Best Subframe Connectors for TTA

BradWE4 · #1 (**permalink**) May 28th, 2002, 01:09 PM

I am trying to stiffen up my car to eliminate all of the creeks and squeeks, (as many as possible). I was wondering if the boltons were any good or if the weldin's were the only way to go. I want a kit where there is no modification to the floor board.

#2 (**permalink**) May 28th, 2002, 01:14 PM

Weld ins are the only way to go. Get a set of Global West Subframes, They even Clear the THDP.

RobR · #3 (**permalink**) May 28th, 2002, 03:27 PM

Ya, what Mike said

Razor · #4 (**permalink**) May 28th, 2002, 07:47 PM

South Side Machines here but wont clear THDP without mods.

#5 (**permalink**) May 28th, 2002, 08:09 PM

I should take my own advice and get some subframes...

Someone said the car will fall apart if you run under 1.8 60fts.. Hmm I guess thats not true

TurboTA3.8 · #6 (**permalink**) May 28th, 2002, 10:31 PM

kenny brown makes a very nice set ones to the g-load points

george

RobR · #7 (**permalink**) May 29th, 2002, 09:24 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by TTA89
I should take my own advice and get some subframes...

Someone said the car will fall apart if you run under 1.8 60fts.. Hmm I guess thats not true

Mike, have you noticed any cracks in the quarter/roof seam? I starting getting paint cracks in mine. This was after a summer of 1.6/1.7 launches. Just curious if you saw anything.

BradWE4 · #8 (**permalink**) May 29th, 2002, 12:02 PM

Where to buy global west subframe connectors?

RobR · #9 (**permalink**) May 29th, 2002, 12:06 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by BradWE4
Where to buy global west subframe connectors?

I bought mine from Thunder Racing http://www.thunderracing.com

#10 (**permalink**) May 29th, 2002, 12:17 PM

I havent really looked to close, nothing that I remember. Ill take a look in the next couple of days.

http://www.globalwest.net/

Hi-psi · #11 (**permalink**) May 29th, 2002, 08:00 PM

I noticed a little wave in the quarter/roof area after about a year of 1.60 60fts.

I went with SouthSide Machine connectors.

As said,...they do have to be modified to clear the TH DP.

TurboTA3.8 · #12 (**permalink**) May 29th, 2002, 10:23 PM

i just looked at those global west subframes they looked not as sturdy as the kenny brown subframes

george

Razor · #13 (**permalink**) June 4th, 2002, 08:47 PM

I have SSM and a THDP and my subframes didnt get modded..my THDP did

Just get it shortened rite where it bends under the car,A shop with a plasma cutter and a tig can do it in a jiffy.

Razor · #14 (**permalink**) June 4th, 2002, 08:49 PM

And the SSM connectors was the very first mod on my car.Still had the factory aircleaner and chip when the frame connectors went on....

Cuase I didnt want any wavy panels

Gokou · #15 (**permalink**) June 5th, 2002, 11:25 PM

Mr. UPS just dropped off my set of Global West subframe connectors. They're made from ~1.25" diameter chromoly tubing, .125" thick. Solid pieces even if they look wimpy in pictures. They're rather beefy, especially considering the method you install them-- You weld them to the front pad near where the front fender bolts to the body, then the rear of the body by the trailing arm, then the key to their strength-- you stitch weld them to the rocker panel lips the entire length of the car. They tuck up and out of sight-- I held one up under the car and you'd never notice them unless you were on the ground looking up at them.

I'll probably install them next weekend, I won't have the time this weekend. There's a fair amount of welding involved, but it'll definately be worth it. They clear a THDP too

I got them from John's Performance BTW.

UR50SLO · #16 (**permalink**) June 6th, 2002, 09:05 AM

We've been using the SSM connectors/lift bars for a long time.
Over the years of using them we've found what works and what does not. The connectors work excellent. They fit tight and are not very noticeable.
The complete system works but you have to take the "stock" lower controll arms out. The stock lower controll arms are much shorter than the ssm bars. When both are hooked up they are in a bind causing the system to hold it's self up.

When we eliminated the lower controll arms it started working correctly. Then we moved the shocks from the front of the axel to the back, then we removed the stock springs and installed coil overs(QA1) that seems to be the final and best setup we've done. Very tunable with damping and ride hight and spring tension.
With a cold day at Stanton we launched with 3lbs of boost went 1.51 60' with out breaking a sweat. We have not even played with the settings yet! We did install a 10pt cage which made the car just that more ridged.
Pic's avlb to any one interested in duplicating this setup.
Stock gas tank will need to be removed!
Power Concepts, Inc.
~Scott

TT/Ameasap · #17 (**permalink**) July 4th, 2002, 12:02 PM

I just got my global west subframes and it doesnt seem to clear my cat.

I think i might have to hack it out. anybody else have this same problem with the cat?

TIA
Bo

Razor · #18 (**permalink**) July 4th, 2002, 01:29 PM

What cat

You probably mean the flex connector..Nothing a six pack of beer and a torch cant accommodate

TT/Ameasap · #19 (**permalink**) July 4th, 2002, 02:20 PM

Heck, I thought cats have come a long way since the early 80's (my bad)Wtf does this thing do? It is certianly in my way!

Gokou · #20 (**permalink**) July 4th, 2002, 05:25 PM

The cat is WAY out of the way of the subframe connectors... I think Razor is right. I haven't welded my GW subframes up yet but the passenger side does get REALLY close to the braided flex coupling in the downpipe. Heck, I'll have to remove the lower portion of the factory downpipe to get the welding torch in there. You can always section the downpipe in the straight section before it bends to the flex coupling and remove about an inch then weld it back together... that'll give you plenty of room.

Razor · #21 (**permalink**) July 5th, 2002, 06:48 AM

Gokou,
You must of been under my car looking.Thats how I got my SSM's subframes to fit with the terry houston DP