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A direct quote from Dennis Kirban, ”They are 100% not Kirban wheels”.

Dennis said his are made in U.S.A and that he never had any center hole issues that I was experiencing.

For those who may ever end up buying the China Repos here is how I made mine work. 16x8 245/50/16. Full clearance all around. I got these off eBay as I thought I was buying Kirban wheels, as that is what they were listed as, but they ended up being China Repos. Front: longer wheel studs...

Stock discs and stock rear axle. I’m not going to do anything to the center hole. I have spacers and longer wheel studs on the way. I’ve got everything on the front already off and ready for the new longer studs. The spacers for the front I bought fit perfect and I have 5/16 spacers on the way...

Well I’m going to leave the wheels center holes alone. With the 245/50 tires I’m already almost up against the tie rods so busting my butt grinding/sanding the wheels center hole wouldn’t help me any. Thankfully I spotted that before starting. I’m just gonna go with spacers and I’ve already got...

You said “looks like” so there was a chance someone else chimes in and says something different. I’ll mess around with the center hole and see if I can avoid spacers. Thanks.

Is it safe to start grinding down or hollowing out the wheels center bore hole till the wheels clear and fit flush with the wheel hub? Or just go with spacers?

I just took all four wheels off and compared their rear markings. The only difference from wheel to wheel is one of the five squares (shown in picture 2). Two wheels say C CR15, one says C AJ and the forth reads C CR7. None of that probably means anything. I believe the 425^1 on the back of each...

The second and third picture show the only markings on the back of the wheels. All the rear webbing/spokes are black and free of any markings.

All four wheels have the same markings as in the pictures posted. Unless someone can translate the numbers there is no clear indication as to front wheel vs rear. I’ve tried three of the wheels on the driver side front and they all go on crooked once the lug nuts are tight and all four wheels...

What wheels have I got here? The fronts won’t go on straight and both the front and back wheel get stuck to the wheel hub. I’ve got spacers and longer wheel studs on the way.

You guys rule!! The fact that it's movable eases my concerns. I'll have to get right on it. Thanks.

the exterior rear deck, the piece right above the trunk, whatever it's proper name is, has moved. I noticed it is pushing up against the rear quarter panel on the drivers side and there is about a pencil width opening on the passenger side. I'm thinking the car wasn't level when installing the...

Big Ups, Props, Cookies, whatever the word is nowadays to TurboTweak's Emissions Chip. Took my car to get inspected and failed miserably only to realize that I didn't use my emissions chip and swore I had one someplace at home. Finally found it and passed with flying colors. Amazing.

Cat is good or at least should be. I figured it was the EGR, I do have it off on my normal chip but not plugged, hopefully with it functioning on the emissions chip everything levels out for the test.

Failed emissions. Readings: CO% Low 2.21 High 2.61 Limits: CO% Low 1.20 High 1.20 I found my emissions chip and will head back to retry. I am curious though if these high CO's are an indication of something out of wack with my normal chip? Or is this a normal condition with 50lb injectors...

The pedal was one of the first things I checked to make sure I used the right hole. Everything was bought from RedRegalT, his vacuum brake kit. It sat for almost a year till the powermaster motor quit. I was thinking the master cylinder dried up on me from sitting, but a new master cylinder...

Going to check the rear brakes. They would need adjusting even if all ya did was replace a powermaster system with a vacuum system? Nothing was done to the actual brakes. Strange....

With car off the pedal is really hard and low. Car running it goes to the floor with a "woosh" sound then the brakes apply. From there the pedal either sticks or takes a long time to return.

Converted to vacuum brakes, pedal goes to the floor easily then brakes apply, no gradual stopping, pedal either takes forever to return or doesn't at all. Purchased new master cylinder and no difference. Checked all check valves and lines, pedal is the correct vacuum brakes pedal, every bleeding...