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I know a engine builder here that has got a little of 400hp out of a 305. It was built for a circle track car. The heads is where its' at
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1987 GN 47K 1987 GN 26K 1987 T 18K A few more TR's! T6P.COM Big Wood Racing Where Fast is never Fast enough! BoostedWhips.com Super-Motocross.com TheBassForums.com NCSHANE.COM |
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chevy 305/350 and Olds 307 . . . totally different animal. This question has been beat to death over on OldsPower.com The best mod you can make to a 307 is replacing it. 330/350/403 should bolt right in, and a 425/455 would bolt in and fit with a little work. Putting a Chevy in is a bit of a pain, and NO chevy V8 parts will interchange with the Olds engine.
Oh, Mondello isn't called Mondollar for no reason. . .you can find a lot better prices.
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79 Cutlass: Stock '73 Old's 350 - 15.8's 87 GN Astro-roof - 12.34@110.72 on 1.922 60' (19 psi and BFG TA's). . more tuning to do TE-44, 50#, turbotweak chip, 206/206 comp cam, unknown head work, ATR headers/wastegate, Mease Intercooler. . . Last edited by samandw : February 21st, 2007 at 05:13 PM. |
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I ran a 403 in my old 79 T/A. Very mild build and it was pretty good. index Sold it when I got my first taste of a Turbo Buick.
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87 TurboT--GT6131, 60lb injectors, Precision sl intercooler, Hooker cat back exhaust, THDP, home made Big Mouth, pp, 62mm tb, adj fr, Walbro 340/hotwire, AlkyControl kit, Turbo Tweak 93+alky chip, HR lower control arms, air bags, ATR bar, Powerlogger/wideband best et 11.79@113.86 http://s64.photobucket.com/albums/h1...secondpass.flv |
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403 is a nice all around motor IMO. nice torque, similar to a pontiac 400,which i am kinda partial to.
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87 GN t-top, '69 mach 1, '68 fastback (Bullitt clone), '02 supercrew 4X4 (True Blue), '76 trans am t-top, '01 focus svt, '87 305 formula, '91 2.3L turbo To4E mustang notch |
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I'd say the only significant drawbacks to the 403 is that even with the big bore and short stroke you can't rev it real hard because the "windowed" main webs in the block make it too weak. Keep the rpms well under 7000. Also you can only safely bore them .030 so if you find one and it's already been bored once and needs it again, keep walking. They also tend to run a bit hot so be sure you have a very capable cooling system. But beyond that, they make a great sleeper motor because to you can pass em' off as a 307 or even a 260.
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Sorry for the bit of a thread revival here, but I searched for the answer to this question for a long time without getting much farther than "replace the motor". Hopefully, this can be of some help. From personal experience:
1) If you want to go fast (and by that I mean, not get dusted from a stop light by an F150), stop reading now, pull the motor and replace it with a 350/403/455. Or buy a turbo car. But if you're really set on keeping the 307... 2) Going to dual high flow cats won't really gain you anything. Part of the problem is that you'll have to replace the brace for the transmission as it's only humped for the exhaust on one side. There are ways around this from buying a very expensive custom made peice, to cutting two in half and welding the two humped pieces together, or bending the pipe below the brace. But in the end, the heads are the main problem and the exhaust isn't going to let you flow any better than that horrible head design. 3) Headers won't be a gain for the same reason. 4) Instead of investing in that, find a decent 2.5" dual exhaust cat-back system and put that on. If you insist on running a cat, you can, but I fabbed up a test pipe and run that as we don't have emission requirements. This will make a difference, but true duals is overkill for the gains that you'll see. I saw a gain in the upper RPM band from this for about $250. You'll need to buy an exhaust hanger from a GN for the left side pipe that goes up and over the rear axle (the left and right brackets are not the same, no matter what anyone tells you!!). Run the Monte Carlo style mufflers for ease - just make sure you get pipes that exit out the side instead of the back. 5) Instead of having a custom cam ground, try to find the cam that came with the '87 H/O VIN 9 motors. You'll gain 40hp from the swap with no problem and probably a lot cheaper as you won't have to worry about the pushrod length, etc.. 6) If you're dead set on swapping heads, go with a set of the 5A heads from the earlier 307. You'll have to change exhaust manifolds and intake as the ports won't line up, but those can be junk yard finds. Doing any sort of head work is pretty pointless as it's the size of the valves and the swirlport head design that's the problem. You're not going to correct the bad design with a port and polish. 7) Replace the rear gears. Find a 7.5" rear end with the 3.73 gears and a posi out of a Monte Carlo, 2+2, or H/O and it's a direct swap. If you go with the 8.5" from the GN, I believe that you'll have to have a new driveshaft as well. This will make a world of difference. 8) Tune the carb up well. Make sure that the secondaries open up all the way (they probably don't. You have to bend another bracket out of the way to allow them to go fully open). 9) The only other mod that I might try is some sort of shift kit that would raise the RPM of the shift points. I find myself manually shifting the car a lot to hold the RPM coming out of first gear. If you don't, it drops into second way to early. Honestly - tune the carb, swap the rear end, and get a cat back system and then save your money for something else. This motor won't hold supercharging, turbo, or nitrous. It's a great daily driver motor, but it ends about there. Even with thousands of dollars in mods, you'll be lucky to break 200hp. Hope that helped.
