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I bought the smallest kit, the BO1 for the black oxide. For the zink kit I bought the PNPZN1. If you get these kits, let me know when you are going to do it and I'll tell/show you an easier way to do the plating than what is mentioned. You will also need some small wire wheel brushes...

Yep the two kits I bought from caswell's did the job with a lot of room to spare. Good luck!

He does not have a website that I know of. He did not do all my bolts and nuts, I did. Re-read my post about using the kits from caswell plating.

I unbolted everything. The frame and everything else was done as a single piece.

Nope, dropped my frame, took it on a rollback to him and a week later he had it done. All the other stuff was done intermittantly. He is located in Sunbury, PA. 570-988-2226 (Jay)

My coating was done at Custom Metal Coating, a local business. I think to blast and coat the frame, rear, suspension components and a few odds and ends, the cost was $425. The color is black pearl. It is about a 70% gloss as compared to very glossy 100% black. I did not coat the brake lines, I...

I simply had my parts blasted and coated. Nothing more as prep work. Has held up well. Just about everything I own (farm equipment, car parts, bilko doors, etc) have been coated and no problems. The fuel and brake lines were hand polished/cleaned with SOS pads and a lot of hand work. Once they...

Beautiful job! I wish I would have done that to mine. Oh wait a minute... I did!:biggrin:

For some powdercoat pics, check out the link in my sig. If I had to do it all over again, I'd do it the same way.

I agree. Color is gray.

I think that is my buddy's car. He bought it from a vendor at the Nationals in 2003? I'll have to ask him if he remembers who.

Taking the rear out is not a problem at all and isn't very time consuming. Crawl underneath there and check it out.

Probably be just as easy to take the rear out, sandblast it, paint it with POR-15 or powdercoat it, grease all the joints, change the oil, and put it back in. Wire wheel on the frame would be my choice. Once you do all this, you'll never have to do much to it again. You then have the option of...

Here is a quick tip. NEVER use blocks to hold up something with that kind of weight. They have a tendancy to crack or fully break and there goes your ride. Always use solid wooden blocks. Could you imagine if your car came crumbling down? :eek:

I just went out to get a few pics but realized where the bolts are, they aren't visible without moving a few wires around or removing some brackets. If you go to my flicker page in my sig you can see some of the work. I painted my intake silver and anywhere there was a bolt to hold it down, I...

As a side note, my buddy went the same route but got his bolts "professionally" done with a black oxide coating. We both agreed that mine came out better and was a heck of a lot cheaper.

I wanted to do the same thing but went with buying a blackening kit from Caswell Inc. - Black Oxide Kit. After they were blackened I cleared them. I wanted black bolts on the silver background and silver bolts on the black parts so i went ahead and bought the Eastwood zinc plating kit. Worked...

They might be available from GM but I got mine from NAPA a few years ago. Not quite the same but nobody notices. I still put a dab or grease on them even when they were new.

If anyone knows of anyone else that needs some parts for a 57 or 50's Buick, I have a few. I have a brand new roll of black seat cloth for sale that is mint. Thanks!

Brand new up for bid. eBay Motors: MSD Coil Interface 3.8 Grand National Turbo T type GN (item 320196608897 end time Dec-19-07 09:42:19 PST)