What Chip to get? And KR Problem

[Jas89TTA]

Ok, I'm getting kr on my scan master on 93 octane gas with low boost. I went to the local track and mix 3 gallons of 110 octane with about 2 gallons of 93 octane and got 0 knock going down the track. I have a Jay Carter 93 street chip for my car for the 009 injectors. Should I look at getting a diffenent chip? If so which one? I can't seem to get rid of the kr and was wondering if the chip I have could be the problem. I had some lifter noise on the RH bank so I installed a new camshaft, lifters,rocker arms and springs I also installed a new timing chain and gears along with the chain damper. (I thought that was my problem as my chain was very loose) I've checked all the vacum hoses for leaks and did not find any, I've installed a new EGR valve and the solnoid for the EGR valve and still get kr. I also did a compression check and all cylinders were between 115-125. Any ideas on what I should check? Also what should my BL number be at idle? I had the fuel pressure at 42#'s and it would be in the 90's I cranked it up to 48#'s now it mainly stays above 100 at idle. Was just wondering if it was running lean when under boost and causing the KR, The BL's under boost are in the upper 130's to 140's. Thanks, Jason

[Kyle F]

I am not familiar with your chip, you might want to look into how much timing it is running at WOT. Check yout TPS and make sure it is reading proper WOT voltage when you are at it. If not your chip might not be pulling the proper timing.
Another thing to check is that your DP is not hitting the frame rail(but since better gas gave you no knock I doubt this is the case). It sounds like you might just have too much timing for your set up. I also do not have experience with tunign with 009's right now either. I noticed that you did not list what fuel pump you are runnign or if it is hot wired or not. Your fuel pump might just not be able to keep up with the fuel demands with 93 octane gas. Might want to consider picking up a hto wire kit(which I think you already have) if you dont have it and see if that helps.

Just some thougths

[Jas89TTA]

I think the timing is at 18 deg, The TPS is set at .46 at idle and gose to 4.63 on WOT. On the fuel pump according to the guy I bought it from he installed a high volume pump, On the hot wire I think it's done, There's a wire connected to the back of my altanator with a inline fuse. When I diconnected it the car would not start (like no fuel) conected it back and it started, Is this the hot wire for the fuel pump? I don't think it's 'the down pipe I can here the KR (pinging) when it's above 8 or 9 on the scanmaster. Thanks, Jason

[Kyle F]

OK.. check your feul pressure at WOT... make sure it steps 1Psi per lb of boost. Some high Volume pumps are nto high pressure. It might not be able to keep up with your demands. I usually use a regular gage and hold it in place against the windshield with the wiper arm so I can see whats up without runnign a fuel line into the car.
Sounds liek you hae the Hotwire kit

[Lee_Burough]

I had about the same amount of knock retard you report. XZylene in the tank cured the KR.

Then, I retorqued the knock sensor (to 14 ft pounds of torque) and had no more knock retard on 93 octane.

You might find some easy reading about knock and causes of knock here: http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/PICS/deto...etonation.html

Good luck and happy hunting

[Jas89TTA]

I've checked my fuel pressure and it's rises about 1 psi with 1 pound of boost. I'll have to check the knock sensor to see what it's torqued at and make sure it's not loose. What is XZylene and where can I find some? Do you just add it to the gas tank? Thanks, Jason

[Pace 1989]

I have the 009's and Joe Lubrant's chip in my tta as well, and have not had any issues w/knock. I'd check the knock sensor, I think it's 14lbs/ft torque, make sure it's not too tight or it will sense too much.
My chip says 20* timing right on the chip, you might want to pull the ecm and see if it's written on yours, but I don't think Joe would put too much timing based on your needs. He's forgotten more about these cars than I'll ever know.

Ken TTA1426

[Kyle F]

Yup, I agree, if you have checked all the easy things and everythign is operating properly then the torque on the sensor could be wrong. Or, you could have a faulty knock sensor.

[Lee_Burough]

Look in your yellow pages under "solvents." Zylene is a paint thinner and is an ingredient of ordinary gasoline. It raises octane without lead.

Do a search for Zylene and see what pops up, one boardmember took the trouble to get you a discount at a certain paint store (I don't remember the name), otherwise Sherwin Williams gets $22-$28 for five gallons. You mix 3 ounces of lubricant with each gallon and put it in your tank. Lubricants include marvel mystery oil and ATF.

Do a search and you'll see a lot of info. Different paint stores have their own spelling for Zylene, so, don't be baffled by that.

[Lee_Burough]

What voltage does your O2 sensor show when you have the knock retard?

What is your MAF reading when you have knock retard?

Have you checked for exhaust leaks (cracks) in your headers and turbo plumbing?

My crossover tube from the driver's side header was actually in CONTACT with the oil pan

[Razor]

BLM's should be ideally 128 at idle. More or less indiactes somewhat of a fuel problem. The farther away the more the problem. Now BLM's at 90-100 says the ecm thinks your rich and is pulling out fuel to lean it out. Raising FP only makes matters worse. Your problem can be a bad MAF sensor.Drop your FP to 40 and see what happens to the BLM's. Also if the car is too rich..too much fuel it could also make the knock sensor fire.

Base fuel pressure , if your chip is rite should be between 37-45 usually/typically. And 48 at idle is way high to try and compensate for a problem. Your knock comes from inproper fueling.

Do you have access to a direct scan to record the event? If O2's are in the lower 800's and this happens, try timing reduction. Else try another chip.

Julio

[Jas89TTA]

Well, I turned the FP down and at idle the BL numbers are right at 126, Now when I give it gas the numbers rise to in the high 140's to 150's. My O'2 readings when I start getting knock is low 800's to high 700's, I had it checked for exhaust leaks about a month ago and there were none. I'll have to check my MAF readings as I did not look at them yet, What should they be? One thing I did notice is that when I was at 60 MPH and slowly accel my knock retard would increase on the scanmaster, But if I pushed it in about 1/4 of the way it did not show any KR. I guess I'll check into getting another chip done, Anyone have any suggestions on who I should go with? This KR problem is driving me crazy I'm begining to wonder If I'll ever figure it out Thanks, Jason

[Lee_Burough]

Your chip is suspect because you don't really know what you have. At some point, you'll need to nail that down and be sure to start from a known point in your search for the cause of the knock.

In between then and now, I'd go through the information at that knock link above.

O2 voltage isn't that rich....MAF readings could be anywhere, but may serve you to know how much air is going through the engine when the knock occurs.

Did you say anything about error codes?

Don't forget the basics like plugs, wires, coil, MAF, all those goodies. Do you have a TR friend that you could borrow a known good MAF, coil and ignition from?

Good luck

[Razor]

Your BLM's are acting normally.

I would suspect a problem in the timing tables of your chip or a bad MAF sensor.