Doing a LSx turbo swap

ITSNOTAGN · #1 (**permalink**) November 8th, 2006, 01:43 AM

Wow i am so glad this section is up. i (like alot of us) have been hiding out at turbomustangs for a long time. I just started this and got my motor about a month ago. been working on accesory placement and stuff before i got carried away. anyway i dont have any pics yet, think im going to re-do my motor mounts this weekend as they are about 1/4 inch too wide, might just try to tweak them a bit. also if you are using a truck engine, its really easy to get the accesories bolted up, ill post pics showing this later.
6.0L LQ4, 9.4:1 compression
Lunati 224/224 112 .560 lift. had it from previous build
Moly pushrods
headers by me, have everything just need get placement done first, 1 3/4 primaries and 3" collectors
Pro Products Typhoon intake
60# mototrons
HP Tuners 2-bar speed density
Borg Warner S400 turbo, 77mm
Powerstroke Intercooler
4 or 5" downpipe, whatever fits.
4L80E
looking at 500-600whp on pump gas with little drama. going to keep it at 10# or less until i opt for rod bolts and stuff. dont think i will have too much of a problem doing that. after running this combo through dyno-sim alot this cam is actually a pretty good turbo cam. also i had this in my GTO, and with the extra 17ci of the 6.0 i think it will fit just right. also with the better heads it should do 340whp N/a, did 363whp in my GTO.
Comments?? Suggestions?? post em
Gary

John Wilde · #2 (**permalink**) November 8th, 2006, 02:12 AM

I can't wait for updates, I am really excited about your project.
Please dont forget the picutres!

Dusty Bradford · #3 (**permalink**) November 8th, 2006, 03:22 AM

Have you tried swapping the factory manifolds around backwards so the collectors face towards the front of the car and point down? I was thinking you can do this with the truck accessories without any problems. A friend has put an LS1 into a Mustang coupe and used the factory manifolds turned backwards but did have to move the alternator to the head. These manifolds are great and would save you from having to build a set of headers.

Just FYI...if you have trouble doing the 3 inch crossover just stick with a 2.5....they are usually much easier to work with when you make the transition to the turbo flange. No matter what you read on the net 2.5 is more than enough crossover for what you are doing. Turbo motors make 2000hp with 2.5crossovers. I'm sticking with a 2.5 crossover on my new set-up and the heads and headers will support 2000.

johnplogii · #4 (**permalink**) November 8th, 2006, 09:30 AM

What is the difference between the ls- & the truck block? I heard the ls motors have 6 bolt mains. I have a line on an 04 silverado motor that was burnt but all I would have to do is pull it.

Thanks

Kevin87TurboT · #5 (**permalink**) November 8th, 2006, 10:53 AM

Itsnotagn,
I've got a similar project. It's an 86 T-type that I'm installing a 6.0L stroker into. Originally the plans were to do a stock crank/stock inch 6.0L with a 76 mm turbo. Now it's going to be a 408/88 mm. I'm going to do what Dusty suggested...use truck manifolds turned around backwards. Good luck with your hot rod! (and I'd love to see some pics)
Kevin

ITSNOTAGN · #6 (**permalink**) November 8th, 2006, 01:43 PM

i tried with the truck manifolds, the collectors sit on the frame and the drivers side points right at the steering box. i can use them pointing up, but to me the looks are important as well and i dont think the headers will be that difficult. The way it sits, im not using a/c, i can fit the passenger side collector between the engine and frame, giving me lots of room for the downpipe to sit nice and low. the drivers side i need to go with an upswept design though to go over the steering box.
Also the truck blocks are iron and are very very strong. they are good structurally to around 2000 hp.
Gary

ITSNOTAGN · #7 (**permalink**) November 12th, 2006, 07:40 PM

so i got some pics today. got the motor positioned where i want it, need to start making some new mounts this week. have to space up the temporary crossmember i made to get the trans up in the tunnel a little more, but its pretty close to right on. i ended up with about 5.25" from the top of the sway bar to the crank centerline, which i beleive is .5" higher than a stock SBC. as you can see there is plenty of room in there, the only mod to the truck pan is to remove about 2-2.25" from the bottom and weld it back together. and i also held up the truck manifolds to give you an idea of possiblities.
There is also pictures of how i modified the truck accesory mount and how easy it is to mount up the PS pump. comment!
Gary

ITSNOTAGN · #8 (**permalink**) November 12th, 2006, 07:45 PM

John Wilde · #9 (**permalink**) November 13th, 2006, 12:12 PM

Looking good!

