Advise on passing needed. Emission #'s inside

I'd buy an adjustable one if i could get one right away, any thoughts on one that looks someone stock but is adjustable ?
 
UPDATE: just went out and checked the # on my FP reg. It is a #233 (the 208 number i had in my head was the first 3 numbers)
 
okay, just checked my TT instructions for the Emission chip. Eric recommends 38# with line off. Sounds like i'll need an adjustable regulator to accomplish this.
UGGGH ! Im getting impatient.
 
On the coast..... right between LA and SF Pismo Beach ...so about 3 hours south of you
 
I'm in Palmdale next week, but that doesn't sound any closer. Just looked up a 233 regulator at highway stars, yikes, had no idea they were so expensive.
 
I can get a new aftermarket one for $80

Do you think i should just get a stock 233/aftermarket OEM type or go with something adjustable? If i have to dick with FP every year seems like i should have the adjustable one and cover all the bases ?
 
If your tech is ok with adjustable, get it. You probably should have one anyway once your done with this ordeal for your normal, non-smog chip. I don't think the one you have now is doing you any favors smog or not. An old trick was to "crush" factory regulators to get more fp, maybe thats what happened to yours. Just out of curiousity, can you easily bypass your fuel pump hotwire and see if your fuel pressure drops?
 
Doesn't look squished, but i follow what your saying. Looks like the wiring and circuit breaker for the hotwire are easy to get to, and the power wire goes right to the alt. so that's easy to reach. I could just jump it to the battery and see....

I asked my tech about the adj. regulator. I could probably get by with the stock looking adj. ones like JEGS sells, (the Holley one) but not the Billet ones. :(
 
Which hotwire kit do you have? The Racetronix one, for example, can easily be bypassed at the rear by removing the splice and reconnecting the factory connectors back together. Shouldn't have to mess with the alternator connection. Be sure to read the fine print on that holley regulator, this one seems like the ticket: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-512-503-5/overview/ but it says adjustable 35-36 psi. That may work fine for smog, not so much for the normal TT chip which requires another 7-8 psi.
 
I have no idea which hot wire kit. Car came to me this way. It looks like this:
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HAPPY HAPPY JOY JOY ! and thank you baby jeezuz !

My car passed

A couple days ago we did a pre and post CAT check to check efficiency of the cat. At 2500 it was only reducing HC's by 2. Which pretty much shows the CAT isn't working even when hot.

So, i ordered up another CAT, and retested today at lunch and my HC's at idle went from 550+ to 2 ! Yep, 2 !!!!

As much as it sucked to do this dance over the past couple weeks and the stress involved I did learn a lot about my car, and about emission levels. The CAT came from a friend, and member here on the site, so it was the last thing i expected to be the problem.
Now it's time to get this thing registered and in my name so i can drive it like i stole it !
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Bringing this post back from the dead but I'm curious which cat you ended up with as well


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Thank you very much. I'm working my way to make my Alabama car pass CA smog.


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Here is a Walker Cat part number. # 80827 This one has the proper 2.25" inlet/outlet size. It's a universal cat, so it does not have the front 4 bolt flange. It is CARB compliant.
 
2 years later and it's time to renew registration and smog test again. Bummer. But not really a big deal now that i know what i need to do to pass. :whistle: I made myself a list last time of what to swap back to stock, and kept all the parts in one easy to find place. Took me less than an hour to have it ready to test. (y)
Ran the test this morning, and it passed no problem again. Took even less time to revert. :D


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