Ah ok, understood. So I take it I should start adding that with every new oil change?
"Engine Service Soon" & more
- Thread starter eduardo
- Start date
If your car has a flat tappet cam yes a zinc additive should be used, roller cam it's not needed. Yours rpm's are high at idle. The adjuster screw on the back of the throttle body has likely been jacked with. The idle rpm's should be around 850. Change your own oil and use a wic 51036 filter. Don't trust Jiffy Lube at all or any other place to change your oil! We have a ton of people in Houston that can help you. Post up in the Texas section and find a turbo regal buddy close to you.
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Understood, will do! And Thanks for the information Shawn i really appreciate it my man.
87 Buick Specs
engine: 4.1(.030 over) forged pistons, ported irons/intake, 210/215 roller, hi vol front cover, precision bb/h2o cooled 6776 turbo, 60lb inj, alky inj, typeII ignition, 3" downpipe w/cutout, catback dual w/Hooker aero's, 3K stall converter, front mt. intercooler, F-body radiator w/dual fans. The motor has 2,080 /110 hours since complete buildup.
electrical: Gen II trans w/extreme chip, 3.5"LS1 MAF, scanmaster, BsTc boost control, HID headlights,
chassis: Global West tubular uca's front w/lca's rear, Belltech 2" drop B-body spindles(12" brakes), 1.5" drop springs in rear, bilsteins, air bags, cross bracing front engine comp. and rear seat area.
engine: 4.1(.030 over) forged pistons, ported irons/intake, 210/215 roller, hi vol front cover, precision bb/h2o cooled 6776 turbo, 60lb inj, alky inj, typeII ignition, 3" downpipe w/cutout, catback dual w/Hooker aero's, 3K stall converter, front mt. intercooler, F-body radiator w/dual fans. The motor has 2,080 /110 hours since complete buildup.
electrical: Gen II trans w/extreme chip, 3.5"LS1 MAF, scanmaster, BsTc boost control, HID headlights,
chassis: Global West tubular uca's front w/lca's rear, Belltech 2" drop B-body spindles(12" brakes), 1.5" drop springs in rear, bilsteins, air bags, cross bracing front engine comp. and rear seat area.
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That's not the type of rig you want to get serviced at jiffy lube.
You REALLY need to hook up with some local turbo Buick guys and sort that car out before you damage and extremely expensive engine!
Now I'm really amazed that thing doesn't have a Powerlogger in it. Somebody spend a bunch of money on the engine just to 'save' $250 on the best way to put it in tune.
Now I'm really amazed that thing doesn't have a Powerlogger in it. Somebody spend a bunch of money on the engine just to 'save' $250 on the best way to put it in tune.
DeltaBravo
Retired U.S. Army/Navy
- Joined
- Jun 14, 2014
Don't know where that bolt would go...can't help you there. But take this for what it is worth...
You have a lot of car...lots of very expensive mods. You can very quickly destroy that engine, turbo and trans if you don't know what your doing.
Two things:
First, what are you doing taking that car to jiffy lube? Don't take it to any service station or mechanic that hasn't been vetted by someone in the Buick community...anyone else will just cost you more money in the long run. These cars are very different from the common daily driver that most mechanics are used too. Two ways to keep your car running...you either have very, very, very deep pockets or, you become very, very, very, knowledgeable and do most of the work your self. Starting with doing your own oil changes.
Second, if you need to drive it prior to getting your current issues resolved. Either stay out of the boost or disconnect the rod from the waste gate. This is below the turbo and it will prevent any boost from building. Doing this will help prevent any pre-detonation (KNOCK) inside your engine. Knock can and will cause damage. Ask me how I know
Good luck and get involved with some people in this community in your area. There is so much to learn about these cars.
You have a lot of car...lots of very expensive mods. You can very quickly destroy that engine, turbo and trans if you don't know what your doing.
Two things:
First, what are you doing taking that car to jiffy lube? Don't take it to any service station or mechanic that hasn't been vetted by someone in the Buick community...anyone else will just cost you more money in the long run. These cars are very different from the common daily driver that most mechanics are used too. Two ways to keep your car running...you either have very, very, very deep pockets or, you become very, very, very, knowledgeable and do most of the work your self. Starting with doing your own oil changes.
