Aligning the front clip/door gap?

[mikestertwo]

I got around to adjusting my fender gap today. Unfortunately, I wasn't able to get it any closer. I loosened the two 15 mm bolts (one by the hood hinge and the other inside the door jam). I slowly jacked up the front frame rail behind the bumper mounts. I just couldn't get it to move. I did, however, get the hood aligned with the advice of you guys on here. I might try the fender again at some point. I will try loosening some of the other bolts to see if that helps.

Your going to have to loosen more than those two 15mm bolts to get the fender to move. There are a total of 5-15mm bolts that need to be loosened near the door. There are 2 near the hood hinge, 2 in the door jam (top and bottom) and 1 at the base of the fender. Then you have to loosen the 13mm bolts that hold the plastic fender well to the body and radiator support. There is a 13mm bolt that holds the plastic fender well to the body right behind the front tire. You also have to loosen the 13mm bolts that hold the plastic fender well to the radiator support. They are located under the battery towards the front of the car. I think there are 3 of them. There are also a couple of 10mm bolts that hold a brace from the inner fender well to the radiator support that should be loosened. These are also near the battery. I had to loosen all of these bolts to get the fender to move. Good luck!

 

[gm5150]

the 5- 15mm bolts you mentioned.
are these the same bolts you remove to pull the antenna? when the door is wide open.. you can see 5 bolts, though they are 10mm. then around 3 more 10mm bolts in the fender well. are these the bolts you are talking about? I too need to widen the gap at the bottom of my door and fender and shorten the gap at the top of the door to fender.

 

[GNRick]

On a car show on tv, Tommy Boshars used a wooden paint stick to measure the door gap between the door and front fender. His partner adjusted the fender until the stick ran smoothly down the gap. I think it was on a 70 Chevelle.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

when the door is wide open.. you can see 5 bolts, though they are 10mm. then around 3 more 10mm bolts in the fender well

No. Those hold the inner, metal panel to the outer fender.
I saw no mention of the core support mount bolts. The core support mounts have to be shimmed up/down, moved forward/back, to put the fender edge parallel to the door edge, and to add/remove spacing w/ the door.
I always start w/ the door at the rocker and B pillar, fitting the door at those 2 places. I remove the striker, so I can easily open/close the door. Then, the fender, ft clip is aligned.
If anyone wants some pics, I have the ft end disassembled.

 

[gm5150]

My door gaps look great and they close smoothly etc.
Pics would be helpful.
I may just take it to a good body shop and let them handle it.
I was hoping it wasn't a big deals to close the gap on the front fenders a bit on the top.
My biggest issue is how close the bottom is to the doors when I open them. especially the passenger side.
It rubs ever so slightly on the front fender towards the bottom on the fender.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

..

 

[gm5150]

Chuck, i'm new to these cars.
Not sure what the "* Raise the core support w/ large washer shim. " core support is.

 

[gm5150]

Radiator core supports?
http://www.kirbanperformance.com/Bu...ODUCTION+BUSHINGS+CUSHIONS+(2)+KIT+#7304.html

 

[MCH86GN]

Here is the passenger side. The driver side has nice gaps. This side is much larger at the top and the hood sticks up as well. View attachment 264230

This looks like the gap on my driver's side. The passenger's side is about half of the width of the driver's side. Thought I was the only one with mismatched gaps. Talked to a guy about it at an event last year and he said it was a pain to get gaps even. Of course I both sides to match, but at this point no harm, no foul.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

Either the door is sagging, or the core support is down, or the frame is sagging/been wrecked, etc.
30 y/o body bushing replacement is where I'd start. My 87T had only 59K on it. the bushings looked like they had been thru WW2.
A good energy Suspension kit has all the bushings, including the GNX, and the core support. Don't like poly? Get a rubber kit.

 

[vader87]

Just went through this with my 85. Replaced with new bushing and everything was off. I had to place large washer shims under my core support to raise the complete header panel. This closed the upper gap between the fenders and doors.

 

[MCH86GN]

Either the door is sagging, or the core support is down, or the frame is sagging/been wrecked, etc.
30 y/o body bushing replacement is where I'd start. My 87T had only 59K on it. the bushings looked like they had been thru WW2.
A good energy Suspension kit has all the bushings, including the GNX, and the core support. Don't like poly? Get a rubber kit.

In addition my car has some squeaks, maybe replacing the bushings will help with there as well. Just to be sure, the bushing you're referring to are the ones the body needs to be lifted off the chassis to replace correct? I put the missing body bushing, from Kirban, and that helped some with the squeaking.

OP - sorry for thread drift.

 

[TurboTGuy]

I don't think OP will be too offended. This thread is 2 1/2 years old.

 

[GNRick]

Just went through this with my 85. Replaced with new bushing and everything was off. I had to place large washer shims under my core support to raise the complete header panel. This closed the upper gap between the fenders and doors.

Couldn't you just shim the fender where it bolts down to the core support?

 

[GNRick]

For the hood you may have to loosen the two 13mm bolts that hold the hinge to the fender. Loosen the back bolt. SLIGHTLY loosen the front bolt. Lift up on the hood...the hinge will pivot on the front bolt forcing the back of the hinge down. Tighten the back bolt. Tighten the front bolt. I mark around the bolts with a Sharpie marker before I loosen anything so I know where I started and how much I moved it.

I just did this. Worked like a charm. Thanks Mike. You described the procedure perfectly!

 

[Chuck Leeper]

I don't think OP will be too offended. This thread is 2 1/2 years old.

That's why the "founders" chose to keep the threads in an archive.....So others can use the info, and old guys like me, can have something to do!

 

[gm5150]

Anytime i have questions about my GN, I search the old threads first for answers.
The group of people, you guys, this site is great! It's nice to know I have a place to go to ask questions and get answers.
Thank you all!

 

[vader87]

Couldn't you just shim the fender where it bolts down to the core support?

Yes but then the header panel would not be aligned with the fenders.

 

[GNRick]

Lol yeah I thought about that after I posted.

 

[mtocrs1]

I'm glad someone dug this up. I am going through the same thing on my driver side. I need to replace the door pins/bushings before I start messing with stuff. Have a gap at the top on the fender like the OP


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