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:p:D

Yes, what you need to fix the brake problems forever is to convert to vacuum brakes like already suggested. I did it about 17 years ago. The only thing I've done to maintain them is change the pads and shoes when needed. Here is a link for everything you need in a complete kit to convert from...

Very nice car.

You could always convert the 85 with an 86/87 donor car. And keep all 3. If not sell the 85 and keep the 86/87 cars.

Really? I've always had that box checked since the first time i seen it. I can't even find the political forum to post in it!! It shouldn't be that hard of a decision to make about something. If you don't want a political forum to be here,get rid of it and be done with it. But don't hide it!

I don't recall who it was who told her "good job" as she returned from the run. But her reply was " spinnin ain't winnin" lol. That was a good episode! Enjoyed that one and with real street cars. Except the one Reaper tried to slip in,he's as bad as jj da boss.

Here is a link that may help you when you install your new crank sensor. http://www.vortexbuicks-etc.com/cranksensor.htm

It looks like something has hit it. I wouldn't put it back on. Here is a link to the brand i use,has a good warranty and reasonable price. They are pretty much all the same as long as it's for your application...

Would it be worth it to restore this '86? A no-brainer answer is No Sell it as is or part it out. That car had a hard life for having that many miles on it. I've owned a couple with over 100k miles on them and had very little wear and tear to show it. Like already said you will spend more...

Since you have spark it seems that injector pulse needs to be checked for next with a noid light.

Typically: No start - no spark, has inj pulse -> Module No start - has spark no inj pulse -> ECM / cam sensor prob No start - no spark OR inj pulse - crank sensor or module

Had the same thing happen once. Turned out to be the crank sensor. I guess i got lucky with that, it only took about 15 minutes for me to come to the conclusion that it was the crank sensor. I just happened to have a spare one with me and was back up and running after installing it. I had...

Great gas mileage!!! Enjoy it. :cool:

Here you go. https://www.kirbanperformance.com/product/175/AIR+CONDITIONING+AC+DELETE+BYPASS+PULLEY+#7115.html Note: You may also be interested in a related item - ##6609 - 1986-1987 Turbo Regals and 1989 Turbo Trans Am - Serpentine Belt.

You might try and make a thread in this link below maybe someone local to you will see it. https://turbobuick.com/forums/south-eastern-area.45/

I had this happen before. Scared the crap out of me. It only did it twice, before i found the problem and fixed it. It was a bad ground wire eyelet terminal, one of the ones that bolt to the back of the heads. I don't know which one because i didn't trace it out. When i saw what the problem...

If you remove the coil pack from the module the big chain auto parts stores can test both of them for you. I know Autozone does this. If you decide to have this done it would be a good idea to call your local store ahead of time to make sure they can perform the tests before driving there. Also...

Yep goes to the heater control valve.

Yes you can. It's normally done with it installed on the engine. If you measure the resistance between the front and back terminals on each coil they should be in the range of 11-14K ohms. A good coil pack to replace it with is the (BWD) Borg Warner Division brand I know Oreilly's and Advance...