New Motor Build Question - Stroker (Flat tapper) or Stock Stroke (Roller)?

Chris McDade

Active Member
Joined
Jul 13, 2001
It's time for a new rebuild. I hurt my #1 piston about 2 months ago. I wanted to get you guys opinion. I have a budget just like all of us on this board.

Which route would you go and why

Stroker with flat tapper cam?

Or

Stock stroke with roller cam?

Im getting different opinions from our supporting vendors.

Thanks
 
Last edited:
What's your goal? What's your budget? What are your current supporting mods?

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It time for a new rebuild. I hurt my #1 piston about 2 months ago. I wanted to get you guys opinion. I have a budget just like all of us on this board.

Which route would you go and why

Stroker with flat tapper cam?

Or

Stock stroke with roller cam?

Im getting different opinions from our support vendors.

Thanks

I've been well aware that "budget" and "Buick" do NOT go hand and hand:D
 
Budget is about $4500 - $5000

Goal is Mid to low 10's. Current mods PTE SLIC, 66S trim, ported heads and intake, 72,s, Alky, Built trans, 9"AC, 3.5" THDP...etc.
 
Tried n true speed-pro 204-214 cs1016r has gone 133, maybe faster by now..
 
Stock stroke is plenty for your goal of mid 10s. Stock stroke has been in the deep 8s on a 109 block. Fyi. I definitely go with roller cam.... and all forged bottom end... no need for a stroker the added cost of machine work not worth it for your goals..
 
Your goals can be met easily like said above. Stock stroke, roller cam, billet mains, forged pistons.

I'm guessing you already know what you need as your sig shows that you had two cars in the tens already.
 
I would much rather have a stock stroke engine that runs than a stroker with flat lobes that took out my engine and my turbo.
 
Good stuff guys. Never messed with stroker stuff before so, I wasn't sure if it was worth the extra money. I guess if, my goal was mid 9's then it would be the way to go. I would like to build a reliable 10 sec car. So, this is what im going to build:

109
Stock crank and Rods
JE's
218/218 Roller
girlded bottom end
Ported heads and intake
93/alky Combo will be good for mid 10's easy.

Im considering going to 85 down the road.

Thanks
 
i see,in your sig., you have experience with 3 other 10.sec rides....wondering if they where stock crank builds too?
 
Yes, all have stock crank and rods.

My dads car is running stock crank and rods, iron heads, 70 hpq , flat tappet 218/218 on c16
 
im rite around the same power and keep waiting for the crank to snap.... you must have good luck lol ...ever broke one?
 
im rite around the same power and keep waiting for the crank to snap.... you must have good luck lol ...ever broke one?
I just sheared my stock crank in half.....the front main bearings seized up because of a faulty oil pump....this caused the excessive torsion in the crankshaft, which caused it to shear in half.

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I did break a stock crank on a completely stock long block a long time ago. All the motors I build now have a RJC girdles on them. Never broke a crank with a girdle on the motor.
 
I did break a stock crank on a completely stock long block a long time ago. All the motors I build now have a RJC girdles on them. Never broke a crank with a girdle on the motor.
Thank you, I will definitely buy a RJC girdle for my rebuild (currently in progress).

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Ouch.....good luck with the rebuild....or new engine.
 
This is an interesting topic.

Would someone mind explaining the pros & cons of using the original crank plus a girdle vs. using an after-market crank?

What about using steel main caps?

I avoid purchasing Chinese products as much as possible. Are there any after-market cranks & rods that are completely manufactured in the USA?

Thank you
 
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