engine break in

tford

Registered Member
Joined
Nov 17, 2004
When you first fire a freshly built engine, aren't you risking metal flakes running through the turbo? The reason I'm asking is because the new engine already has a good filter, but I have a turbosaver kit from trcustoms to install. I just ordered a cartridge filter for $25 shipped. If I install it before firing the engine, then I probably should replace with another new cartridge, right? Seems silly to spend $50 in cartridge filters when the engine already has a good filter now (Wix). Any opinions/input? Thanks
 
Well the turbo saver is there so it gets clean oil to the turbo . I would cut open and change both filters after break In .if you have abunch of metal in the oil after a rebuild that wouldn't be a good sign . You don't wana see any metal at all . Did u flush your oil cooler ?
 
I am getting the oil cooler flushed before I start it. I was told after first 20 minutes of runtime, there will be some metal but not a lot. What I was asking was is there any reason to remove the wix filter and change to the turbo saver before I start it? If I do, I'm throwing away a brand new filter. If I change to the turbo saver cartridge, then I will need another one after the 20 minutes initial runtime.
 
I am getting the oil cooler flushed before I start it. I was told after first 20 minutes of runtime, there will be some metal but not a lot. What I was asking was is there any reason to remove the wix filter and change to the turbo saver before I start it? If I do, I'm throwing away a brand new filter. If I change to the turbo saver cartridge, then I will need another one after the 20 minutes initial runtime.
I got what you are asking and i am just saying if there was any metal in the oil I would change them . That's just me though and I'm sure you can make the right call when you see the oil and what's in it
 
If I leave the wix on for startup only, will the small bits of metal hurt the turbo running for 20 minutes at 2k rpm? I understand there should be no metal at all but after a fresh rebuild I know there will be trace amounts.
 
If you warm the oil then put it in, the filter should not need to bypass anything. Or get a Mobil 1 filter which I think has no bypass. But really no need to worry about it.
 
When you first fire a freshly built engine, aren't you risking metal flakes running through the turbo? The reason I'm asking is because the new engine already has a good filter, but I have a turbosaver kit from trcustoms to install. I just ordered a cartridge filter for $25 shipped. If I install it before firing the engine, then I probably should replace with another new cartridge, right? Seems silly to spend $50 in cartridge filters when the engine already has a good filter now (Wix). Any opinions/input? Thanks

Extra filters & the correct oil is cheap insurance compared to ruined parts.

Change the oil & filters often, during & after engine break-in.
 
The turbo saver's only purpose is to make sure that only freshly filtered oil enters the turbo. It does nothing to prevent unfiltered oil from entering the engine,through the bypass/flapper door,during cold stat up. The good news is that,with the turbo saver,none of this bypassed oil can enter the turbo because the turbo is no longer fed by the stock turbo oil feed line. It's fed by a new line that is supplied with oil that has just passed through the filter. If you want to use the Wix filter without the turbo saver,heat the oil before start up. Since the oil will be thinner,it will not build enough pressure to open the bypass door.

I don't run a turbo saver and didn't when I started the engine for the first time.
 
If you're taking about microscopic bits of metal, there's nothing to worry about.


If your new rebuild generates 'flakes', you're already in need of another rebuild.
 
On initial startup, do I need the wideband o2 hooked up? I will turn off wideband tracking in the chip. I don't have the bung welded in yet and was hoping to fire it for the first time tonight.
 
If your ecm doesn't need it then knock yourself out . If it can run off the wide band I would put it where the stock one is and toss the narrow band . Also u can get a bung where u just drill a hole and then a band clamp raps around the pipe and there is no welding needed pretty easy
 
It depends on what chip you are running? If it's the one that goes just off the wideband then yes if the chip reads your narrow band then leave the narrow band
 
It's the tt 6.1 chip. I'm leaving the narrowband in place and adding the wideband downstream in the downpipe.
 
Closed loop correction is turned off by setting the first 3 to 9.9. You should be able to do that to fire it up but I would take the time to put the Wideband sensor in before you drive it with any real boost.
 
Yeah. I decided it would be best to wait until it's all ready to go. What's one more week after being down for 2 years.
 
Top