ITSNOTAGN · #10 (**permalink**) January 23rd, 2007, 07:04 PM

well its been awhile, so heres some progress. I got all my wiring figured out and stuck into the factory fuseblock. so far everything works and tonight i fired it for the first time. It will not run as i have to go upload my new tune into the PCM now and i dont have all the holes in the intake plugged yet. Aside from that, I cannot get my fuel fittings to stop leaking, so i may just TIG everything in place, havent decided yet. anyway heres pics of the engine while i was finishing the wiring harness, and my turbo, B-W S475.
Gary

ITSNOTAGN · #11 (**permalink**) January 23rd, 2007, 07:09 PM

blestx4 · #12 (**permalink**) February 25th, 2007, 02:17 PM

and pics with those updates please!!

ITSNOTAGN · #13 (**permalink**) February 26th, 2007, 04:28 PM

Yeah, its definately been awhile. its been cold and i decided to shutthe shop down for a month or so cause i dont want to pay a $500 heat bill. Have been down there a bit lately but mostly thinking about what i want to do. I decided i am going to make new mounts again cause i dont really like the way the engine is sitting in there, i wanted it as far back as possible, but its only 1/2" from the firewall. think ill move it ahead to about 1" clearence, should make the 4l80 fit better as well. The way it looks this weekend i should get the mounts done and a trans crossmember. also if i have time i will start on the passenger side header. other then that i need to order a few fittings and the hoses for the trans cooler lines, measure up a driveshaft and its ready to go. Last month i got it all wired in and made some redneck fuel stuff, and i did get it to fire off for about 10 seconds, and everything seemed to work fine, the computer didnt see anything out of whack. The core support is cut, i didnt do that good of a job on it, but it will work for now. I cut it flush with the headlights and knocked 2 rows off the intercooler, this way it is up tight against the radiator and everything fits alot better. also i got the factory tune pulled out of the ECM and make the adjustments for the injectors and updated to a 2 bar speed density system. anyway ill try to get pics this week of it in the car, and next week if i get that stuff done. The only other thing is im debating on getting a manual rack right away or waiting.
Gary

ITSNOTAGN · #14 (**permalink**) March 5th, 2007, 10:26 AM

spent the weekend working on my car, got alot accomplished. first off i have both headers tacked up, put a bunch of holes in em with the welder, ah well. also made up a turbo bracket to hang that big heavy bastard. I can bounce the front of the car without it moving so it should be strong enough. Also made up some motor mounts and a trans crossmember. tonight i plan on getting the y-pipe taked up, hopefully get the downpipe done this week also.
Gary

ITSNOTAGN · #15 (**permalink**) March 5th, 2007, 10:27 AM

Louie L. · #16 (**permalink**) March 5th, 2007, 01:48 PM

Nice work. Where did you get the tubing and colectors from ? Is that mild steel ?

ITSNOTAGN · #17 (**permalink**) March 8th, 2007, 10:50 AM

i got the stuff from schoenfeld, was 120$ for all of it and i have alot left. and yes it is mild steel. And as a consequence of wanting to do it myself, i spent 2 days learning to TIG this week,
(PITA) and i practiced on the pass side header as it will be covered by the downpipe anyway. needless to say my first welds arent that good, but the drivers header looks pretty nice. But, i would rather have stuff look so-so but say i did it myself then pay for it to be done. I take alot of pride in what i do, even if it isnt the best.
Gary

Louie L. · #18 (**permalink**) March 8th, 2007, 11:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ITSNOTAGN

i got the stuff from schoenfeld, was 120$ for all of it and i have alot left. and yes it is mild steel. And as a consequence of wanting to do it myself, i spent 2 days learning to TIG this week,
(PITA) and i practiced on the pass side header as it will be covered by the downpipe anyway. needless to say my first welds arent that good, but the drivers header looks pretty nice. But, i would rather have stuff look so-so but say i did it myself then pay for it to be done. I take alot of pride in what i do, even if it isnt the best.
Gary

Im with ya on the DIY. Im the same way. I rather do it myself even if its not "show quality" . I purchased my own TIG last year and been making my own exhausts and DP's since then.
Is it possible for you to PM me a list of the part you purchased ? Im ready to start this myself.