Update LS1 GN winter mods

[ITSNOTAGN]

Well its time to update my build again. So heres a link to pictures that i FINALLY got put up online.
Grrh77 - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting
So, heres the plan for the winter. As you will see in the pics, i have removed my tubular headers, they worked really great and make some sick power in the midrange and up top. But i am getting ready to make this a straight street car again. I have re-installed the heater box, and am making brand new log style manifolds. These are using 3/8" mild steel flanges, with Schedule 10 stainless weld els. Primary diameter is 1 5/8", with a 2.5" main log. I am keeping these as short as possible to promote spoolup, but using a big enough main log to be efficient to at least 1000whp. For the drivers manifold, it will come forward and down, right where the steering box is, and directly under the crank pulley. I am doing this because i am also converting to a manual rack and pinion steering, removed the stock steering componets last night, man are they heavy.
Also plans include pulling the dash and removing and cleaning up all wire harnesses, removing the asphalt sound deadener on the firewall, and installing dynamat on the firewall, floor, and trunk areas. A complete stereo is also getting put back in, with 6x9s new dash and door speakers, and a 12" sub with 350 watt Xtant amp.
For the Air conditioning, i am designing and making a sweet bracket system that will include the A/C compressor and the alternator, will post pics of that when i get it made. Compressor will be in the stock Buick location, drivers side of the water pump and use 1 idler pulley before the crankshaft. These brackets will use 3 head bolt holes and 1 brace from the compressor to the side of the block.
Once this stuff is all made, i will be pulling the engine and trans to do paintwork, valve springs, and gasket match the heads. Also installing ARP rod bolts is on the agenda so far, to safely go up to 650whp. I am getting nervous now as i am around 660hp at the crank, and i expect to gain 50-60hp when i install an intercooler, which should be next summer.
Aside from that, i will be ordering the manual rack in a week or so, and progress with the drivers manifold once i have a solid steering shaft location. BTW, i made the pass manifold in 2 evenings, it was not hard at all. So i hope this gives you guys some ideas on the easiest way to make a single turbo system. Clearance is excellent, and a 4" downpipe will easily fit even with the heater box. Bottom of the manifold to engine crossmember is enough to get my fingers between, but the motor will be raised about .1" with poly motor mounts . Look at the pics, leave some comments.
Gary

[John Wilde]

Gary the myspace link did not work for me.
Thanks for the update on your project.

[ITSNOTAGN]

fixed link to my photobucket account. ill add more pics there later
Gary

[jehenke]

Looks great. What motor mounts are you planning on using? Thanks, Jim

[BlackMetal]

That thing looks awesome! Thanks for sharing the details. Maybe some day...

[ITSNOTAGN]

Originally Posted by jehenke

Looks great. What motor mounts are you planning on using? Thanks, Jim

Well i used the regular old clamshell mount bolted to the frame, from an old a body, and made a mount to bolt to the block, flat plate with 2 arms going down to the mount, thats it. I plan on filling them with poly this time as they settled a little bit and i want it just a hair higher.
Gary

[Turbo6Smackdown]

Originally Posted by ITSNOTAGN

Well its time to update my build again. So heres a link to pictures that i FINALLY got put up online.
Grrh77 - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting
So, heres the plan for the winter. As you will see in the pics, i have removed my tubular headers, they worked really great and make some sick power in the midrange and up top. But i am getting ready to make this a straight street car again. I have re-installed the heater box, and am making brand new log style manifolds. These are using 3/8" mild steel flanges, with Schedule 10 stainless weld els. Primary diameter is 1 5/8", with a 2.5" main log. I am keeping these as short as possible to promote spoolup, but using a big enough main log to be efficient to at least 1000whp. For the drivers manifold, it will come forward and down, right where the steering box is, and directly under the crank pulley. I am doing this because i am also converting to a manual rack and pinion steering, removed the stock steering componets last night, man are they heavy.
Also plans include pulling the dash and removing and cleaning up all wire harnesses, removing the asphalt sound deadener on the firewall, and installing dynamat on the firewall, floor, and trunk areas. A complete stereo is also getting put back in, with 6x9s new dash and door speakers, and a 12" sub with 350 watt Xtant amp.
For the Air conditioning, i am designing and making a sweet bracket system that will include the A/C compressor and the alternator, will post pics of that when i get it made. Compressor will be in the stock Buick location, drivers side of the water pump and use 1 idler pulley before the crankshaft. These brackets will use 3 head bolt holes and 1 brace from the compressor to the side of the block.
Once this stuff is all made, i will be pulling the engine and trans to do paintwork, valve springs, and gasket match the heads. Also installing ARP rod bolts is on the agenda so far, to safely go up to 650whp. I am getting nervous now as i am around 660hp at the crank, and i expect to gain 50-60hp when i install an intercooler, which should be next summer.
Aside from that, i will be ordering the manual rack in a week or so, and progress with the drivers manifold once i have a solid steering shaft location. BTW, i made the pass manifold in 2 evenings, it was not hard at all. So i hope this gives you guys some ideas on the easiest way to make a single turbo system. Clearance is excellent, and a 4" downpipe will easily fit even with the heater box. Bottom of the manifold to engine crossmember is enough to get my fingers between, but the motor will be raised about .1" with poly motor mounts . Look at the pics, leave some comments.
Gary

Good lord where do you find this time at?

