block prep for stroker ???

nonosv6

Member
Joined
Jan 8, 2002
alright, i've searched all over and can't find out any info on what work needs to be done to the block to fit a stoker kit...maybe i'm searching the wrong thing??? any help on search words or specs would be great...thanks,joel
 
Here is the rundown off what was done for my stroker.

I did some minor clearancing of the block in the area where the oil supply port bulges inward toward the block and gets close to number one connecting rod. I probably clearanced this area more than needed. What I did was measure the amount of clearance the factory cranks and rods had, then duplicated it for the stroker set up. I did not pay attention to how thin I made the block in this area. This was not a concern because I was planning on running the DLS oil pump plate which eliminates the need for this port in the block. The DLS oil pump plate pulls oil from a -12 hose which runs directly into the bottom of the oil pan.

This oil pump set up may be overkill, but because I knew how well Dave Bamfords TSM engines bottom end survived the beating he gave it, I wanted to run this set up. In my opinion proper oil supply to the engine is critical to long living healthy engine.

The rotating assembly was temporarily assembled. Then I rotated the camshaft timing gear off one tooth further forward. Next rotated the crank and clearanced the rod slightly until it would clear the cam. After this I rotated the cam timing gear one tooth off in the other direction and verified clearance. This made me feel very comfortable about the clearance in-between the cam and connecting rods.

I purchased my rotating assembly from DLS here is a photo. I am very pleased with the parts I bought from Dan.
 

Attachments

  • 249_v6.jpg
    249_v6.jpg
    51.3 KB · Views: 610
is that all the clearancing you have to do?do you have any pics of the oil system?how much was the rotating assembly?thanks for the quick reply...joel
 
Yep, that was it as far as clearancing of components went.

I can not remember how much I paid for the stroker kit. Give Dan Strezo at DLS engine development a call. There are several ways to go about getting the parts needed to build a stroker. A person could build a stroker engine that used stock rods with custom pistons if they wanted to.

Dan Strezo
DLS Engine Development
886 E 900 N
Wheatfield IN 46392
219-956-3653

Here is a Close up of the oil pump supply port bulge in the block prior to final grinding. I’ll try to get some photos of the oil pump set up, and get them posted.
 

Attachments

  • 249_1.jpg
    249_1.jpg
    27.2 KB · Views: 594
that it as far as clearancing goes the "cam off one tooth" part is overkill IMO but I understand the logic. The only thing that really needs to be done is the oil galley shown. The rest is standare prep work for any performance rebuild.
Mike
 
thank you mike and sam.....not that i doughted sam, just thought there might have been more to it from reading the board.... thanks again...joel
 
DLS pump plate.

Here is a picture of the of the DLS oil pump plate. My engine has a custom oil pan from DLS. This pan is pretty awesome (has a trap door, a windage screen, along with the trick built in oil pick up). Moroso makes a kit where you can weld a pick up into the side of a stock steel oil pan, but I had to have this oil pan!!!

The -12 hose going from the oil pan to the pump eliminates the need for the internal oil pick up. This is why I did not pay attention to how thin I made this area of the block (as shown in the last picture I posted). The port that has the aluminum cap on it will go to an externally mounted oil filter. From that filter it will go into the block up by the timing chain cover. I’ll get a picture of where the oil goes into the block and post it. The other hose handles the oil which is pumped past the bypass valve. This hose is routed to a billet fuel pump plate that has a -8 AN fitting on it. This bypassed oil lubricates the timing chain. (Additional lubrication of the timing chain should increase timing chain life). In my opinion the main advantage of this system is it eliminates all the tight bends the oil has to travel through the small orifice tube of the block before it ever gets to the pump.

Oh, one other thing. You can fine tune the pump pressure by adjusting the set screw on the front of the pump. This set screw adjust tension on the bypass valve spring.
 

Attachments

  • v6.jpg
    v6.jpg
    38.7 KB · Views: 419
This thread sorta turned into a oil pump plate thread quickly.
Take care, Kip
 
Sam,
Thanks for the play by play on the fit up , it is very clear and self explanatory.Going that little extra is what makes a major project like
yours sucessful. I think that anyone who does a project like this would
be well advised to follow your lead. All of the kits that we sell have a
little extra clearance in the cam side of the rod but a good assembler
will always recheck everything and take nothing for granted.
 
Sam,
Thanks for the play by play on the fit up , it is very clear and self explanatory.Going that little extra is what makes a major project like
yours sucessful. I think that anyone who does a project like this would
be well advised to follow your lead. All of the kits that we sell have a
little extra clearance in the cam side of the rod but a good assembler
will always recheck everything and take nothing for granted.

Sam sounds like he's as anal as D Cruz...lol That's what it takes though. I'm glad we did the same on my engine.
 
Top