Ok........

[artrenee10]

I am looking to get into the TTA's hopefully within the next year or so, Ive done quite a bit of reading. But why does it seem the TTA is so much faster than a stock 1987 grand national especially since it has the same engine? I haven't made a decision yet but probably go in this direction. Is it because the engine came out two years later than the grand nash and that gm some more time to tweak some more power? Also, what kind of suspension is the TTA using? Stiffer springs? Torque bar? This seems to be an awfully quicker car for some reason. Can someone shed some light on this?
Thanks
Steve Chambers

[Quick6'n'-K.C.]

cause its a slippery car and better heads.

and yes the rear is setup with no upper control arms and uses a torque arm and panhard bar-

TTA's are cool, always seem to MPH about 2 more than your average GN/T

ive owned 2 in the past, i would suggest to you to purchase one with less than 40K and not been raced too much-

[artrenee10]

Thanks so what type of heads are we talking about? I take it not the prototype 8445's? This car is looking better and better by the day.
Thanks Again
Steve Chambers

[Quick6'n'-K.C.]

they have front wheel drive heads from the 86 LeSabre

ive heard they flow just a little more, but im not sure how much more-

the TTA is everything a turbo regal is, except it handles and stops

BW

[1badTTA]

I think another reason for the extra couple MPH in the 1/4 is the rear gearing. The TTA's used a 3.27 ratio vs the GN's 3.42. Combined with the aerodynamics and the fact that people have an easier time getting a descent 60', the 1/4 times and MPH are usually a little better.

The TTA's also have a higher compression ratio than the GN's. 9.0 vs 8.6 (acording to NHRA's stock clasifications). Also a 1.65:1 rocker ratio compared to 1.55:1 on the GN.

There are a ton of little things that add up that make the difference. I personally don't care why, I just like the fact that my car is as fast as it is.

i would suggest to you to purchase one with less than 40K and not been raced too much-

I agree, the lower mileage cars run a little more up front, but save you alot in the long run.

[Lee_Burough]

Go to http://www.89tta.com/ Read it twice over and you'll be even more excited

[GMC-YA]

artrenee10 - What your planning do with the car to dictates what kind of car you look to buy. Everyone says buy a low mileage car it cheaper, maybe maybe not. If you want a garage queen that isnt gonna get driven sure buy a low mileage cream puff. But if your gonna replace the turbo, cam, converter, intercooler, injectors, with aftermarket speed parts any way why not buy a project car? In my case thats what I did, and I'll tell you why. 1. My car is a festival car, so in the long run I feel that bringing the car back would be worth it. 2. Then interior of my car was in very good condition, the body was straight and never wrecked. 3. I like working on cars and I feel that thats half the fun of owning one.

I bought my car for 6500, which I feel was a decent price considering I havent seen one go for less than 10,000 in any condition for a while now. So to me that means I have at least 4grand to do what I want with on my car, and on top of that I wont feel guilty if I take a low milage car and start modifiying it. I will have to admit, if I didnt know people who could help me out with this and had to pay someone to do everthing, then yes buying a low milage car would be cheaper in the long run. So I guess that goes back to my original statement, what do you want to do with your car??

The TTA's also have a higher compression ratio than the GN's. 9.0 vs 8.6 (acording to NHRA's stock clasifications). Also a 1.65:1 rocker ratio compared to 1.55:1 on the GN.

www.89tta.com list the compression ratio lower than the gn at 8.0, probably why the tta runs more boost stock (16.5) than the gn (14 in think).

[Razor]

I think compression is the same. Cam is bigger becuase of the increased rocker ratio. Better IC, gearing, higher static fuel pressure made for a couple extra PSI rite out of the box..with a good driver on a prepped track high 12's are very possible. Actually theyre actual..I know of one.

As far as price vs condition...if you buy one thats cherry..you dont have to worry bout squat...price emblems, seats, rear spoiler, antenna, weather stripping, and stuff to make a modified one stock..the stock stuff is worth double what the aftermarket stuff sells for. Dont believe me.. stock emblems command a grand..owners kits are 500.00.. rear spoilers are 500.. a good paint job is 3K.. seats are 2k..carpet is 300.. I need not go on.

Owner maintenance is key and golden..I would rather buy one from someone that races and who changes the oil once a month, waxes, treats the leather, keeps it from knock retard and is on top of everything ..than one thats been driven with zero maintenance and is all stock with someone hammering the gas at 18 PSI cuase it runs GOOD... its all bout maintenance..

