Best header bolts

2

2toneNV

Active Member
Joined
Mar 5, 2007
Guys wanted to get some input from guys that have done it before. I really want to replace my header bolts with some high quality pieces. What bolts are the best to go with (I.e. ARP, stage 8, etc.)? Please provide part numbers or site.
Thanks!

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
 
So is it true that stainless has a tendency to seize in the turbo exhaust housing even with anti sieze? What type of bolts do you recommend for THDP style DP using the ones that need a 6mm hex socket to remove now.
 
Steve V said:
So is it true that stainless has a tendency to seize in the turbo exhaust housing even with anti sieze?
Click to expand...

No. You have less galvanic corrosion with fasteners that corrode less.

I installed SS bolts in my THDP when I bouht it in '98. If they were going to seize, they're really taking their time :)
 
Earl, that thread wouldn't come up. The stainless allen head bolts I used in my DP had severe tarnish that made them seem corroded and were extremely hard to remove. Enough to where I installed it back on with grade 8.
Will these header bolts keep from backing out?

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
 
Odd. I just clicked the link and it worked for me....

Any idea if the bolts you had were actual quality industrial type fasteners or chinese knockoffs? The ones I have on my DP turn a little brown from the heat (like the DP itself) but they have no signs of weakening or galling.

Plus, the bolts that go into the header are thermally coupled to a watercooled head. They won't be getting near as hot as the DP bolts. Stainless is mixture of iron, carbon, and nickle. Couple hundred degrees isn't going to phase them.
 
I believe they are 5/16", but I don't remember the length. I have my engine out and I can measure tonight. I need to put together a few sets anyways.

 
3/8 by 1.5 on all but the 2 front drivers side studs. Those are longer. I'm fixing to order a few bags of studs for our cars. If someone wants a set I'll kit them up.
 
Those lengths are for your non stock headers and they don't take into account for the stock dipstick mounting. With the standoffs on factory headers I don't think you can remove them with the engine in the car. That's why I didn't put a stud on the rear holes with I built my bolt kit. A front and rear stud would make installing the headers much easier when starting the bolts. But the heater box and the steering column really make it tight if not impossible.


I just made a custom set for ATR headers earlier today and they were closer to what you're running.
 
I stated that the front two ( dipstick and alternator mount ) studs were longer. The studs can be removed with an Allen wrench if need be.
 
sackracing said:
I stated that the front two ( dipstick and alternator mount ) studs were longer. The studs can be removed with an Allen wrench if need be.
Click to expand...

Sackracing, let me know because I am pulling my engine this weekend and will need them after I get my list of To Do's done.

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
 
sackracing said:
3/8 by 1.5 on all but the 2 front drivers side studs. Those are longer. I'm fixing to order a few bags of studs for our cars. If someone wants a set I'll kit them up.
Click to expand...

How can the upper and lower bolts be the same length when the uppers have that really thick bushing welded to the flange, and the lower bolts go just through the flange only?
 
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