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1987 T-Type One that had the misfortune of acquiring a few extra cylinders before leaving the factory. |
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If you will notice in my signature, there's a reason my Hust Old's are turbo Buick powered. I tried a lot of different setups with the 307 motors and was never happy with the performance. If you want to stay with an Olds motor, go with a 350. You can get decent heads for them and they make good power with the right parts. Been there, done that.
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1987 GN, 1986 T, 1984 Hurst Oldsmobile with 1987 GN drivetrain |
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Going the turbo route is more expensive than the 350-403 swap.I assume u have a 307 regal or cutlass,the tr swap involves many more parts than the olds swap will have.I had a cutlass hurst olds when i was in high school I put in a boneyard 403 olds in new timing chain,olds performer cam,and intake package.I live in california so i had to retain all my smog equipment the 403 ran consistant-13.8-14.0 at around 100 mph,this was with stock timing feedback carb and egr best of all i got it at pick n pull half day for 65 bucks.
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yeah i second the 403. i have one that my bro built in high school. this winter i picked up a perfect 81 grand prix diesel (olds 350 diesel) and swapped in the 403. it has ported heads, 268 cam, perf RPM intake and 600 holley with headers. this car seriously rips. on my dyno sim it says about 400hp, but 450lb-ft tq from 2000-5000rpm, and thats exactly how it feels.have a th-350 behind it and kept the stock 2.29 rear gear. needless to say this car will pull 13s all day and still knocks down a bit over 27mpg on the highway, its freakin sweet.
Gary
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87 Buick T-type WE-4, 6.0L LQ4 iron block LSx, 65# injectors, dual walbro 255s HP Tuners 2-bar Speed Density EMS 224/224-112 cam, 4L80E, Fuddle 3200stall, BW s475 turbo, 60mm wastegate, 9" rear 31 spline with spool, 3.07:1 gears, 11" rear disks, TRZ Manual Rack and Pinion full 4" exhaust with dynomax race bullets 650hp 585ft-lbs(crank)on 89 octane and no intercooler, 9.5psi-12 degrees timing 11.42@119-7psi |
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Quote:
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no, and it was a good running diesel if you can beleive that. I gave it away, damn thing was so heavy it was just rediculous. And yes ive looked into the whole diesel conversion thing and it just doesnt seem worth it.
Gary
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87 Buick T-type WE-4, 6.0L LQ4 iron block LSx, 65# injectors, dual walbro 255s HP Tuners 2-bar Speed Density EMS 224/224-112 cam, 4L80E, Fuddle 3200stall, BW s475 turbo, 60mm wastegate, 9" rear 31 spline with spool, 3.07:1 gears, 11" rear disks, TRZ Manual Rack and Pinion full 4" exhaust with dynomax race bullets 650hp 585ft-lbs(crank)on 89 octane and no intercooler, 9.5psi-12 degrees timing 11.42@119-7psi |
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That Mondello kit for diesel conversion I believe brings that block to something like a 440ci and is pretty much bomb proof. I've also heard of round track guys using the it as a 350 ci motor that will take all the abuse thrown at it.
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87 TurboT--GT6131, 60lb injectors, Precision sl intercooler, Hooker cat back exhaust, THDP, home made Big Mouth, pp, 62mm tb, adj fr, Walbro 340/hotwire, AlkyControl kit, Turbo Tweak 93+alky chip, HR lower control arms, air bags, ATR bar, Powerlogger/wideband best et 11.79@113.86 http://s64.photobucket.com/albums/h1...secondpass.flv |
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im trying to find one
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I'm not sure which version of the block is the better one but I know one style is overall better for the conversion. Good luck with your project. It may be alittle expensive and heavy but it would be practiacally indestructable.
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87 TurboT--GT6131, 60lb injectors, Precision sl intercooler, Hooker cat back exhaust, THDP, home made Big Mouth, pp, 62mm tb, adj fr, Walbro 340/hotwire, AlkyControl kit, Turbo Tweak 93+alky chip, HR lower control arms, air bags, ATR bar, Powerlogger/wideband best et 11.79@113.86 http://s64.photobucket.com/albums/h1...secondpass.flv |
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