Engine choke 5psi boost

[Ttype6]

But how to find out its defective? I have a switch where the ashtray was but thats it, seems power is there but still dont know if it even works


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You'll need to monitor voltage on the line that feeds power to the pump. You'll find it back behind the gas tank. You could pressurize the hobbs switch that activates the boost-a-pump with compressed air. When you do this,you should see the voltage to the pump increase. The boost-a-pump is not my preferred way to increase voltage to the pump because it only increases pump voltage. If it functions properly,it's not your problem and you can continue using it for now. I would install a hot wire kit to the pump and install a volt booster. If you bought a volt booster from Dave Husek,the voltage to the computer and ignition would be increased also and the devise only weighs a few ounces. You do need to monitor fuel pressure to know where you are. If fuel pressure rises from its base setting indirect proportion to boost,fuel flow is not your problem. The first thing to check is your positive battery cable next to the downpipe. It will be easy to tell if it's been in contact with the downpipe. There is a possibility that voltage drops to zero when the boost-a-pump is activated. You'll be able to figure this out when you test it.

 

[TURBOELKY]

I've had a clogged return line. Pressure dropped under load.

I take that back. It was 2005 when I built my hybrid setup. I mixed up the return line with the vent line on my sending unit. The small orifice that acts as the vent was working as my return line. The obstruction caused my fuel pressure to drop when I went into boost. My dumb ass cracked 5 pistons. Lesson learned. Regardless, until there's a fuel pressure gauge mounted in sight while driving, there is no eliminating the fuel system. Good luck man.

 

[TURBOELKY]

You'll need to monitor voltage on the line that feeds power to the pump. You'll find it back behind the gas tank. You could pressurize the hobbs switch that activates the boost-a-pump with compressed air. When you do this,you should see the voltage to the pump increase. The boost-a-pump is not my preferred way to increase voltage to the pump because it only increases pump voltage. If it functions properly,it's not your problem and you can continue using it for now. I would install a hot wire kit to the pump and install a volt booster. If you bought a volt booster from Dave Husek,the voltage to the computer and ignition would be increased also and the devise only weighs a few ounces. You do need to monitor fuel pressure to know where you are. If fuel pressure rises from its base setting indirect proportion to boost,fuel flow is not your problem. The first thing to check is your positive battery cable next to the downpipe. It will be easy to tell if it's been in contact with the downpipe. There is a possibility that voltage drops to zero when the boost-a-pump is activated. You'll be able to figure this out when you test it.

We may be talking about two different "boost a pump"? The one I was referring to is an actual external fuel pump mounted along the frame of the car, not a Hobbs switch. Maybe we had some confusion here between us?

 

[Ttype6]

The external pump was called a booster pump. It does add increased fuel flow on top of the flow created by the in tank pump. I think the OP has a boost-a-pump which increases the voltage to the in tank pump.

 

[Geezy]

The external pump was called a booster pump. It does add increased fuel flow on top of the flow created by the in tank pump. I think the OP has a boost-a-pump which increases the voltage to the in tank pump.

I have a kenne bell boost a pump. I dint even know it was there till I got the car running in June, my GN has been garaged parked for 14 years so technically it a barn find lol


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[Geezy]

I have a kenne bell boost a pump. I dint even know it was there till I got the car running in June, my GN has been garaged parked for 14 years so technically it a barn find lol


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I have a feeling that issue is the starter cable, I changed the starter to a mini when I first got the car running. Before the swap I test drove the car on high boost and it never cut off wasn't till after the swap that it cut off,I took it to a shop and am waiting on what the issue is but I like to do research as well.


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[Ttype6]

I have a feeling that issue is the starter cable, I changed the starter to a mini when I first got the car running. Before the swap I test drove the car on high boost and it never cut off wasn't till after the swap that it cut off,I took it to a shop and am waiting on what the issue is but I like to do research as well.


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The positive cable is the only thing that has caused my engine to turn off under power. If the OP had a Powerlogger,and the cable was the cause of his problem,it would show up in a recording.

 

[Drewster]

How does it run when you roll into a bit of boost like going up a hill?
Last thing changed is usually a good place to start.
Bad TPS will make it stumble like mad when it hits the bad spot (i.e. half throttle ) and and not set a code. Will run just fine till then.


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[Geezy]

How does it run when you roll into a bit of boost like going up a hill?
Last thing changed is usually a good place to start.
Bad TPS will make it stumble like mad when it hits the bad spot (i.e. half throttle ) and and not set a code. Will run just fine till then.


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Run smooth no rough idle or struggle, just cuts off after driving a few blocks under boost

 

[Ttype6]

Run smooth no rough idle or struggle, just cuts off after driving a few blocks under boost

Are you saying that this thing cuts out after several seconds of full throttle operation or as soon as boost rises?

 

[Geezy]

Are you saying that this thing cuts out after several seconds of full throttle operation or as soon as boost rises?

I can drive a few blocks under high boost and then just cuts off no codes noise, nothing starts right up after I come to a stop


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[TurboBuRick]

So it dies when you let off the gas? If so it sounds like the IAC is possibly sticky or in need of adjustment.

 

[jasjamz]

What chip is in the car? I remember the old chips like ATR pitbull would stall on cars with K&N cone filters after hard throttle and then braking to stop. Erics chip and all the other now stuff address this issue.

 

[Ttype6]

I can drive a few blocks under high boost and then just cuts off no codes noise, nothing starts right up after I come to a stop


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So,you are at full throttle for a distance of two block and then,while still at full throttle,the engine shuts off in the same way that it does when you turn the ignition switch to off?

 

[Geezy]

So,you are at full throttle for a distance of two block and then,while still at full throttle,the engine shuts off in the same way that it does when you turn the ignition switch to off?

Yes, lights oil/choke come on and just cuts off. Car is stock, it did it with stock intake and now with maf and k&n filter, its at a shop right now, they told me on Friday that it will be repaired by today, well see and I will update the thread with the issue for the forum in case anyone else has this problem


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[Geezy]

What chip is in the car? I remember the old chips like ATR pitbull would stall on cars with K&N cone filters after hard throttle and then braking to stop. Erics chip and all the other now stuff address this issue.

Stock chip, I assume I have not upgraded anything.


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[jasjamz]

If this is happening while the car is at WOT then just dies, I doubt its the chip. However for the price of the chip... I'd pull the stock chip anyway. The car will generally run better outside of your stalling issue.

 

[Geezy]

Stock chip, I assume I have not upgraded anything.


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What chip should I go with? i want to keep stock just run better


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[TurboBuRick]

Good luck with the shop. Unless they have someone who knows turbo buicks your pissing in the wind. Just saying..

 

[jasjamz]

Turbo Tweak 5.7
Get a Scanmaster if you dont have one.
Where are you located?