4.1carb turbo upgrade

mikemcvaney

Active Member
Joined
Apr 20, 2009
Sent the 4.1 to the machine shop this week,hopefully it will checkout fine if not my freind has a couple more blocks . The build is going to be forged pistons after market center caps, line bored, deck plates, custom ground hydralic roller,aftermarket hotair headers, stage 3 turbo from reed, new downpipe and uppipe and my old ported and polished heads with stainless valves.
 
4.1, roller cam and ported heads sounds like a great foundation for a performance build!

I can't wait to follow this build. :D
 
If your roller cam (like Comp) does not have a groove in the front journal you will need to machine a groove in the front of the block like a 109 block has so oil can get to the drivers side lifters, or just use TA rear grooved cam bearings.
 
Can you give us more info on this? Does it use stock housings?
Yes it has a63 exhaust housing with a stock comp housing,t4 center section and backing plates machined down to fit inthe stock housings.Intake trim is60 exhaust trim is 74 it is basically a ta49 for a carbed turbo.I think Charlies idea with the 301 housing will make colder air, since my car is driven almost daily wanted the quick spool of the stock housing. Pus Iam out of hood room now. Lucked out on the motor standard bore no visible cracksand the turbo crank is good to not even a scuff.The pitons are so much bigger I had to laugh all the way home dont even have to have them side by side to tell the diff. its a no brainer. He has 2 more Im going to buy both of them. the cranks are worth what Im paying for the blocks.
 
If your roller cam (like Comp) does not have a groove in the front journal you will need to machine a groove in the front of the block like a 109 block has so oil can get to the drivers side lifters, or just use TA rear grooved cam bearings.
Thank you any other tips would be much appreciated. Anyboby have any tips on keeping this thing together.
 
Yes it has a63 exhaust housing with a stock comp housing,t4 center section and backing plates machined down to fit inthe stock housings.Intake trim is60 exhaust trim is 74 it is basically a ta49 for a carbed turbo.I think Charlies idea with the 301 housing will make colder air, since my car is driven almost daily wanted the quick spool of the stock housing. Pus Iam out of hood room now. Lucked out on the motor standard bore no visible cracksand the turbo crank is good to not even a scuff.The pitons are so much bigger I had to laugh all the way home dont even have to have them side by side to tell the diff. its a no brainer. He has 2 more Im going to buy both of them. the cranks are worth what Im paying for the blocks.
Now that sounds interesting!!!
 
The block is good the caps mainstuds and rods are on the way. Hopefully Iwill have some time to mock the headers and downpipe this week. How much do the valve covers need to be raised to clear rollerrockers?
 
Picked up a forged crank the machinist found it dont relly need it but still a good score.A lso got atiming cover from Earl Brown and champion heads.
 
after a year and a half finally had to pick up my unfinished motor bummer after 30 years had no choice but find a new machine shop. The good news got aftermarket steel crank and aftermarket rods and a new machine shop next week . Will be sending the intake to extrudehone technologies to get ported than it will be flow balanced on champion irons so I should be able to post some flow numbers around 500 lift for you guys. Hopefully this will be done by late spring he builds my friends sprint car motors pretty fast and has done several turbo buicks. Anyone using eagle crank or rods?
 
I've used the eagle and its a great crank but it needs to be double checked. Your machinest should verify the rods and mains are correct and without taper. Big thing to look at is the knurling of the crank at the rear main seal, make sure its the correct direction and spacing or you will have a leaker.
 
What year intake you using? And would you mind cc'ing it before and after to see how much material the media removes?
 
I have a set of GN1 valve covers if you need them...

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I've used the eagle and its a great crank but it needs to be double checked. Your machinest should verify the rods and mains are correct and without taper. Big thing to look at is the knurling of the crank at the rear main seal, make sure its the correct direction and spacing or you will have a leaker.
Was just plannining on turning it 10 under to know for sure and thank you for the tip on the crank knuurling will take the stock crank and match it up. Im telling you guys IM FRYING EM OFF BY JULY FIRST cars are not cool unless you can enjoy them and I love old cars and hotrods there is no ride like american sleds and muscle:D
 
What year intake you using? And would you mind cc'ing it before and after to see how much material the media removes?
!980 Intake and how about you cc one and compare to mine after the work but will be glad to post any numbers obtained remember a4 inch bore will flow more than a 3.8 . Just cant afford to waste any time or money on things that really dont matter I have very little time and a hell of lot less money. Thank you for your feed back
 
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