Billet Cam Gear Failure: What's fixed it for you?

UR50SLO

The Reaper
Joined
Jun 12, 2001
I've talked with many board memebers about this "Bolt on"cam gear and sensor gear wear problem.

If anyone is willing to talk about it..... what fixed it for you and why do

you think it fixed it.

I currently am trying a solution to this problem but will post when I KNOW

I have it fixed.

So.. what is the solution to this problem? :confused:

Camsensorgear1(1).jpg
 
They make a ceramic gear you can get that would fix the problem. Im assuming it would fit a cam sensor, Ive never tried one on a cam sensor. We do have one in our race car.
 
Not sure why you are having a problem. With a billet cam, you bolt on a stock iron dist. drive gear. If you have a billet dist. drive gear, replace it with a stock iron gear. Or am I missing something? Alignment issues? Aftermarket timing covers WILL do that.
 
Looks like an alignment issue. Call DLS and get their spacer and nylon gear. The spacer replaces the fuel pump eccentric and you will have to cut it down to fit so the alignment is correct for your sensor/distributor.
 
The Plastic cam sensor gear will not wear down the bolt on cam gear.

It has failed on several people I talked to. Some destroyed the engine some got lucky.

I don't feel comfortable using that gear long term. (Currently have that installed)

If you use stock cam sensor gear and bolt on billet gear even with lube it will eventually

wear the gears and fail. The two metals are not compatable.

~Scott
 
this is a significant problem with billet cam users. DLS has correctly engineered the solution without any bandaid exotic material dist. gears.
 
this is a significant problem with billet cam users. DLS has correctly engineered the solution without any bandaid exotic material dist. gears.

Ok.. well where is the link to this solution that DLS has? :confused:

And is this "Street" proven? no Track only car 1/4mi at a time stuff.
 
this is a significant problem with billet cam users. DLS has correctly engineered the solution without any bandaid exotic material dist. gears.

Really, that's funny because I got the nylon cam gear and spacer from Dan after having much of the same problem.
 
Really, that's funny because I got the nylon cam gear and spacer from Dan after having much of the same problem.


did you get it today? i also have a composite gear from Dan previously. But NOW the problem has been identified and resolved.

I know i sound vague but it isnt my place to leak out info that i am not qualified to discuss. All that im saying is that the true problem has been identified and corrected.
 
did you get it today? i also have a composite gear from Dan previously. But NOW the problem has been identified and resolved.

I know i sound vague but it isnt my place to leak out info that i am not qualified to discuss. All that im saying is that the true problem has been identified and corrected.

Yes like I said it is an alignment issue and using the correct spacer should correct it, if set up right it shouldn't matter steel or composite gear.

If your not trying to be vague then why try to answer the guys question with your super secret info? I must be missing out on something:rolleyes:
 
your alignment problem is a s2 specific problem. we are not talking about that here.

i already told you who has the solution. Do i need to strap in the babyseat, pack a diaperbag and drive you to Indiana.

My point was that there is a solution and i directed you to who has it.
 
UR50SLO,

yes it is for street cars too. My car is a Street car even though it likes beating up on race cars.;)
 
your alignment problem is a s2 specific problem. we are not talking about that here.

i already told you who has the solution. Do i need to strap in the babyseat, pack a diaperbag and drive you to Indiana.

My point was that there is a solution and i directed you to who has it.

First off I have no idea what motor this is in reference to since he never mentioned it.

Second you can keep your smart azz comments to yourself I was just trying to help the guy out and had already told him to call DLS prior to your vague less than useful post.

Third I never asked for your opinion nor would I ever want it so don't direct you comments toward me.
 
Better yet, I'll shut up. I should've known better to try and answer a question here. WAY to many internet gurus to even try.

Good luck getting it fixed next time I feel the need try and help I'll just shut the computer off and walk away and save myself the aggravation.
 
First off I have no idea what motor this is in reference to since he never mentioned it.

Second you can keep your smart azz comments to yourself I was just trying to help the guy out and had already told him to call DLS prior to your vague less than useful post.

Third I never asked for your opinion nor would I ever want it so don't direct you comments toward me.

first off i apologize for my childish comments.

second...when you quote a person you are usually directing your response towards them. keep that in mind .

i think the main problem here is that you didnt comprehend the original posters question.
 
I've talked with many board memebers about this "Bolt on"cam gear and sensor gear wear problem.

If anyone is willing to talk about it.....
Yes I am and I am going to do it one more time for Dr. Boost since I may have missed something and want to be as thorough as possible. Apparently Dr. Boost has a solution he is aware of but is unwilling to discuss it in a public forum for all to see and share.

what fixed it for you and why do

you think it fixed it.

I was wearing out cam and distributor gears and went through several. I called Dan at DLS he told me it is likely an alignment issue which I agreed. He sold me a composite gear and an aluminum spacer which we machined to properly align the cam gear and distributor gear and in additon to installing the composite gear. I did this in May or June and have not had any issues since and I have had it apart once already to inspect it and everything looked great.

