Which LSx motor to use?

[jcj53115]

Well I'm strongly thinking of a Twin Turbo LSX for the GN this winter and wanna know what everyone thinks is the best canidate for this conversion. I cant keep all these LS motors str8, since there seems to be a dozen of em, LS1, LS2,LS6,LS7, heard about one which was an iron block that came in the trucks?( is this a iron headed motor to) Seems there's so many which one should I start with? Keep in mind my GN is a TRUE DAILY DRIVEN street car from March thru November. My goals are 700-800rwhp when I'm done which seems fairly obtainable with what Ive seen others doing.

So which LS? motor should I use for a base? Something that wont require a ton or any internals for my goals?

[Kevin87TurboT]

I'd recommend a 6.0L out of a truck. Look for an LQ4 or an LQ9...either would be a good baseline. The earlier models did have cast iron heads, but all of the later stuff came with good aluminum heads. For 700rwhp, you could use the stock crank, with good rods and pistons and even stock or mildly ported stock heads, just crank up the boost. Good Luck!

[NothinYet]

id say LQ9 over LQ4, just my 2 cents...

Then again, if you are made of money, buy an LS7... already has a forged crank, titanium rods, etc, but you would need to lower the compression a ton. (pistons)

Gm has already tested the LS7 with lower compression with a supercharger... made stupid amounts of power... Doesnt take as much boost to make tons of power, has much larger displacement then the rest of the LSx motors!

I dont honestly think an LQ9 will get you to your goals without tapping into the bottom end... 650-700HP is PUSHING it.

Again, just my 2 cents...

[ITSNOTAGN]

i would pick any one of them. Unless you go LS7 ($$$) you will need pistons and rods anyway. i would personally go with a LS2 alum block, with a camaro or vette accesory drive, the truck accessories dont fit with stock steering components.
Otherwise go for a LQ4 (what i have) and a 4l80e combo from a 3/4 ton pickup. Its low compression, 9.4:1, and you shouldnt have to do much to the trans to make it hold that. Plus get HP Tuners or EFILive to control the engine and trans. I was getting about 570-600whp out of mine without an intercooler, nothing but a cam.
Gary

[johnplogii]

I have a 6.0L iron motor for sale for $650

[machinegun]

Well, how crazy do you want to get? I have mine all layed out. Will go in a buick regal not a GN but here is my paperd combo

GM's new LSX block.

Forged Stroker crank

I beam rods

Forged pistons at about 8.5 - 9 : 1

Iron heads from a truck

Mild Cam

427 ci

Turboed.

4l80E

Should be fun.

[ITSNOTAGN]

why on earth would you use iron heads? the aluminum heads are >50lbs lighter and are the same if not better casting. And if you want to argue about deck strength, you have no argument. With studs 317 castings have been known to hold 18-20psi without pushing water. And a 427+18psi would be pretty much uncontrollable, like 1200rwhp or more.
Gary

[FreeBoost]

Definitely select the LS7. I’ve got a Lingenfelter twin turbo in my C6 Z06 making 700 hp at the wheels on pump gas and no alky – yes it is stupid fast. The package includes ball bearing turbos, rods, pistons, balance & blueprint fuel system upgrades and a duel 4” exhaust. The motor is capable of 1000 crank hp. The red one the net was done the same time as mine. The difference if the manifold and 16 injector set-up. Since it runs the stock cam it is very streetable – until you step into it.
YouTube - Lingenfelter C6 ZO6 1000 HP Twin Turbo Corvette Chassis Dyno

[Vett-Klr]

The LS1, LS2, and LS6 are basically the same. The LS2 and LS6 have the better heads. The LS2 has the cam from the 01 Z06's (LS6) and the cam sensor was moved to the front of the motor, other than that and LS2 is an LS1. The LS7 has the forged components, but they sell for about $13,000. You can get an LS6 for 3-4K. My buddy had twins on his LS6, with stock heads and put down over 1000HP. He had to tune it down to race, it ran low 8's hundreds of times. The LS7 uses the dry sump, I'm not sure you want to mess with that, but thats your choice.
Let us know what you decide...

[Rosewood T-Type]

Originally Posted by Vett-Klr

The LS1, LS2, and LS6 are basically the same. The LS2 and LS6 have the better heads. The LS2 has the cam from the 01 Z06's (LS6) and the cam sensor was moved to the front of the motor, other than that and LS2 is an LS1. The LS7 has the forged components, but they sell for about $13,000. You can get an LS6 for 3-4K. My buddy had twins on his LS6, with stock heads and put down over 1000HP. He had to tune it down to race, it ran low 8's hundreds of times. The LS7 uses the dry sump, I'm not sure you want to mess with that, but thats your choice.
Let us know what you decide...

Not true the ls2 is a 6.0l and the ls1 as well as the ls6 are 5.7l.
You should go to ls1tech.com because your getting bad info.
If your on a budget go with the lq9 as it has dished (about 9.2 to 1 CR) pistons and great boost heads. Stay away from lq4 as it has flat top pistons (about 10.5 to 1 CR). The ls2 is the same as the lq4 except aluminum. LSx = aluminum, LQx = iron.

If your able to spend more money and want a bullet proof setup, To meet your goals go to scoggin dickey performance center and buy a forged 402 6.0l LS based stroker short block and stock (317) 6.0l heads or a 408 LQ based 6.0l iron stroker short block and 317 heads.

