On Center Build questions

I grind à taper on the threads of the cam side bolts so no matter where the bolt ends up they will clear the cam. My rod bolts torque to 70 ft lbs using the old moly ARP lube. The torque is probably more like 75 with the new lube, which I don't like as much as the old moly lube.
 
I'm mocking up my alt bracket . Looks like I'm going to make something to adapt my impala 140amp to work with this bracket . The rods have been ground to clear the cam as well as the block to fit the stroker . I tourqued them all to 70 ft lbs
IMG_8337.JPG
IMG_8342.JPG
 
Just Alil update . I got the short block assembled with all the head studs installed as well as the gear drive set strait up . I am now assembling my heads hopefully I will be firing her in acouple weeks
IMG_8469.JPG
IMG_8465.JPG
IMG_8412.JPG
 
Okay she is together I'm just waiting on some 7.900" push rods . I have every size but the size I need . Every build I've done required a new set of pushrods fml . Anyway she is looking good and can't wait to get her in and fired up :) thank you guys for the help and answering all my dumb questions .
IMG_8500.JPG
IMG_8555.JPG
IMG_8557.JPG
IMG_8521.JPG
 
Okay today I finished my crossover pipe to make these headers work . I got the drivers side from a friend and the passenger side from another friend so had to fab up a crossover pipe to make them work .
IMG_8583.JPG
IMG_8589.JPG
IMG_8590.JPG
IMG_8595.JPG
IMG_8594.JPG
 
Okay so I finally got the right size belt 46" . I also plumed my oil bypass line into the top of the timing cover because the champion bracket wouldn't let me go to the fuel pump block off plate . I'm going to be pluming in a LS1 smog pump with -12 lines to help evacuate my crank case pressure . My pushrods (7.825)should be here by the end of the week aswell as my 7168 comp turbo .im shooting for this weekend to fire her . I'm having a BBQ on sat with all the local gn guys to celebrate this historic day lol jk . If u are in SoCal and would like to come by and have a brew and a burger hmu .
IMG_8779.JPG
IMG_8780.JPG
IMG_8778.JPG
 
I also plumed my oil bypass line into the top of the timing cover because the champion bracket wouldn't let me go to the fuel pump block off plate . View attachment 303188View attachment 303189View attachment 303190

You actually can get to the fuel pump block off plate. The 2 aluminum 1.5" sleeves that the bolt travels threw on the Champion bracket just need to be grinded down. I did that with mine. I laid it down on a belt sander and made the circle sleeve look like a letter D. The fitting will fit in there behind the pwr steering pump with no issues.
 
You actually can get to the fuel pump block off plate. The 2 aluminum 1.5" sleeves that the bolt travels threw on the Champion bracket just need to be grinded down. I did that with mine. I laid it down on a belt sander and made the circle sleeve look like a letter D. The fitting will fit in there behind the pwr steering pump with no issues.
I just ended up drilling and tapping the top of the timing cover . I placed it right by the cam sensor pointing at the top of the cam gear so I feel it's actually getting better oiling then if it was in the block off plate .
 
Looking good. Do you have enough wrap on that pwr steering pump pulley? You might have a problem there with it. I know mine with a good 45% wrap gives me issues if it doesn't have the right tension to it. Especially seeing how we are spinning it using the smooth side of the belt, not the serpentine portion.
 
Do you have enough wrap on that pwr steering pump pulley? You might have a problem there with it. I know mine with a good 45% wrap gives me issues if it doesn't have the right tension to it. Especially seeing how we are spinning it using the smooth side of the belt, not the serpentine portion.

Yup IMO its going to need more wrap. There are solutions to this problem.
AG.
Buick (351).jpg
Buick (349).jpg
 
Yup IMO its going to need more wrap. There are solutions to this problem.
AG.
View attachment 303552 View attachment 303553

So you are saying the solution is to fab a idler pulley and move the power steering pump up? Why would Champion sell this bracket if I need to modify it some more ? Man the intakes I've had to fix the water port on both my new champion intakes and now this bracket . I'm going to run it and see how bad it is before I proceed to modify it
 
So you are saying the solution is to fab a idler pulley and move the power steering pump up? Why would Champion sell this bracket if I need to modify it some more ?

Absolutely. Champion made this bracket for the purpose of being run with a stock water pump pulley configuration. With a electric water pump, your going to have to be creative to make it work as it was originally intended. The pic below shows the way the bracket was intended to be used. Notice the amount of wrap that the pwr steering pump pulley was designed to use.
 
So you are saying the solution is to fab a idler pulley and move the power steering pump up? Why would Champion sell this bracket if I need to modify it some more ? Man the intakes I've had to fix the water port on both my new champion intakes and now this bracket . I'm going to run it and see how bad it is before I proceed to modify it

No the power steering pump is in the same spot but the alternator is swung down to increase the wrap. The bracket was never intended to be used with an electric water pump.
AG


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Okay that shouldn't be a issue as I made the bracket to be adjustable . :)
 
Top