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torque arm
You have to use a torque arm. IT KEEPS YOUR REAR FROM TWISTING. What I mean is without it, your rear (where it is connected to the driveshaft) would just rotate upward into the floor. You could put ladder bars on and ulimate it, but the torque arm set-up is so much more streetable and easier to set up than ladder bars.
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The B.S. stops when the tree drops! |
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Have you seen the $ for the Spohn engineering torque arm/cross member
? But, it looks like a nice pice of equipment. Has been a nice dust collector in my garage for the past 6 months!!
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-Eric '87 Astroroof GNX Clone - 154k miles, STOCK engine (minus timing set & springs) Brian Hofer Tranny, Big Mouth CAI, Trans+, LS1 MAF, 3.5" MAF Pipe, PT61, PTE FMIC, 60/65# inj., TurboTweak Chip, Dual Nozzle PAC Alky, 70mm TB & Plenum, RJC Plate & Pullies, THDP, Hotwired Walbro, Adj. FP Reg, Scanmaster, Tubular Rear Control Arms, ATR Rear Bar, LPW Rear Girdle, Hurst Line Lock; 1.736(60') 7.58@92(1/8th) 11.83@115 w/ 91 oct. & ALKY, Drag Radials and a 7300 D/A. 422RWHP/502RWTQ '01 Vette - 6-speed, Tune, Vortex Intake, AR Headers, B&B PRTs, 332RWHP/343RWTQ - Before Headers '81 El Camino - The Parts Hauler, 5.7 TPI, 700-4R, GN 10 bolt, Choo Choo front end, 17" TTII's
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Re: torque arm
Quote:
problem is that once you set pinion angle, you have to live with it since there is welding involved
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89 IROC-Z Twin Turbos F.A.S.T. GOT BOOST? |
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