Please do your own research first but IMO you'll easily hit your goals and reasonably cheap. And if you go with the stroker short block you can easily do it with a single turbo or even a procharger.

I have a N/A ls1(5.7l) stock unopened bottom end making 465 rwhp with heads and cam and of course bolt ons. after Xmas I'll be doing a magnusson roots style S/Charger with only 6#s of boost and should be, from my research close to 625 rwhp. On pump gas no less!

Thanks for listening and PM me if you have any other ?s
Doug

[rking]

Here you go, start researching!

Forced Induction - LS1TECH

Your goals are very reachable on a stock LSx/LQx, however, that amount of power on stock rods and pistons for a long time would make me nervous! But I understand costs, just know that rods and pistons WILL be needed in the future, the cranks are of no worries, they're awesome in these things.

Personally, I prefer the LSx's that have the 4" bore, ie. your LS2, LS3, L92, LQ4, LQ9. The heads for this bore are so much better, and very affordable.

If you're worried about weight in the already massive GN, go with aluminum, if not go with iron. At your goals, either will work, however, iron will be cheaper

If you want to spend the cash, listen to Doug on the shortblocks, and consider some of the LS3/L92 heads.

I wouldn't even consider a LS7, theres just no point to spend that kind of money.

Just my $.02

[NothinYet]

Originally Posted by Rosewood T-Type

Not true the ls2 is a 6.0l and the ls1 as well as the ls6 are 5.7l.
You should go to ls1tech.com because your getting bad info.
If your on a budget go with the lq9 as it has dished (about 9.2 to 1 CR) pistons and great boost heads. Stay away from lq4 as it has flat top pistons (about 10.5 to 1 CR). The ls2 is the same as the lq4 except aluminum. LSx = aluminum, LQx = iron.

If your able to spend more money and want a bullet proof setup, To meet your goals go to scoggin dickey performance center and buy a forged 402 6.0l LS based stroker short block and stock (317) 6.0l heads or a 408 LQ based 6.0l iron stroker short block and 317 heads.

Please do your own research first but IMO you'll easily hit your goals and reasonably cheap. And if you go with the stroker short block you can easily do it with a single turbo or even a procharger.

I have a N/A ls1(5.7l) stock unopened bottom end making 465 rwhp with heads and cam and of course bolt ons. after Xmas I'll be doing a magnusson roots style S/Charger with only 6#s of boost and should be, from my research close to 625 rwhp. On pump gas no less!

Thanks for listening and PM me if you have any other ?s
Doug

Whats that? Scrotum Dick performance! LOL!

(sorry, I had to.)

[Rosewood T-Type]

Originally Posted by rking

Here you go, start researching!

Forced Induction - LS1TECH

Your goals are very reachable on a stock LSx/LQx, however, that amount of power on stock rods and pistons for a long time would make me nervous! But I understand costs, just know that rods and pistons WILL be needed in the future, the cranks are of no worries, they're awesome in these things.

Personally, I prefer the LSx's that have the 4" bore, ie. your LS2, LS3, L92, LQ4, LQ9. The heads for this bore are so much better, and very affordable.

If you're worried about weight in the already massive GN, go with aluminum, if not go with iron. At your goals, either will work, however, iron will be cheaper

If you want to spend the cash, listen to Doug on the shortblocks, and consider some of the LS3/L92 heads.

I wouldn't even consider a LS7, theres just no point to spend that kind of money.

Just my $.02

I agree with most of that except for the l92 heads. They are great for n/a but lack the exhaust flow for forced induction. The out of the box 317 heads are a much better (money wise) choice. Plus you can use the truck intake manifold with these heads. The l92s require a l76 intake and ls2 style T/body.
Doug

[red83]

Originally Posted by NothinYet

id say LQ9 over LQ4, just my 2 cents...

Then again, if you are made of money, buy an LS7... already has a forged crank, titanium rods, etc, but you would need to lower the compression a ton. (pistons)

Gm has already tested the LS7 with lower compression with a supercharger... made stupid amounts of power... Doesnt take as much boost to make tons of power, has much larger displacement then the rest of the LSx motors!

I dont honestly think an LQ9 will get you to your goals without tapping into the bottom end... 650-700HP is PUSHING it.

Again, just my 2 cents...

lq4 if your not wanting to change pistons
lq4=9.4:1
lq9=10.2:1
these are factory numbers
these motors are identical except the pistons, same heads, etc, etc, etc

Originally Posted by Rosewood T-Type

I agree with most of that except for the l92 heads. They are great for n/a but lack the exhaust flow for forced induction. The out of the box 317 heads are a much better (money wise) choice. Plus you can use the truck intake manifold with these heads. The l92s require a l76 intake and ls2 style T/body.
Doug

if you have a custom cam made the l92 heads would be fine, but the intake for the l92 heads run out of steam at 6k. you could always go with a carb intake and run a custom elbow to keep the fuel inj.

[rking]

Originally Posted by Rosewood T-Type

I agree with most of that except for the l92 heads. They are great for n/a but lack the exhaust flow for forced induction. The out of the box 317 heads are a much better (money wise) choice. Plus you can use the truck intake manifold with these heads. The l92s require a l76 intake and ls2 style T/body.
Doug

Very true. I sometimes forget about those things since I do my own port work .

For his goals, and that many cubic inches, they would still do the job very easily. Some people are getting great results with them. Also, on the intake side, Weiand has a great one coming out for those heads pretty soon IIRC.