded to the engine, so if you ground the wide band to the engine you should have near zero ground offset. The WB controller reading should then match well with it's analog output.
Looks like a good plug. Same heat range as an R42 but its non-projected.
This is the plug I switched to after the non-resistor plug issues myself and others had a while back . No problems now .
I haven't yet, but will do this tomorrow.
Just for info, I have it still grounded to the body, but added a second eyelet with a ground wire to the PL #6.
I took it out for a run quick this morning after turning my boost controller down, but my boost actually went up. I'm including this run file to see that the KR actually wasn't as bad. I'm still going to ground the WB to the block, pull the plugs, and unhook my WG rod for a low boost pull.
I moved the ground this morning and it seems to be a lot close of reading. Also pulled a plug from each bank. It was hard to get in focus close ups, let me know if you need some better pics to see what you are looking for.
Best to look at them through a magnifying glass but from here they look nice. No speckles apparent.
Also found this.Could this be causing it.
Made a couple runs with the WG rod disconnected. One was clean the other had some KR. Still get 15-16 lbs of boost with it disconnected.
The low boost pulls are pretty rich. Might be "rich knock" like you were suspecting.
I richened it up to 11.3 today and made a couple pulls with very little KR. One thing that I notice is that it always seem to appear right at 4800 RPM. Could this be from some weird harmonic that the motor is creating with something that rattles?
Is there catalytic converter on the car? Could it be corroded out and start rattling once it hits that RPM?
Seems you're grasping at straws now, so..........WTH, thought I'd throw that out there.
Always something with these cars..... gotta love 'em!
No cat. Thanks for the idea though.
I've slowly been looking for rattling pieces and parts. I think it was actually a combination of my WB being off due to my ground and being a little rich for what my motor likes. I was just nervous about running it too lean, but it seems the leaner I go the less KR I'm seeing.
Does your wb require calibration? Maybe it's not reading accurately or needs replacing.
It's not the one that can be calibrated. It's an AEM 34-3100???
That motor mount could certainly cause a false signal. I had one once with a broken bolt (bracket to block bolt)