S2 on/off center 109 etc shouldn't matter the alignment still has to be checked and correct. There is a multitude of things that can alter it with custom and aftermarket parts and IMO is what you are having issues with. I see no reason why a composite gear can't be used in a street car like any other. BTW I do drive mine on the street pretty frequently and it is a lot less race car than you may think.

I currently am trying a solution to this problem but will post when I KNOW

I have it fixed.

So.. what is the solution to this problem? :confused:

Great I would love to hear what you come up with. Sorry my first post was a little to short for some to understand but I do believe I covered the topic and understood everything as written.
 
first off i apologize for my childish comments.

Great lets move on

second...when you quote a person you are usually directing your response towards them. keep that in mind .

I understood that and my reply was an indirect question as to what exactly is different now than when I called him 4 months ago regarding the same issue?

i think the main problem here is that you didnt comprehend the original posters question.
See above
 
Thank you TurboBuick/Mike for your Information and past history on what has happend with your car.
I'd like to build a Stage 2 setup sometime in the next couple years. If you have any suggestions send me a e-mail when you have time. Thanks!

Dr.Boost.. if you can't comment or don't know what the fix is then I'm not sure exactly why you posted anything. You could have just said "I think DLS has a fix for this... call them and ask what they have"
That would have gotten the job done. The rest just stirs up $hit and isn't what I wanted this thread to become.

I wiped my cam gears out on Drag week.
Here is what I know:

With a girdle.. NO lube/oil gets on the cam gear/sensor gear.. That's a fact.

I talked to Jason at RJC.... He Trahed the Cam gear and sensor gear (Both metal)
Then installed new cam gear and Nylon Cam gear... broke the nylon one at Bowling Green
trashed the engine since oil pump stopped.
He even had oil from a gallery plug spraying on the gears (plastic and metal) Did not help the wear problem.
Then spent a ton of time comparing "flat tappet" cam gear to replacement gear.
The teeth on both are perfect pitch...same exact everything. He spent some time
checking into this. SO.... What he did is cut the Flat Tappet gear off of the cam.
Machiened the Flat tappet gear to look like the replacement one.
The only thing he could not test was rockwell hardness between Flat tappet and replacement gear. (I am having that checked)

He's had it in there now and has checked it out frequently and both gears are perfect.
That is what I am doing with mine.
When I get this setup on mine and have driven 300mi at 65-75mph all in one trip
and the gears look perfect.. I'll know it worked.

Thank you for your input as I'm trying to put this here so people are aware it IS a BIG problem and it almost Bit me in the A$$. I don't wany anyone to screw up a engine over a stupid cam gear problem!!!!!!
~Scott
 
When we built my first girdle motor for TSS I had issues with oiling the gear. The girdle blocks oil splash from the oil slinger and pan. There is an oil port on the #1 cam bearing and if you run a cam stack up that uses the large torrington bearing it will not get enough oil. We drilled a .040 hole in the galley plug and never had another issue with it.

Issues I've seen:
1. Oiling can be an issue with a girdled motor but drilling a hole for extra oil "should" fix the problem and it may only be a problem depending on the cam stack up and the amount of oil it will allow past the #1 cam bearing.
2. Aftermarket covers can be all over the place with sensor alignment and where the hole is located.
3. Cam stack ups are all very different and can affect alignment. Some use a recessed gear some do not etc. The BEST method I have found is to check the alignment and use DLS's spacer and machine it to fit for perfect alignment.
4. The newer aftermarket gears do not seem to be the same quality as the factory GM gears where and may be softer but I doubt they are softer than the cast iron gear on a stock cam.
5. If your oil pressure is to high you can wipe out gears also, especially on a higher rpm motor.
6. If you run S2 with roller cam bearings and a danny bee retention plate you will not get enough oil in the timing cover. I ran into this issue this spring and drilled an .052 hole in one of the pressure ports on the back of the timing cover to correct it.

I would look into the alignment issue. Check a stock motor and were a stock cam is located in relation to the center of the sensor shaft. Mock up the roller cam and recheck. Also make sure you use the same gasket. The felpro is significantly thicker than a stock GM gasket.
 
When I found the problem with my car it was the last day of Drag Week (friday) at 8am.
I was in a parking lot in Columbus OH. I had to be in Muncie at 9pm to make my last pass for the week. Webber sent me down gears 2.5hrs one way and I changed them out in the parking lot in 45min.
I put high impact grease on the gears.. then drove 4hrs to Muncie.. raced and home another 3.5hrs. When I got home and pulled the cam sensor.. the grease had no signs of oil on them at all. That is a lot of driving at 70+mph not to get oil on the gears.

I ran a external oil line from where the turbo get's feed from to top of T-chain cover. It get's a glancing blow to the gears (not ideal) but does lube them.
Jason said the cam plugs are a better choice for oiling.

My girdle or somthing must keep me from getting oil on chain/gears.

Regardless of oil I think like you said the allignment is a big part and the materials could
also be a part..?
Thanks for your very insitefull information from what you've been through.
~Scott
 
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