Second, if you need to drive it prior to getting your current issues resolved. Either stay out of the boost or disconnect the rod from the waste gate. This is below the turbo and it will prevent any boost from building. Doing this will help prevent any pre-detonation (KNOCK) inside your engine. Knock can and will cause damage. Ask me how I know
Good luck and get involved with some people in this community in your area. There is so much to learn about these cars.
Yeah I agree with that. Looks like a 13mm that is used on the fuel rail or the heater pipe hold down. It may just be a dropped bolt by whoever worked on it in the past. The Jiffy Lube guy prolly found it and tried to milk more sales for repairs that are not needed. I don't see a rocker bolt making it's way in there w/o major damage to the engine and the bolt itself.
If he is getting white or gray smoke out the exhaust and the oil change place said he was burning coolant plus the tick, I would say he has already blown a head gasket. With the mods that car has and his inexperience with the car that is highly likely.
I was thinking the same thing, until I factored in that 'analysis' came from a jiffy lube guy that thinks an engine will only tick a little if it's missing a rocker bolt.
Then I noticed the mod list on a car that's running poor... So back to a blown gasket and or broken hard parts.
Then I noticed the mod list on a car that's running poor... So back to a blown gasket and or broken hard parts.
Yea Ima see if I can find some locals I can possibly meet up out here in the houston area that would be willing to give me a hand on figuring out the issues , and possibly help me out on understanding these cars a lot better
You know what I think it was you who had recommended me him a while back when my car had the broken axle/ hub assembly. Great guy but unfortunately my car insurance wasn't able to have his shop work on my car due to some issues had came up. Money is extreamly tight right now but I'll see what I can do. Thanks again, I'll make sure to check out any local meet ups in the area as well!
Yea for the moment I just use the car for work purposes, luckily I don't work to far from the house (about a 9 min drive tops). I really do need to get involved with the G body community around here. I know there's so much to learn about these cars and what to watch for so yea it's about time I look into it. And like you said I'd either really need deep pockets or be knowledgeable when it comes down to the mechanics of these cars. I'ma go on and say I don't have deep pockets nor want deep pockets to be digging in when it comes down to the maintenance/repairs, not if I can help it and do it myself haha. Thanks for the advice, Ima start with doing my own oil changes as you said and hopefully with time and the right help..I'll be on my way.Don't know where that bolt would go...can't help you there. But take this for what it is worth...
You have a lot of car...lots of very expensive mods. You can very quickly destroy that engine, turbo and trans if you don't know what your doing.
Two things:
First, what are you doing taking that car to jiffy lube? Don't take it to any service station or mechanic that hasn't been vetted by someone in the Buick community...anyone else will just cost you more money in the long run. These cars are very different from the common daily driver that most mechanics are used too. Two ways to keep your car running...you either have very, very, very deep pockets or, you become very, very, very, knowledgeable and do most of the work your self. Starting with doing your own oil changes.
Second, if you need to drive it prior to getting your current issues resolved. Either stay out of the boost or disconnect the rod from the waste gate. This is below the turbo and it will prevent any boost from building. Doing this will help prevent any pre-detonation (KNOCK) inside your engine. Knock can and will cause damage. Ask me how I know
Good luck and get involved with some people in this community in your area. There is so much to learn about these cars.
DeltaBravo
Retired U.S. Army/Navy
- Joined
- Jun 14, 2014
Because your using this race built Buick to do your daily work commute....please, please add some zinc (since we don't know if you have rollers or not) and disconnect this rod to prevent any further damage.
But if it is possible, find another way to commute to work. I wouldn't drive it any more until you get some answers. It could be something that takes a couple of hours or maybe a head gaskets replacement. But if you keep driving, it might turn into more time and money.
HThanks for the the arrow, I assumed that was what y'all had mentioned but I wasn't certain. I'll disconnect it tonight
hey I appreciate the photo, I assumed that's the rod yall were talking about. I just wasn't sure but now that I see it is, I'll make sure to get is disconnected as soon as I have the chance.
Thanks!
