Ist pass 6.9 @ 103

strungout6

Active Member
Joined
Feb 14, 2016
Well I finally started tuning on my car. The local 1/8 mile track was hooking great last night. Leaving at 3k was a 6.9 at 103. 3200 was 6.7 and 3300 was 6.6. The mph was consistent. On the last pass however it really started to dig and I heard a pop. My RJC engine brace broke my bellhousing. Just fyi to those interested in this brace it is possible. I loaded it on the trailer instead of making another pass because at the time I didnt know what the noise was, when I drove it around the block today the powermaster went out 1st time I touched the brakes. I consider myself very lucky because the run off at the track is super short and there is a treeline at the end. I did dissapoint a KID in a new z28 :). So all in all it was TOTALLY WORTH IT. I was at 24lbs of boost too. Havent even begun to turn it up.
 

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Damn.

That sucks on the brace.

Such a good unit too.

How tight did you have it?

How far in to the run did it break?

Thanks
D
 
Right off the light. The front started to lift....POP...layed back down and went straight. I kept my foot in it because it was running fine and was going straight. I had it tight, 40 ftlbs if I remember.
 
That's hauling azz man, congrats! Interesting to see your results with different launch rpm. If you listed the 60' with each pass that would be extremely useful as well. Trans-brake?
 
No just the TR6 two step, no brake. My slips are in the console of the car and its on jack stands (custom anti-theft device) waiting on my poly mounts. I will dig them out and post the 60's/launch rpm after this weekend. I will be on the lake for the next 5 days WOOHOO.
 
Finally got my HR poly mounts..Super well made pieces. Now if the car would just absorb them. Its so hot in the shop...
 
Pauls engine mounts are one of the best upgrades you can do....lets you eliminate all of the other stuff
that really does not get the job done anyway.
 
The mounts were a super easy install. Pull the long bolts, jack the engine up with a 4x4 across the oil pan, remove the engine mount to block bolts, stick your tounge out and cross your big toes to fish the old mounts out. Install new mounts in reverse order. I guess I am going to sell that RJC mount, I will not charge extra for my chunk of bell-housing.
 
Ouch with the RJC mount , I'm running one of those but don't have the HP you do , Motor mounts have gotten moved way up on the upgrade list .
 
That device is a no go unless the engine isn't moving or moving very little. The forces that the case/block are subjected to when the engine rotates even a little are too much for the minimal cross section in those areas. I have 2 broken engine blocks and have seen at least 4 trans cases broken with that piece. Use a more rigid engine mount and make an engine plate to prevent engine rotation.


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That device is a no go unless the engine isn't moving or moving very little. The forces that the case/block are subjected to when the engine rotates even a little are too much for the minimal cross section in those areas. I have 2 broken engine blocks and have seen at least 4 trans cases broken with that piece. Use a more rigid engine mount and make an engine plate to prevent engine rotation.


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So a upgraded drivers side motor mount fix me up ? Thanks Keith
 
Both mounts. To further limit rotation an engine plate could be fabricated but it would need more than one attachment point


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Yea, I can attest to what Bison said. Not only did that brace break my bell housing but when it torqued over it broke two exhaust hangars. I should have just spent the money when the engine was out and bought the mounts. It is my 1st turbo Buick and I didn't expect it to run like it does. I guess that's why hindsight is always 20/20.
 
3/8" alum plate bolted to rear of dr head. Cable looped to a tab on the lower a arm bolt. Cable double clamped...Mid 9's at 140+, stock mounts. No problems.
I did this as I had one of the first sets of poly mts. They were harder than the back of Superman's head, put my hands and feet to sleep.
Only person riding in the car that liked the ride, was my GF...She had a silly smile on her face.:smuggrin:
 
3/8" alum plate bolted to rear of dr head. Cable looped to a tab on the lower a arm bolt. Cable double clamped...Mid 9's at 140+, stock mounts. No problems.
I did this as I had one of the first sets of poly mts. They were harder than the back of Superman's head, put my hands and feet to sleep.
Only person riding in the car that liked the ride, was my GF...She had a silly smile on her face.:smuggrin:
I believe I am familiar with that "silly smile" my GF seems to have it when she rides my jet ski. For the life of me I cannot seem to get her to come back when she leaves on it. Its an older seadoo xp and it has just the right vibration.
 
Man you guys got me scared now. Guess I'll finally put a pair or HR mounts on my short list and get rid of the ratchet strap. Maybe then guys will stop laughing at car shows. Its almost fun to watch them point snd giggle at the ratchet strap lol

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Man you guys got me scared now. Guess I'll finally put a pair or HR mounts on my short list and get rid of the ratchet strap. Maybe then guys will stop laughing at car shows. Its almost fun to watch them point snd giggle at the ratchet strap lol

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Ratchet strap worked for years and doesn't transfer the engine harmonics inside the car. They are prone to failure and bending at the hook though


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