[ITSNOTAGN]

ah, time, its laying all over the place, you just have to know where to look! It doesnt take as long to do this stuff as you would think, as long as its planned out before hand.

Another update, since i removed the factory steering, the factory truck manifold fits on the drivers side absolutely dead nuts on. the outlet even curves out into the pocket in the frame for the steering box. I cut some templates out of tag board last night, and rough cut the outside acc mouting plate, this afternoon i will cut both of them and hopefully get some spacers measured out to finish it up. So its just crossover pipe, weld the pass manifold and T6 flange on, and i can pull the motor for paint. Also I have decided to not do any headwork or anything, just valvesprings and rod bolts. Instead going to add a nice 4" thick intercooler on it and keep it at 600whp for the year. Would rather save up for brakes and wheel/tires before going any faster. Will post pics this weekend again.
Gary

[ITSNOTAGN]

Theres some more pics on the first link of how the drivers manifold goes and the crossover. Waiting on a 2.5" flex to finish it up right now and a T6 flange to be finished.
Gary

[ITSNOTAGN]

Some updates:
New pics on link in first post
Filled extra holes in firewall
Coated firewall with heat/sound barrier. I used a product from Second Skin Audo, called Firewall. THis stuff is like toothpaste, and I applied it 1/4"-3/8" thick. It is a ceramic based heat and sound barrier, which i then painted black and applied a closed cell sound barrier on top of it.
Re-installed the wiring harness, and let me tell you, it is so much easier to work under there with just a 1" round bundle of wires instead of them being loose and unorganized.
Re-installed the dashboard, i also applied the closed cell foam barrier to the ducktwork, heater box, front upper speaker panel, and backside of the dashboard. This should substantially reduce engine and blower noise in the cabin.
Painted firewall and front frame horns gloss black, before it was a semi-gloss with just POR-15.
De-greased, sandblasted and painted engine. Most of this is done now, just have a few brackets, pulleys and stuff to paint. It should be back in the car in 2 weeks. I am waiting until after the 1st to order the rest of the gaskets and stuff i need to finish assembly.
OH, and i bought a 10" 3200 stall Fuddle converter, that should help it out a little bit. Stocker is 13.5", 1800 stall and weighs in at 71lbs. New one is 36lbs. Nice little reduction in rotating weight i would say. Hopefully i can get into the 10s on pump gas and street tires now
Gary

[ITSNOTAGN]

I have some new stuff to post! I have gotten alot done in the last 2 weeks, since its finally warm outside and i can work with the shop open. The motor is back in the chassis and assembled. Have the 3200 stall in there and pretty much everything in and most all the wiring done. Need to install the wideband and hook up the fuel guage, put the steering on, and assemble this rearend, and i think it will be ready!
The rear is a 9" G-body housing with 31 spline mosers, lightened spool and 11" disk brakes. All from Quick performance. This was a very good buy in my opinion. $1220 for all of it including shipping. This also included 1/2" wheelstuds, full bearing and install kit. The only things left to get are a carrier and gears, which i got for $90. Plus those brakes are HUGE, should stop considerably better than the stock drums.
For gears i got a set of 3.07s from a winston cup car, for $40. This is exactly what i wanted for a ratio and will really make the car cruise nice, and with the stall i wanted a bit more gear anyway.
A TRZ manual rack and pinion is in the mail, the piping for the downpipe will be in next week (BTW, i got it through work which is a truck shop, 4"90* bneds were $15, and a 4" v-band clamp and flanges was only $16, HA) and if im not working every day i should have this back on the road at the end of the month. maybe not all the way done, but done enough!
pics of it almost ready to go!
Grrh77 - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting
To see alot more pics of the progress through the winter, click the 87 Buick album link in the upper left corner!
And would you guys leave some comments on here? Not much action in this forum.
Gary

[blestx4]

Man this and the ls series lower prices is really making me think of moth balling the 3.8 and gettin alittle crazy with mine. I dont remember, but are you running a 4l80 trans? If not do you know if they will fit without tunnel mods? Excuse me duhhhh. I just read your car specs. If you had to modify the tunnel , then by how much. I put a t-56 in a 78 malibu and it required some surgery to the tunnel.

[topher455]

Hey Gary the car is lookin great. All the extra work really paid off. Could you show how you had the ps and alt mounted before I cant seem to find it and I need some ideas for my setup. Thanks.

BTW any links you know of for diy accessory brackets or pics anything will help get the creative juices going.

[ITSNOTAGN]

Thanks guys. For the 4l80, the only modding i did was once i had the motor mounts in, i jacked up the back of the trans a little higher than i wanted it, lifting the car some, and beat on the tunnel from the interior a bit to form it. The (2nd?) gear anchor sticks out a long way on this trans, but that was pretty much the only point that was close. no cutting needed or anything

And for I never used the PS with this, only an alternator. For that i just cut the stock bracket up last year and used it. This time im only using alt and A/C, and im gonna draw a bracket up in CAD and have it laser cut i think. Ill know more about that later, as im just gonna run the Alt. for the first month or so.
Gary

[topher455]

Thanks for the reply.

[QTRMILER]

Looks very nice, great photos.