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Bsd PCV will cuase excess pressure to build up and shoot through the factory tube that goes between the drivers side VC and the turbo inlet.
Suggest you put a rubber plug on the inlet and a small KN breather on the drivers VC. Then check again..if problem continues, seal in turbo has gone bad. Cars with low miles have a lot of seal issues from sitting...you would be suprised to see rust in your brake fluid..and do a rear end lube change. My car at 15k needed a spatula to get the fluid out of the rear just two years ago. PCV use only AC Delco.. HTH Cheers, btw that scan tool ordered yet?
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89 TTA Stock appearing 10.550 at 132.22 1.539 60ft 3850 race weight w/driver Always on 93 octane www.alkycontrol.com 727-570-9999 |
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Here's a stupid Q. Where is the PCV on this monster? I have one already, just haven't looked too hard to find it on the car yet.
And yes, DirectScan. I will look into plugging that inlet. Where can I find a good KN breather? I also noticed a small crush on the plastic duct just before the flex hose. I got a 3in piece of exhaust to slide into it. Just need it cut down to size. My Sawzall wouldn't cut it (even with a new metal blade). And, is there anywhere else to get a 3in polished inlet tube besides RKKustom? Haven't gotten an answer when I call the Ph# listed. Would really like to get one with a KN air filter to replace the crappy plastic and flex ducts. Thanks a million.
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89 TTA #948 - 4k miles - Bone stock 94 ZR-1 #141 - Admiral Blue / Grey - 4k miles Full of questions, and have too many tools. Somebody stop me. |
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PCV... located passsenger side in the middle of the intake manifold. There is a hose that goes from it to the top of the throttle body.
Grumpy(aka Dan Mcdonald) sells the inlet pipes made out of aluminum. Do a search for his name... Cheap bresther is a little plastic one that autozone sells..fits rite into the little 90 degree rubber elbow. Or get the KN.. I have a KN on my car..but got it two years ago..no part number on it. Its one inch tall with like a 1/2 inch tube on it. Chrome top.
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89 TTA Stock appearing 10.550 at 132.22 1.539 60ft 3850 race weight w/driver Always on 93 octane www.alkycontrol.com 727-570-9999 |
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As far as the oil in the intercooler and uppipe and throttlebody, a small amount collecting there over time is somewhat normal. The reason that the spring cleaning is called spring cleaning is because you should do it at least once a year. Any turbo will leak a very small amount of oil into the intake and over time, it will coat the inside of the intercooler and reduce its efficiency dratsically.
As mentioned in another post, your car may only have 4,000 miles, but it is also 14 years old and alot of things happen to these cars just sitting. When you get it running pretty good, see how it pulls right before 5K rpm. I would be willing to bet you will be changing valve springs since the engine was probably not started for a couple years at a time and the same valves were open for extended periods of time. Congrats on the car and you have come to the right place to get it running the way it should. Stick around and it will be running 12's before you know it with mostly stock parts to boot. Gotta love these cars ![]()
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'89 TTA #332 12.973@111.45 (on BFG Radial TA's) stock injectors, turbo, intercooler, and downpipe. Hotwired WB340, RJC power plate, ProPain, usual free/cheap mods. |
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Thanks y'all.
Here's a good question. I can see the turbo seals going bad, as well as the need to replace valve springs and possibly injector(s). Lets say I will need to do all or some. I'd rather not use stock parts since that would be a good point of upgrade for perf. reasons. I don't want to and won't be 'building' a stage motor. But, I can see (maybe) going to a bigger/better turbo and consequently larger injectors. I DO plan on going to a walbro w/hotwire kit as well as a THDP, exhaust and SFC's (all at once, in 2 weeks). What kind of turbo and injectors should I prepare myself for? And since I very well may need springs, is there an upgrade I should shoot for since I'm replacing them anyway? Thanks again. I appreciate all your detailed explainations since I am a newbie to turbo cars and cars that sat for 14 years.
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89 TTA #948 - 4k miles - Bone stock 94 ZR-1 #141 - Admiral Blue / Grey - 4k miles Full of questions, and have too many tools. Somebody stop me. |
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I you are going to replace the turbo, I would recommend either a TA49 or TE44. The TA49 looks stock and the TE44 doesn't, but they are almost the same turbo as far as spool and flow. They both work pretty good on a nearly stock car.
As far as injectors go, there are alot of choices and it all depends on how fast you plan to go. If you want to do a lot of racing and plan on more upgrades in the future, go with the MSD 50's or Hi-z 57's and you won't have to buy injectors twice. If you are just going to replace your injectors due to yours not working right, you could go with some used 009's or red stripes that someone is selling cheap because they are going with 50#ers or higher. As far as the springs go, do a search and make your own decision since there is alot of contraversy as t ospring pressure. And to answer your question, nobody installs stock replacement springs, they are all upgrades. HTH
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'89 TTA #332 12.973@111.45 (on BFG Radial TA's) stock injectors, turbo, intercooler, and downpipe. Hotwired WB340, RJC power plate, ProPain, usual free/cheap mods. |
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Since it seems everybody has gone to a K&N,would anybody like to sell the top of their air cleaner box to a fellow TTA owner? I bought my 38,000 mile TTA with a K&N and would like to put it back to stock for car shows. I have the bottom, as I am told it is the same as the GN bottom. The top takes in air from the fender, I am told. Thanks everyone!
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