Recent content by ZBass28

Where would you like me to send the file to Lonnie?

Lonnie, I have tried that recently. In fact, I did it with the timing too so that everything in a certain area remained a constant. I still would have the same problems. I'll copy the current tables tomorrow and send them over to you. Thanks for taking the time. I honestly don't think...

Ran the car idling in closed loop.... Basically my VE numbers were dead on, even in closed loop the corrections were 0.0% to -3.1% and the car ran as it always did. Again voltages dropped from 14.15v at start up and 2 minutes of run time down to 13.4v after about 10 minutes of run time. At...

Ok, looks like I will send the ECU in for an update then since it's old school. I used to run in closed loop all the time (including idle) and the car would idle like crap. It would never idle smoothly. I was told by someone (years back we're talking) to let the car idle in open loop, set...

Went out and bought a Sears Die Hard 40amp rapid charger with the engine start option. I let the car run for the first 10 minutes, and as usual it ran great. I hooked a multimeter up and when the FAST dashboard was saying 13.8v, that was the exact reading I was getting at the battery. FAST...

The charger is just a Century 10 Amp charger. Injectors are 65# low impedence Siemens Deka. By version of FAST do you mean the version in the ECU? Whatever was in there back in 2000 is what is there. If just CCom software, I was having this problem running both the DOS laptop version and...

The car is running in open loop up to 2000 rpms. As far as I know there shouldn't be an issue with the gas tank. Car has had this setup for 7 or 8 years, but this is the first time something like this has taken place. I'm not sure I follow the scenario of getting the stand alone O2, or...

Tried this and am really not sure what the results (if any) really indicate. Started the car, it ran fine for the first 10 minutes as usual. Took note of the voltage display on the FAST dashboard and it was showing 13.9v when it first started. After about 10 minutes of running it started...

Haven't driven the car again yet, but did find another thing that has been happening for a while now..... I took off the y-pipe and brought it to get checked out and welded if needed. Nothing looks like it's leaking. I disconnected the entire intake tract from the blower to the throttle body...

I'll have to look into the coil scenario, who knows, that could be a possibility. EGR has been removed a long time ago. I'll double check PCV but everything looked good at first glance.

I have no corrections for air or engine temps in the spots remotely near where the problems occur. The only time I have any sort of enrichment is in the very cold areas. After start is same as it's always been for 7 years, this is really the first time I have seen this problem manifest like...

Fuel pressure stays steady while this is happening. I removed the y-pipe, checked all gaskets, flanges...no signs of any leaks. Checked all header bolts to make sure none were loose or backing out, checked gaskets as well and everything looks good.

Car runs in open loop up until 2000 rpms, so the idle problems shouldn't be affected by anything the 02 is doing, but it will run perfect, then lean when warm, then rich some time later, then lean...etc. Bob, let's say car is supposed to run at 14.0 at 2000 rpms around 45-50 on the MAP...

Air temp sensor is located in the aluminum elbow just before the throttle body (if you are familiar with LT1 engines) Ever since this has been happening, which is recently, I have been thinking there has to be a vacuum leak or an exhaust leak. So far, I have found neither. Tomorrow I will...

I'm thinking it has to be a leak somewhere too, I can't figure out what else it could be..... What about a small leak post 02? That really shouldn't affect anything, right? Timing at idle is set at anywhere from 20 to 24*