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Thanks for the reply, but just ordered one from the link in previous post. If I had only waited I would have taken you up on the power 6 one.

Gentlemen thank you for the responces. Not really in the market for a set of four but thanks. The deal on the link will work great though. Regards,

Like the title states doesnt have to be show quality, a decent used piece would be fine. So long as all the lug tabs are present and its not cracked, or chipped. Scrathes OK as the other three aren't perfect either. Thanks,

From SW VA here Rural Retreat to be exact. I run Elk Creek sometimes. Maybe I'll see ya at the track.

How about a dead cell in tha battery causing it not to hold charge? You can have it tested at any Walmart service center, and they supply a printout of the results.

I just bought new clutches and the S spring from the dealer ship last OCT. Both were pricey I believe I paid about $160.00 for everything. Hoping to install this spring. So I am suprised they are no longer available already.

I would try a tighter plug gap than .035......Put them at .030 and see if it clears up.

I don't know how it would act in a smog test situation because I am not required to do that in my local. As for it being a good streetable cam that you can grow into, and still make very good power its a nice choice. My 212/212 roller showed gains on the dyno all the way up to 6000 rpm.

What makes 5500 the proper RPM for the 212/212 roller? Just curious actually. My car continued to make power up to 6000 on the dyno with this cam.

Everything together was $184.00 The spring I believe was $26. Talk about paying a premium for a GM logo. I just didnt want any suprises when I go to install with components.

Yes I purchased the kit just last week from GM. It came with all the clutches. The S spring was seperate but I got it from GM as well. Thanks for the replys

Can anyone tell me if I have to pull the axels to replace the clutches and S spring or can it all be done from the differential cover?

Try this link out a member made his own it appears...... http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/fabrication-no-solicitation/279386-automatic-exhaust-dump.html

Its my understanding that they wont live that close to the turbo, I don't claim to know whether it will or not. Mine is located at the bottom of the downpipe.

I now fully understand what your blocking with the adapter and how big the flapper is. I cant see the forest for the trees sometimes..lol Now on to the flapper material. I am thinking light weight will be a benifit no matter which way you choose to index it. Easier on bushings easier for...

I was under the assumption you wanted one side blocked at initial spoolup vs splitting up the blocked off area on each side. If I understand what your trying to accomplish I believe it has to be as drawn. If the shaft intersects the flapper at anything past its edge it would hit the divided...

I am attaching a quick auto cad sketch as a pdf file for you to review. This is what I was thinking about with a stepper drive in the adapter plate. Just go to view and rotate clockwise for the drawn orientation. We could get much more in detail just wanted to show roughly what I was trying do...

I am anengineer but have no idea what a t4 or t6 adapter looks like to offer material thickness recomendations. I would probably stay with stainless for a material though. Just a thought but have you considered a DC stepper motor for flapper control instead of C02? That way no need for a...

Sorry to waste all the members time. I found the info on gntytpe.org

I went ahead and purchased the clutch kit for the G80 rear at a local GM dealer. The spring is seperate and got that as well. Parts should be here next Tuesday. At that time I will pull the cover and have a look. I may not need the parts yet but figured I would order them while still available...