I still say its better to pay more up front for a better condition one..if your finances dictate you can.

Once the car has been repainted..it loses value.

[artrenee10]

Thanks Guys once again this board comes through Im leanin toward a low mileage one right now. I enjoy working on cars too but I am somewhat mechanically inclined (lazy ass) There is not a wealth of information on these though.
Thanks Again Everyone
Steve Chambers

[Rogue Leader]

Originally posted by Razor

Owner maintenance is key and golden..I would rather buy one from someone that races and who changes the oil once a month, waxes, treats the leather, keeps it from knock retard and is on top of everything ..than one thats been driven with zero maintenance and is all stock with someone hammering the gas at 18 PSI cuase it runs GOOD... its all bout maintenance..

I wish i had people with the same mentality calling about my car!! Your description there describes me and m maintenence on my TTA... but I get "Oh its been raced alot... oh you beat on it.... oh you abused it".

Luckily Im 99% sure I have a deal sealed on my car being sold... I already got the deposit

[scauffiel]

Originally posted by Rogue Leader
I wish i had people with the same mentality calling about my car!! Your description there describes me and m maintenence on my TTA... but I get "Oh its been raced alot... oh you beat on it.... oh you abused it".

Luckily Im 99% sure I have a deal sealed on my car being sold... I already got the deposit

Yeah, I wouldn't worry about that at all. Might as well, go ahead and call it 100% sure...

Steve

I agree the cost up front for a lower mile car is the way to go. Although I have had awesome luck with mine (Now at 106K) Its no where near a show car. It has dings and scratches and has surface rust on the bottom of the floors. The doors sag, the T-tops leak..

The cost to fix everything adds up to more than what you would pay for a nice one. So if you buy one that needs to be fixed up and pour all the money into to be nice which would you rather have in the end?

The 30K Mile Nice car or the 100K mile nice car? Tough Choice eh?

[Rogue Leader]

Originally posted by scauffiel
Yeah, I wouldn't worry about that at all. Might as well, go ahead and call it 100% sure...

Steve

Its going to a GOOD home

[Captain Mark]

Originally posted by Rogue Leader
I wish i had people with the same mentality calling about my car!! Your description there describes me and m maintenence on my TTA... but I get "Oh its been raced alot... oh you beat on it.... oh you abused it".

Luckily Im 99% sure I have a deal sealed on my car being sold... I already got the deposit

Congrats on the sale, I know you have been trying for a while. Bet you miss it though.

[Rogue Leader]

Originally posted by Captain Mark
Congrats on the sale, I know you have been trying for a while. Bet you miss it though.

Thanks man! Its actually still in my driveway, delivering saturday. But I already do miss it! The final drive will be a nice road trip tho...

[1badTTA]

NHRA's Blueprint specs

I would have to give NHRA a little more credit than www.89tta.com since Russ only posted what was published. Imagine running in a stock class and having your engine torn down only to find out you have higher compression than you thought. I really doubt that NHRA would list the wrong specs as it would create a world of confusion in the racing classes.

If anybody can prove NHRA has the incorrect specs, I am sure they would like to know about it.

[turbov6joe]

I've said it before and I'll say it 100 times over again, the TTA's are everything the TR's should have been. I sold a GN that I owned and cared for greatly to purchase a TTA from someone I know took good care of it. I also tossed around the high vs low milage mile idea and deiced that a cherry good foundation would be the way to go. I owned my GN since 1990 and bought a cherry original owner car to build on....and build on I did When I finally got it running in the 10's I sold it only to start the process all over again...half the fun as far as I'm concerned! The low milage TTA's fetch a good penny, the more rarer the TTA, add some serious ducks onto that as well. I hate leather so a cloth car was my goal, just so happens I knew a guy (Bryan W.) that had just wanted I wanted and he parted with it...thanks B! Anyhow, it doesn't take much to make them VERY fast, fast enough to get booted off your local NHRA track for running without a bar (trust me I know) Look long, look hard, they're out there sitting in some dude's garage collecting dust. So far my car has served me well, no problems thus far. If I had my druthers, I'd find a hardtop/cloth car and call it good, but that's some BIG $$$ there.

[fly89gta]

Originally posted by scauffiel
Yeah, I wouldn't worry about that at all. Might as well, go ahead and call it 100% sure...

Steve

Congrats Steve, enjoy it

[fly89gta]

9.0:1 CR? That's a first I'm hearing of that, every article, every publication besides that one states its 8.0:1...odd....