External waste gate??

10secvega

Member
Joined
Jan 20, 2005
I'm thinking about switching over to an external wastegate.Can i use the internal wastegate downpipe i have now andd use he RJC block off plate,then just add piping for the external waste?

I currently have a 6776 bb what size waste gate should i go with 38mm?
 
i am sure you will have to use the rjc block off unless you get a downpipe for an external gate. i would go with a Tial 44mm if you plan on putting some race fuel in everynow and then. the 44 has the good valve and v-band clamps.....Bob
 
I would use that rjc block off plate, and insert a freeze plug in the exhaust housing hole that the internal gate works off.
Usually down pipes leak in that area, so the freeze plug would be added insurance.

I too would go with the tial 44mm wastegate, make sure you DO NOT buy a fake one! if they are costing $150, your not getting a real tial gate. Plumb that bad boy off of the header, not off the exhaust housing if thats a t-netics. The header is the best way to go. If you have somebody competent to do plumbing, unless you do it, plumb the exhaust off the gate back into the down pipe. This will quiet it up completely. You can also dump it into atmosphere, the tial's are not too loud. I have found, if you dump it atmosphere, put a 90 deg. bend in the gate's exhaust pipe. If you go straight out of the gate with no bend, it is really loud.

hope that helps!
 
I would use that rjc block off plate, and insert a freeze plug in the exhaust housing hole that the internal gate works off.
Usually down pipes leak in that area, so the freeze plug would be added insurance.

I too would go with the tial 44mm wastegate, make sure you DO NOT buy a fake one! if they are costing $150, your not getting a real tial gate. Plumb that bad boy off of the header, not off the exhaust housing if thats a t-netics. The header is the best way to go. If you have somebody competent to do plumbing, unless you do it, plumb the exhaust off the gate back into the down pipe. This will quiet it up completely. You can also dump it into atmosphere, the tial's are not too loud. I have found, if you dump it atmosphere, put a 90 deg. bend in the gate's exhaust pipe. If you go straight out of the gate with no bend, it is really loud.

hope that helps!
Well,i was going to remake my downpipe and run it off the exhaust housing.I can fab it off the header and just weld the stock wastegate swing arm close.
What are the benefits of running it off the header compared to the exhaust housing?
This is a pic of my current setup.I made all the piping and downpipe myself.
100_1677.jpg
 
You could weld the puck shut, but I would just pop a freeze plug in there. If you welded the puck shut, that doesn't make it 100% leak proof, a freeze plug would. Some people were running t-netics wastegates off of their exhaust housing's since they had the provision for it, the springs in the waste gate would heat up, causing them to weaken and not hold boost as well.

Running it off the header makes most sense. Think of this;
if there was a 44mm hole in the header, or a maybe 20mm hole in the exhaust housing, which would loose more air?
Running it off the header is more efficient, especially with big turbos. The boost is released before it gets to spin the exhaust wheel as much. Running it through the exhaust housing hole basically would give the turbo a chance to spool, and the gate would be not as efficient evacuating air as the hole in the header would be.

If you go off the header, make sure you weld a support brace from as close to the gate's flange as possible, back to the header. My buddy's gate fell off my header because there was no support for the weight. The welds were beautiful, but the fabrication was poor.

I'm sure somebody will be more scientific about things than me, but I'm sure you'll get the picture:D
 
I decided to go off the header.Can anyone recomend a good decent priced boost controller?

you want to stay away from those expensive electronic boost controllers, unless you want to pull your hair out!!:eek:
I use what was recommended to me by another member/buddy of mine. Go buy yourself a air compressor regulator, done deal. try to stay away from plastic t's for vac line connections, they tend to become brittle with the heat. a compressor regulator costs anywhere from 10-25 bucks. Turbonetics sells them, only difference is they come with a bracket for mounting.
 
I used an offshore 3.5SS internal wastegate DP with the RJC block off plate, I had a Tial V44 gate installed and routed back into the DP. Fits great and works awesome with the AMS 500 boost controller.

Datar
 

Attachments

  • Grand National Stroker motor and Dave's twin turbo bird 007 [640x480].jpg
    Grand National Stroker motor and Dave's twin turbo bird 007 [640x480].jpg
    97 KB · Views: 8,989
  • Grand National Stroker motor and Dave's twin turbo bird 008 [640x480].jpg
    Grand National Stroker motor and Dave's twin turbo bird 008 [640x480].jpg
    94.8 KB · Views: 6,924
I used an offshore 3.5SS internal wastegate DP with the RJC block off plate, I had a Tial V44 gate installed and routed back into the DP. Fits great and works awesome with the AMS 500 boost controller.

Datar

What type of trans brake do you run?How do you comtrol the first stage of the boost?
I run a stage rite brake,i could use a micro switch to engage the first stage.
 
I used an offshore 3.5SS internal wastegate DP with the RJC block off plate, I had a Tial V44 gate installed and routed back into the DP. Fits great and works awesome with the AMS 500 boost controller.

Datar

im hoping this was during the install. if not you might want to put a zip tie one these hoses and push the hose all the way on the fitting here.
 

Attachments

  • Grand%20National%20Stroker%20motor%20and%20Dave%27s%20twin%20turbo%20bird%20007%20%5B640x480%5D.jpg
    Grand%20National%20Stroker%20motor%20and%20Dave%27s%20twin%20turbo%20bird%20007%20%5B640x480%5D.jpg
    59.8 KB · Views: 4,281
Top